[Yggy]

I thought the mids were the weakest part of the Diana Phi sound but my ears have been spoiled with Susvaras and it’s probably a reflection on how strong the treble and bass is.

The sound signature is V-shaped but in a good way, it’s not a s&@t sandwich! I was really enjoying the listening to them earlier.

The Diana Phi soundstage is meant to be bigger than the Susvara, I didn’t think there was much difference but I’ve been listening to AKG K1000 for the last week with the flaps as wide open as they go, the sound stage goes on forever.

The perfect headphone would have Diana Phi treble, Susvara mids, HE-6 bass, and the K1000 sound stage.

If you’re only going to get one pair of headphones, it has to be Susvara. They put everything together better than any other headphone I’ve listened to provided you don’t listen to rock and metal or power amp them.

My problem with Susvaras is they were my only headphone for a long time. I was wowed by them initially because of how many things they did well, then started listening to other headphones that do one thing particularly well.

After listening to the Diana Phi, I’m even more curious about what Abyss 1266 TCs sound like. From what I’ve read, the TCs don’t work as well with 300b tubes as some other TOTL headphones and I don’t think I could ever give up the tonal sweetness of 300b tubes.

I had a Cayin HA-6A before the HA300 and much prefer the sound of 300b tubes to the KT88 and EL34 tubes you could switch between in the HA-6A.

 

[dadracer2]

I thought the mids were the weakest part of the Diana Phi sound but my ears have been spoiled with Susvaras and it’s probably a reflection on how strong the treble and bass is.

The sound signature is V-shaped but in a good way, it’s not a s&@t sandwich! I was really enjoying the listening to them earlier.

The Diana Phi soundstage is meant to be bigger than the Susvara, I didn’t think there was much difference but I’ve been listening to AKG K1000 for the last week with the flaps as wide open as they go, the sound stage goes on forever.

The perfect headphone would have Diana Phi treble, Susvara mids, HE-6 bass, and the K1000 sound stage.

If you’re only going to get one pair of headphones, it has to be Susvara. They put everything together better than any other headphone I’ve listened to provided you don’t listen to rock and metal or power amp them.

My problem with Susvaras is they were my only headphone for a long time. I was wowed by them initially because of how many things they did well, then started listening to other headphones that do one thing particularly well.

After listening to the Diana Phi, I’m even more curious about what Abyss 1266 TCs sound like. From what I’ve read, the TCs don’t work as well with 300b tubes as some other TOTL headphones and I don’t think I could ever give up the tonal sweetness of 300b tubes.

I had a Cayin HA-6A before the HA300 and much prefer the sound of 300b tubes to the KT88 and EL34 tubes you could switch between in the HA-6A.

I haven't heard the Diana (or the 1266) in any of their versions which is a bit of an omission. The Susvara was the first planar which I really liked. I had listened to quite a few different HFM models including the Shangri La but the Susvara I thought were the best in their whole range.

In fact I am a big fan of the HD800S though and although the Susvara can beat it at a number of things it doesn't do treble or imaging like the HD800S at least to my preference.

I think you are correct about the 300B as I have had quite a few valve amps over the years but I had never heard anything like the combination of HD800S and the 300B. It honestly reminded me of the first time I heard an electrostatic headphone and gave me a bit of a shock with headphones I thought I knew really well.

I am currently mulling over what to do about a new set of 6SN7 valves and every time I think I have made the right choice I see an article that says they are rubbish and what you need is this! So a work in progress...

 

[karlheinz147]

After listening to the Diana Phi, I’m even more curious about what Abyss 1266 TCs sound like. From what I’ve read, the TCs don’t work as well with 300b tubes as some other TOTL headphones and I don’t think I could ever give up the tonal sweetness of 300b tubes.

What exactly have you read about the 1266 TC not working well with 300b tubes?

 

[Yggy]

What exactly have you read about the 1266 TC not working well with 300b tubes?

