[tunes]

Have you auditioned the LCD-4, perhaps worth a try..? If your looking for warm-ish sound, they work very well with Dave.

As regard to power conditioning, I found greater difference with a speaker set up, in fact when I removed my power conditioning it was so bad I gave up...!
With a headphone setup direct from Dave, try some Supra mains shielded mains cable. Always try before you buy and make your own decision.

I do not have the demo Blu2 yet so unable advise on power supply, but for me speaker System (power first) as the result with Dave (alone) was conclusive IMO, headphone not so sure..?

Can anyone advise about interference between DAVE and wi ROUTER/cable modem/WiFi transmitter? How far away should these kinds of gear be from DAVE? I have an Aurender that will be my digital music server and it needs to be connected to a WiFi Apple Extreme. Also have a large LED TV and FIOS modem near by. I just put in a dedicated AC line and don’t want to worry about wireless interference with my DAVE. Any help here appreciated.

 

[Clive101]

Can anyone advise about interference between DAVE and wi ROUTER/cable modem/WiFi transmitter? How far away should these kinds of gear be from DAVE? I have an Aurender that will be my digital music server and it needs to be connected to a WiFi Apple Extreme. Also have a large LED TV and FIOS modem near by.I just put in a dedicated AC line and don’t want to worry about wireless interference with my DAVE. Any help here appreciated.

I found network noise an issue (I have a very large network) I have a Melco (USB direct to Dave) which allows playback (from the front panel) without connection to a network.

The SQ difference without the network attached is better buy a large margin, lower noise.

I now use a Draytek AP-902 to connect to the network when I need to control Melco by Tablet via an app.

( http://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigorap-902 )

I had listen (quick test) with and without the AP-902, sounded similar in SQ, when I have time, I could do more of a detailed valuation on SQ.

I also wonder if the wireless signal affects the HiFi but I lowered the signal power output, again untested.

 

[miketlse]

I’ve used active speakers for many years, and I think that is a very interesting idea. Although you couldn’t sync the mojos, I am sure the effects of any minute lack of sync would be as nothing compared to the gross timing errors introduced by passive crossovers. But you would need a very good digital crossover before the mojos. Who knows, maybe one day in the future there will be multi-channel Chord DACS/amps with configurable crossovers that you connect straight to your drive units for a fully active system.

Thanks for your encouraging words. I came to the same conclusion that a good digital output board would be needed - there are plenty of 5.1 files available, and in theory it should be possible to write code to divide these into 3 * stereo usb streams, but then you would need to output all 3 streams in sync to the Mojos, and I was not convinced that a normal computer motherboard would be up to the job. So this thought experiment was placed on the back burner, and forgotten about.

 

[tunes]

I found network noise an issue (I have a very large network) I have a Melco (USB direct to Dave) which allows playback (from the front panel) without connection to a network.

The SQ difference without the network attached is better buy a large margin, lower noise.

I now use a Draytek AP-902 to connect to the network when I need to control Melco by Tablet via an app.

( http://www.draytek.co.uk/products/business/vigorap-902 )

I had listen (quick test) with and without the AP-902, sounded similar in SQ, when I have time, I could do more of a detailed valuation on SQ.

I also wonder if the wireless signal affects the HiFi but I lowered the signal power output, again untested.

 

[tunes]

Not sure I can move my Fios modem and apple WiFi device out of the listening room as the TV is there and my music server needs to be directly connected to the network to allow use of iPad to control server. If I move DAVE away from these sources what distance would be optimal?

 

[AndrewOld]

Thanks for your encouraging words. I came to the same conclusion that a good digital output board would be needed - there are plenty of 5.1 files available, and in theory it should be possible to write code to divide these into 3 * stereo usb streams, but then you would need to output all 3 streams in sync to the Mojos, and I was not convinced that a normal computer motherboard would be up to the job. So this thought experiment was placed on the back burner, and forgotten about.

Well I guess the ideal for me would be for Rob Watts code to do the crossover, with the requisite amount of taps, otherwise you run the risk of losing information. Not sure about 3 USB streams .. tricky to sync .. maybe spdif would be better .. I think there are people using J River to make active crossovers maybe check their forum out.. I am not smart enough to know how it should best be done, but since our man is working on digital power amplifiers there’s no reason you couldn’t have a set of them, bandwidth restricted with the appropriate crossover slopes, driving speakers actively. You’ll need a gold mine in your garden to affford it though. Active speakers seem to me to be inherently more sensible; it just has to be better to couple an amplifier directly to a drive unit rather than try and get power through a mass of inductors, capacitors and resistors. Companies like Linn, who make active loudspeakers, are digitally correcting for individual drive unit variations - makes sense to me.

 

[dmance]

Thanks for your encouraging words. I came to the same conclusion that a good digital output board would be needed - there are plenty of 5.1 files available, and in theory it should be possible to write code to divide these into 3 * stereo usb streams, but then you would need to output all 3 streams in sync to the Mojos, and I was not convinced that a normal computer motherboard would be up to the job. So this thought experiment was placed on the back burner, and forgotten about.

