No issues withs seperation on my end to be honest, I was surprised how well this thing handles stuff compared to my burson soloist. I felt like there was more detail and seperation while burson is mid-fi / entry high end solid state amp. The issue might be the source and you might want to try other standalone dacs.Hi there!
I just got my HA-3A (new version ships with EHX 6v6) today. I've been waiting for it for 2 weeks. Feeding from Apple music Lossless > Mojo 2 > HA-3A > Kennerton Gjallahorn.
Initial impressions: sounds really warm but it feels like everything was blended together. Lacks details and seperation (compared to the mojo 2 alone). This is from 0 hrs. I'll give it some burn in time. Hope everything sounds better.
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Cayin HA-3A, a Compact 6V6s Transformer-coupled Tube Amplifier
- Thread starter Andykong
- Start date
I also find clarity, spaciousness, and as a consequence of these, separation a strong suit of the 3A. Certainly better in this regard than the Soloist 3XP, iFi Pro iCan or GSX-Mini.No issues withs seperation on my end to be honest, I was surprised how well this thing handles stuff compared to my burson soloist. I felt like there was more detail and seperation while burson is mid-fi / entry high end solid state amp. The issue might be the source and you might want to try other standalone dacs.
The source im using is an iphone with cck straight to the mojo 2. I think I just need to give it a bit of burn in. Im currently using a cheapo RCA tho. An upgrade RCA is on its way here. Ill update you after I receive the cables.
By the way. How do you guys burn in your gears? Do you leave your headphones connected as well?
By the way. How do you guys burn in your gears? Do you leave your headphones connected as well?
mudguardiain
100+ Head-Fier
Hi, I am on the verge of order the 3A for my Hifiman HE1000 stealths & currently have a Soloist 3XP. I was concerned about clarity/separation of sounds/instruments myself. I am new to tube amps but was hoping for a slightly calmer high end by switching to tubes. The Burson is a great amp, just maybe a touch to strong in the top end with the HE1000. What's you impression of the sound signature of the 3A compared to the Burson, do you think it a worthwhile punt. I am unable to audition locally & hoping to avoid having to return the amp if I didn't like it.I also find clarity, spaciousness, and as a consequence of these, separation a strong suit of the 3A. Certainly better in this regard than the Soloist 3XP, iFi Pro iCan or GSX-Mini.
I am happy to share my thoughts and experience with the two amps, but can't take responsibility for you hearing them the same way or liking them the same way.Hi, I am on the verge of order the 3A for my Hifiman HE1000 stealths & currently have a Soloist 3XP. I was concerned about clarity/separation of sounds/instruments myself. I am new to tube amps but was hoping for a slightly calmer high end by switching to tubes. The Burson is a great amp, just maybe a touch to strong in the top end with the HE1000. What's you impression of the sound signature of the 3A compared to the Burson, do you think it a worthwhile punt. I am unable to audition locally & hoping to avoid having to return the amp if I didn't like it.
It seems, the HE1000 Stealth has 90 dB/mW sensitivity which means it is harder to drive than my Elite with 101 dB/mW. I think, you should probably still be fine, but it is worth noting that the 3A is not for the most power hungry headphones. As I said, I think 90 dB/mW is still fine, but with headphones at 80-85 dB/mW I would probably start to look elsewhere.
Back to the sound, yes, the 3XP is a great little SS amp. In general I think the 3A is an improvement on the 3XP in pretty much everything, perhaps the only exception is that solid state 'punch' the Burson has. Soundstage is bigger, deeper with better layering on the 3A, there is a lot more 'air'. The biggest difference however is how much more natural and lifelike the sound is; more lifelike tone and timbre.
To directly answer your question, yes, the treble is smoother and more rounded on the Cayin. Also, with different NOS tubes you will have the option to tune the amp warmer if you prefer.
To me hands down the 3A is the more enjoyable amp, but not everyone falls in love with tubes as easily as I did.
mudguardiain
100+ Head-Fier
Many thanks for you reply, much appreciated. I fully accept we all hear different things & use different kit. My dealer seems to think it would work ok although I am a little unsure about the power. I have also shortlisted the Icon HP8 mk2 signature, I believe this has a little more power.I am happy to share my thoughts and experience with the two amps, but can't take responsibility for you hearing them the same way or liking them the same way.