Posts 439 and 440 here. AndyKong didn’t think the TC drivers worked with 300b tubes.

“I think the Abyss AB-1266 + HA-300 is more a synergy issue between 300B power tube and the house sound of 1266, and the latest Phi TC just put things slightly more difficult then the previous version. To me, the glorious part of 300B power tube is intimating mid-range, outstanding microdynamic, extremely rich harmonic and holographic presentation. The headphone implementation of 300B placed these beautiful tonal characteristic in full-scale dynamic and FR extension context, something uneasy to obtain from speaker application. Unfortunately, I still find the 300B lacking if you are after rumbling bass and wide soundstage in a magnificent presentation.”

I’ve always found AndyKong’s views to be spot on. I’m sure the Abyss 1266 and HA-300 sound great, but it’s probably the case of 10/10 and a 10/10 kit combining to make an 18/20 combination whereas in our hobby we’re all looking to combine a 8/10 and 9/10 to make a 19/20 combination.

300b bass is fine from my perspective. I prefer quality over quantity. I get why it might not be enough for some ears though, it’s elegant, sweet, beautiful, and refined.

If I had an Abyss 1266 TC I’d probably want to listen to it on a solid state amp like the Flux Volot, Niimbus 4/5, or Formula S.

I have Empire Ear Legend Evo IEMs. As an experiment, I bought a 4.4mm to XLR adapter and listened to them on the HA-300. There was none of the usual 300b tube sound improvement. They sound as good or better on my FiiO M17 DAP.

 

[Yggy]

In fact I am a big fan of the HD800S though and although the Susvara can beat it at a number of things it doesn't do treble or imaging like the HD800S at least to my preference.

I think you are correct about the 300B as I have had quite a few valve amps over the years but I had never heard anything like the combination of HD800S and the 300B. It honestly reminded me of the first time I heard an electrostatic headphone and gave me a bit of a shock with headphones I thought I knew really well.

I picked up a very reasonably priced used HD-800s missing its stock 6.35mm cable on eBay yesterday so will hopefully have it to compare against my AKG K1000 this weekend.

I’ve read a lot of positive comments about the HD-800s and Cayin HA-300.

Do you ever use the HD-800s for movies or gaming? I read it’s meant to be good for dialogue because of the treble quality and clarity.

My first decent headphones were HD-650s and I used them for movies only with a 5m Stefan Audio cable that cost more than the headphones and a Graham Slee Solo headphone amp. They were superb.

 

[dadracer2]

I picked up a very reasonably priced used HD-800s missing its stock 6.35mm cable on eBay yesterday so will hopefully have it to compare against my AKG K1000 this weekend.

I’ve read a lot of positive comments about the HD-800s and Cayin HA-300.

Do you ever use the HD-800s for movies or gaming? I read it’s meant to be good for dialogue because of the treble quality and clarity.

My first decent headphones were HD-650s and I used them for movies only with a 5m Stefan Audio cable that cost more than the headphones and a Graham Slee Solo headphone amp. They were superb.

I think the HA300 is the best pairing I’ve heard with the HD800S. I’d be interested to hear your comparison with the K1000.
No not for movies I’ve got a home cinema system which is very basic but ideal with blockbuster stuff. I don’t game at all.

 

[Yggy]

You may have seen this for sale (not mine) but just in case.

https://www.head-fi.org/classifieds/cayin-ca-300.22189/

 

[Yggy]

I’m investigating replacing the Mundorf coupling capacitors in my HA-300 to improve its performance with my Susvaras.

I’ve been told I should consider V-Cap or Jupiters because they may sound as good as the Duelunds llamaluv used without so many hours of burn-in.

Does anybody know anybody in the UK who could switch out the Mondorf stock coupling capacitors?

Has anybody else done this? Llamaluv said after, I think 300 hours, his Abyss 1266 sounded much than before. I’d like to avoid so many hours of burn in to conserve my premium tubes but I have the stock tubes to switch back to if needs be.