RME produces an affordable DIGIFACE USB product that splits a single USB into four TOSLINK outputs ...all in sync. Link here. EDIT: DOES NOT SUPPORT USB OUTPUT - Only TOSLINK routing - (My Bad)

 

[miketlse]

RME produces an affordable DIGIFACE USB product that splits a single USB into four TOSLINK outputs ...all in sync. Link here. EDIT: DOES NOT SUPPORT USB OUTPUT - Only TOSLINK routing - (My Bad)

Interesting. I wonder if anyone has tried connecting a raspberry pi, to an optical drive plus a ssd drive, and feeding the usb output to the digiface box, and outputting 3 optical streams to 3 dacs (eg mojos or daves)? Maybe this is already a secret project in Robs skunk works lab.

 

[seaice]

Hi all, I have Dave at home for several days and I would like to hear the best of it before my final buying decision. Which digital input is the best? I started my home session with AES/EBU.

 

[doraymon]

OT: waiting for the Dave to arrive I purchased the Uptone MMK to transform my Mac Mini to DC and bought an HDPlex 200W power supply to feed Mac Mini and WiFi bridge so to eliminate any noisy SMPS.
Yesterday I installed the kit, expected time 45min, actual time 2.5h... plus I managed to:
1) destroy the 5 pins of the IR sensor / front panel led light plug on the motherboard
2) forget to reinstall the screw which was holding the original SMPS in the Mac Mini
Final result is I slept 3h and I will probably have to reopen the Mac Mini, even though everything is working properly at the moment.

Actually I was thinking that one led/sensor less will only help to avoid useless noise in the Mac. I never used the IR sensor anyway and the front panel light is not a must.
Just sharing the frustration.

 

[Sonic77]

OT: waiting for the Dave to arrive I purchased the Uptone MMK to transform my Mac Mini to DC and bought an HDPlex 200W power supply to feed Mac Mini and WiFi bridge so to eliminate any noisy SMPS.
Yesterday I installed the kit, expected time 45min, actual time 2.5h... plus I managed to:
1) destroy the 5 pins of the IR sensor / front panel led light plug on the motherboard
2) forget to reinstall the screw which was holding the original SMPS in the Mac Mini
Final result is I slept 3h and I will probably have to reopen the Mac Mini, even though everything is working properly at the moment.

Actually I was thinking that one led/sensor less will only help to avoid useless noise in the Mac. I never used the IR sensor anyway and the front panel light is not a must.
Just sharing the frustration.

Did it make a difference sound wise?

 

[doraymon]

Did it make a difference sound wise?

Hard to tell without a DAC! I’m still waiting for my Dave and have sold all previous DACs to finance it!
I won’t be able to do a real A/B but I do t mind, it’s a matter of “Audio Hygiene”, I’m trying to remove any noisy SMPS, the only one left is the one powering the AQVOX AQ-SWITCH-SE, but they claim it’s not noisy.
I upgraded all stock power cords to Audioquest NRG-X3 for the HDPLEX and the two sPS-500 power supplies powering the network player and the headphone amp.
For the Dave I will try to use the Ice Age Audio Copper/Copper or Silver/Silver I already have, I’m not sure it’s worth investing more money in crazy expensive power cables.
Everything is plugged in into two mains filters/conditioners from Consonance (Opera Audio).

 

[Rob Watts]

This question is mainly for Rob Watts but also for anyone else who might know the intricacies :

I am looking at dave + dave + hugo 2 as a potential solution for active 3 way dsp speakers and am wondering how the clock sync would work between the 3 dacs considering they would all be fed from the same DSP board.

When I developed the DPLL I ensured that the buffer latency would amount to the same even when two units are asynchronous to one another. The absolute max possible drift is 5uS (then the DPLL is given a nudge to adjust the phase to 0 uS phase shift, then after that the phase is disconnected and only frequency locked, so source jitter has no bearing on the output), and that's about 1.8 mm shift with audio in air; in practice with a locked quality source clock they will all naturally line up to be about 1uS with one another - that's about one third of a millimetre. So I don't see it as an issue with what you propose. All current DAC's have the identical DPLL code.

Edit: this of course assumes the source is identical to all DAC's in terms of timing - which would happen if you paralleled up SPDIF connection

 

[dac64]

RME produces an affordable DIGIFACE USB product that splits a single USB into four TOSLINK outputs ...all in sync. Link here. EDIT: DOES NOT SUPPORT USB OUTPUT - Only TOSLINK routing - (My Bad)

Have you receive the USB to TOSLINK converter? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/HIF...gital-interface-MuRata-Audio/32813688802.html.

If yes, does it works?

 

[Sonic77]

Hard to tell without a DAC! I’m still waiting for my Dave and have sold all previous DACs to finance it!
I won’t be able to do a real A/B but I do t mind, it’s a matter of “Audio Hygiene”, I’m trying to remove any noisy SMPS, the only one left is the one powering the AQVOX AQ-SWITCH-SE, but they claim it’s not noisy.
I upgraded all stock power cords to Audioquest NRG-X3 for the HDPLEX and the two sPS-500 power supplies powering the network player and the headphone amp.
For the Dave I will try to use the Ice Age Audio Copper/Copper or Silver/Silver I already have, I’m not sure it’s worth investing more money in crazy expensive power cables.
Everything is plugged in into two mains filters/conditioners from Consonance (Opera Audio).

Opps forgot that you said that you were waiting for your Dave. Keep us updated when you get it, some people believe power cords make a difference some don't, I think they do.