It seems, the HE1000 Stealth has 90 dB/mW sensitivity which means it is harder to drive than my Elite with 101 dB/mW. I think, you should probably still be fine, but it is worth noting that the 3A is not for the most power hungry headphones. As I said, I think 90 dB/mW is still fine, but with headphones at 80-85 dB/mW I would probably start to look elsewhere.
Back to the sound, yes, the 3XP is a great little SS amp. In general I think the 3A is an improvement on the 3XP in pretty much everything, perhaps the only exception is that solid state 'punch' the Burson has. Soundstage is bigger, deeper with better layering on the 3A, there is a lot more 'air'. The biggest difference however is how much more natural and lifelike the sound is; more lifelike tone and timbre.
To directly answer your question, yes, the treble is smoother and more rounded on the Cayin. Also, with different NOS tubes you will have the option to tune the amp warmer if you prefer.
To me hands down the 3A is the more enjoyable amp, but not everyone falls in love with tubes as easily as I did.
Power on the HA-3A is no problem with the HE1000 v2. The Cayin drives them to its best (and I have got the non-stealth version which is a bit harder to drive).
I can’t past 11 o clock with the Cayin.
For me - the HA-3A is the best pairing for the HE1000 v2. Better than my old Burson Soloist, ifi Pro iCAN or Cayin iHA-6.
Are there any information how much current the Cayin bumps out?
I can’t past 11 o clock with the Cayin.
For me - the HA-3A is the best pairing for the HE1000 v2. Better than my old Burson Soloist, ifi Pro iCAN or Cayin iHA-6.
Are there any information how much current the Cayin bumps out?
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Deleeh
Headphoneus Supremus
Hello,
Does anyone know which capacitors Cayin has installed?
I am personally not sure which ones they are, I suspect they are Mundorf but could be others.
Does anyone know which capacitors Cayin has installed?
I am personally not sure which ones they are, I suspect they are Mundorf but could be others.
Follow up from my post. After a couple of hours of burn-in, the sound is way better now. The bass is tighter, details and instrument seperation are now better. Mids are thick and lush. Music is now very enjoyable on the 3A. I wonder how will it sound after 100 more hours of burn in.
Can you leave this amp on for burn in 24/7?
Can you leave this amp on for burn in 24/7?
The source im using is an iphone with cck straight to the mojo 2. I think I just need to give it a bit of burn in. Im currently using a cheapo RCA tho. An upgrade RCA is on its way here. Ill update you after I receive the cables.
By the way. How do you guys burn in your gears? Do you leave your headphones connected as well?
jamato8
Headphoneus Supremus
I wouldn't. And I don't like leaving a tube amp unattended for any length of time. If a tube goes bad, better to be there to shut it down.Follow up from my post. After a couple of hours of burn-in, the sound is way better now. The bass is tighter, details and instrument seperation are now better. Mids are thick and lush. Music is now very enjoyable on the 3A. I wonder how will it sound after 100 more hours of burn in.
Can you leave this amp on for burn in 24/7?
jamato8
Headphoneus Supremus
Maybe a multi section cap? I see they use teflon over the leads. I have spools of teflon and have done the same thing for years. Nice because you get about 90% air dielectric, which is the best.Hello,
Does anyone know which capacitors Cayin has installed?
I am personally not sure which ones they are, I suspect they are Mundorf but could be others.
One discovery I made with HA-3A last days.
I am using the amp as desktop amp near are rather powerful rendering pc. I often listen to music while I work and prefer to keep my cans on for gaming too. What I noticed is that there is audioble buzz electric buzz (not just usual lamp noise) when I scroll in browser or when the gpu is heavily taxed. Basically I could hear my mouse move..
The chain is pc- cayin idac6-mk2 - cayin ha-3a - verite open via XLR, high gain.
I tried using good mogami RCA cables, I even burrowed some expensive audioquest RCA from a friend (no audible difference to mogami btw) but the electric buzz was the same. I tested mogami XLR - same buzz maybe even bit more.