Llamaluv you fitted 0.22uF 630VDC Duelunds to replace the 0.22uF 700VDC Mundorfs. I was thinking of 0.22uF 600VDC V-Cap CuTF capacitors.

http://www.v-cap.com/cutf-capacitors.php

Is there anything better I could fit and should I be going with 600VDC? The alternative is 300VDC or 1200VDC.

AndyKong, have you got a view on this upgrade? Have you heard an HA-300 that’s had it or heard any feedback from enthusiast’s who’ve done it? I’m assuming you’d need Susvaras or Abyss 1266 for it to be worthwhile?

 

[dadracer2]

I’m investigating replacing the Mundorf coupling capacitors in my HA-300 to improve its performance with my Susvaras.

I’ve been told I should consider V-Cap or Jupiters because they may sound as good as the Duelunds llamaluv used without so many hours of burn-in.

Does anybody know anybody in the UK who could switch out the Mondorf stock coupling capacitors?

Has anybody else done this? Llamaluv said after, I think 300 hours, his Abyss 1266 sounded much than before. I’d like to avoid so many hours of burn in to conserve my premium tubes but I have the stock tubes to switch back to if needs be.

Llamaluv you fitted 0.22uF 630VDC Duelunds to replace the 0.22uF 700VDC Mundorfs. I was thinking of 0.22uF 600VDC V-Cap CuTF capacitors.

http://www.v-cap.com/cutf-capacitors.php

Is there anything better I could fit and should I be going with 600VDC? The alternative is 300VDC or 1200VDC.

AndyKong, have you got a view on this upgrade? Have you heard an HA-300 that’s had it or heard any feedback from enthusiast’s who’ve done it? I’m assuming you’d need Susvaras or Abyss 1266 for it to be worthwhile?

Hi Fi Collective seem to have a range of Mundorfs. They are also experienced in folks building diy amps so might be able to help?

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/m_cap.html

 

[Yggy]

Thanks. Close enough for a drop off and pick up. Will give them a call tomorrow.

 

[dadracer2]

Thanks. Close enough for a drop off and pick up. Will give them a call tomorrow.

I had been looking through their site earlier today for upgrade valves. Have you swapped out yours and if so what did you end up with?

 

[Yggy]

I had been looking through their site earlier today for upgrade valves. Have you swapped out yours and if so what did you end up with?

I have a pair of Western Electric WE300b tubes. I think it has to be either Western Electric or Takatsuki. I chose WE300b for the 5 year warranty. They cost USD 1,500.

I thought about PS Vane Acme 300b to save some money but they were over half the price of the WE300b with only a 1 year warranty so for peace of mind, Western Wlectric new production is hard to beat.

The choice of 6SN7 was harder. I started looking for NOS Melz 1578 but there was a lot of talk about fakes and I couldn’t find anything suitable. I ended up going for NOS Sylvania 6SN7W metal bases from Audio Antiquary in Italy. They cost 1,000 Euros.

I bought a pair of quad matched General Electric 22DE4 rectifier tubes from an eBay seller in Brazil for about USD 100.

The advice I read was to upgrade the 6SN7 tubes first so that’s what I. The 6SN7W metal bases and WE300 made a very noticeable improvement to sound quality. I couldn’t detect any real change with the GE 22DE4 rectifier tubes, it was definitely as good as the stock 22DE4 tubes so I left them in.

I’ve never swapped the stock tubes back in so it’s not a case of the rolled tubes being better for some music genres or sonic preferences like different TOTL headphones. The rolled tubes are better in every way than the stock tubes. More detail, more holographic, more refinement, more 300b sweetness.

I read somewhere that the HA-300 scaled well with premium 6SN7 and 300b tubes and that was so true. The improvement wasn’t like a better cable, it was like getting a better amp, twice. That’s why I tell people to buy a used MK1 HA-300 and spend what you save on the best possible tubes.

 

[dadracer2]

I have a pair of Western Electric WE300b tubes. I think it has to be either Western Electric or Takatsuki. I chose WE300b for the 5 year warranty. They cost USD 1,500.

I thought about PS Vane Acme 300b to save some money but they were over half the price of the WE300b with only a 1 year warranty so for peace of mind, Western Wlectric new production is hard to beat.

The choice of 6SN7 was harder. I started looking for NOS Melz 1578 but there was a lot of talk about fakes and I couldn’t find anything suitable. I ended up going for NOS Sylvania 6SN7W metal bases from Audio Antiquary in Italy. They cost 1,000 Euros.

I bought a pair of quad matched General Electric 22DE4 rectifier tubes from an eBay seller in Brazil for about USD 100.

The advice I read was to upgrade the 6SN7 tubes first so that’s what I. The 6SN7W metal bases and WE300 made a very noticeable improvement to sound quality. I couldn’t detect any real change with the GE 22DE4 rectifier tubes, it was definitely as good as the stock 22DE4 tubes so I left them in.

I’ve never swapped the stock tubes back in so it’s not a case of the rolled tubes being better for some music genres or sonic preferences like different TOTL headphones. The rolled tubes are better in every way than the stock tubes. More detail, more holographic, more refinement, more 300b sweetness.

I read somewhere that the HA-300 scaled well with premium 6SN7 and 300b tubes and that was so true. The improvement wasn’t like a better cable, it was like getting a better amp, twice. That’s why I tell people to buy a used MK1 HA-300 and spend what you save on the best possible tubes.

Thanks for this and I will check out these options. Like you the recommendations have been start with the 6SN7 as it is earlier in the signal path so will be likely to make the biggest difference. So far I am most tempted by the PSVANE CV181 mkii. I am a bit uncertain/confused/freaked by the myriad NOS valves so I will keep looking and at your suggestions. The 300b that I am quite drawn to is the new(ish) Audio Note 4300E which is truly a 300b and I'm uncertain why it has this designation. I believe they are made for AN by PSVANE to their design.

Cheers

 

[llamaluv]

I’m investigating replacing the Mundorf coupling capacitors in my HA-300 to improve its performance with my Susvaras.

I’ve been told I should consider V-Cap or Jupiters because they may sound as good as the Duelunds llamaluv used without so many hours of burn-in.

[...]

Llamaluv you fitted 0.22uF 630VDC Duelunds to replace the 0.22uF 700VDC Mundorfs. I was thinking of 0.22uF 600VDC V-Cap CuTF capacitors.

Argh, I just remembered that I originally got a pair of Jupiter caps to put in my HA300, but after a while I got distracted and went for the Duelunds instead, and so they're still completely unused. Anyway, I just rifled through my stuff, and I can't find them now. For reference, this is what I got -- 0.33uF/600VDC, from PartsConnexion

But yea, I'm still loving my caps upgrade (as well as the Tak's I got now a little while ago). The HA-300 is still my heavily favored amp these days. Used with the TC and the Elite.

For what it's worth, on the Takatsukis, compared to my PSVane ACMEs, it was not a "home run", but ultimately a "sidegrade". They both do different things better. So I feel compelled to keep both, and swap between the two on occasion. I think I like the Takasukis more with the the TC because they're "faster", which I think plays to the TC's strengths. But the PSVane ACMEs are just really beautifully lush and deep (and a little less mid-forward), and go better with the Elite, which is a shade mid-forward to me already...

Hi Fi Collective seem to have a range of Mundorfs. They are also experienced in folks building diy amps so might be able to help?

https://www.hificollective.co.uk/components/m_cap.html

Nice, that's where I got my Duelunds (now two years ago), and had them shipped to the U.S.

 

[Yggy]

Why did you go for 0.33 uF 600 VDC rather than 0.22 uF 600 VDC Jupiters? The Mundorfs in the HA-300 are 0.22 uF 600 VDC.

(I know nothing about these specs by the way!

https://www.partsconnexion.com/JUPITER-78883.html