The fix was weird: when not fully insert the RCA cable into the socket of the amp, but just the pin, there is no nosie at all. I still get the full signal but RCA cable metal ring doesnt touch the socket metal ring this way, only the pin is inserted into the socket. This is not such an elegant solution but I guess I can live with that.
All I can conclude is that there is a possibility that HA-3A ports are not shielded properly and cables start to act like antennas when inserted fully, this goes for both XLR and RCA, which is something to be kept in mind if you intend to use the amp near your pc / as desktop amp.
I am using the amp as desktop amp near are rather powerful rendering pc. I often listen to music while I work and prefer to keep my cans on for gaming too. What I noticed is that there is audioble buzz electric buzz (not just usual lamp noise) when I scroll in browser or when the gpu is heavily taxed. Basically I could hear my mouse move..
The chain is pc- cayin idac6-mk2 - cayin ha-3a - verite open via XLR, high gain.
I tried using good mogami RCA cables, I even burrowed some expensive audioquest RCA from a friend (no audible difference to mogami btw) but the electric buzz was the same. I tested mogami XLR - same buzz maybe even bit more.
The fix was weird: when not fully insert the RCA cable into the socket of the amp, but just the pin, there is no nosie at all. I still get the full signal but RCA cable metal ring doesnt touch the socket metal ring this way, only the pin is inserted into the socket. This is not such an elegant solution but I guess I can live with that.
All I can conclude is that there is a possibility that HA-3A ports are not shielded properly and cables start to act like antennas when inserted fully, this goes for both XLR and RCA, which is something to be kept in mind if you intend to use the amp near your pc / as desktop amp.
Are you sure that the noise(cpu/gpu) is not induced as groundloop over the USB shielding from your PC to the DAC and passed over to the HA-3A?One discovery I made with HA-3A last days.
I am using the amp as desktop amp near are rather powerful rendering pc. I often listen to music while I work and prefer to keep my cans on for gaming too. What I noticed is that there is audioble buzz electric buzz (not just usual lamp noise) when I scroll in browser or when the gpu is heavily taxed. Basically I could hear my mouse move..
The chain is pc- cayin idac6-mk2 - cayin ha-3a - verite open via XLR, high gain.
I tried using good mogami RCA cables, I even burrowed some expensive audioquest RCA from a friend (no audible difference to mogami btw) but the electric buzz was the same. I tested mogami XLR - same buzz maybe even bit more.
The fix was weird: when not fully insert the RCA cable into the socket of the amp, but just the pin, there is no nosie at all. I still get the full signal but RCA cable metal ring doesnt touch the socket metal ring this way, only the pin is inserted into the socket. This is not such an elegant solution but I guess I can live with that.
All I can conclude is that there is a possibility that HA-3A ports are not shielded properly and cables start to act like antennas when inserted fully, this goes for both XLR and RCA, which is something to be kept in mind if you intend to use the amp near your pc / as desktop amp.
In this case a USB isolator might help (if you are actually using USB).
I had this the last days. Tried the USB input of my DAC for testing higher oversampling rates. After some time I noticed a hum and thought my new tubes were at fault. I switched back to optical input ...same hum...must be the tubes. Later I unplugged the USB of my DAC and the amp was silent again.Are you sure that the noise(cpu/gpu) is not induced as groundloop over the USB shielding from your PC to the DAC and passed over to the HA-3A?
In this case a USB isolator might help (if you are actually using USB).
Really crazy the USB hum build up and faded from time to time.
I will stay with my optical cable until I have a streamer or DDC.
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Considered that, tried differnet USB cables, including a medical grade one, might try an usb isolator. Still the behaviour of not fully inserted RCA cable that mitigates the noise is somewhat weird. Whats intersting, when I am using another old cheap dac with exactly the same cables, there is noise. So might be some shielding issue of cayin idac-6mk2 just aswell.Are you sure that the noise(cpu/gpu) is not induced as groundloop over the USB shielding from your PC to the DAC and passed over to the HA-3A?
In this case a USB isolator might help (if you are actually using USB).