Nice! Did it get rid off the harsh top end on vocals? I feel like HEKV2 is very senstivie when it comes to bad vocal recording, but in HEkse its worse because and amazingly detail the Headphone is.
Burson Soloist 3X Performance Head/Pre Amp - 8Wpc XLR with MUSE72320 volume control
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mikeypas
100+ Head-Fier
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I dont have the hekv2 to compare, but listening on hd800s I find the he1kse much more revealing and more eganging to listen too.I was thinking of adding a tube amp to the chain to see if that smoothens out the highs.
Interesting! I tried the HEKSE before. But I found it too bright for my sensitive ears. Its really good when it comes to good recording, but when it comes to bad vocal recording it reveals everything that's bad about it haha.
jlemaster1957
1000+ Head-Fier
Hi,
Recently bought the Burson 3X GT 2023 "silent revision" with the updated, "rollable" power modules. Passion for Sound recently talked about this update in Live Session, starts at 27 min into it.
I won't repeat his comments comparing this to the 3xGT OG, since I don't have that one, and cannot add much to what has already been said elsewhere re: improvements from the 3XP (which I do have), but here just comment on the fan's noise.
I used an iPhone app (Decibel Meter) to measure ambient sound in my listening room, which is about 40 db (mostly heating/AC background noise).. With the GT Unit now switched on, and iPhone/app is 10 cm from the fan (GT in the Cool Stand, front of the iPhone directly facing the top side of the GT Unit) this increases to 48 db. Backing off 1 m, with the GT still switched on the and fan going, the app does not measure a difference in db from the ambient room noise vs with the fan off. Having said that, I can still hear it in the room at that distance, but it's only just audible. From 2 m back I can't hear a difference from ambient sound. Note that my listening room has sound dampening carpet and wall covering (bubble wrap).
My point here is that in the 2023 revised unit, the fan is now very quiet indeed, certainly not bothersome. If one is really wanting to hear the sound of 'blackground' and is prone to obsession about fan noise, don't get this amp. But for the rest of us, IMHO, the added SQ sound benefits now eclipse the potential dis-benefit of added sound noise.
Recently bought the Burson 3X GT 2023 "silent revision" with the updated, "rollable" power modules. Passion for Sound recently talked about this update in Live Session, starts at 27 min into it.
I won't repeat his comments comparing this to the 3xGT OG, since I don't have that one, and cannot add much to what has already been said elsewhere re: improvements from the 3XP (which I do have), but here just comment on the fan's noise.
I used an iPhone app (Decibel Meter) to measure ambient sound in my listening room, which is about 40 db (mostly heating/AC background noise).. With the GT Unit now switched on, and iPhone/app is 10 cm from the fan (GT in the Cool Stand, front of the iPhone directly facing the top side of the GT Unit) this increases to 48 db. Backing off 1 m, with the GT still switched on the and fan going, the app does not measure a difference in db from the ambient room noise vs with the fan off. Having said that, I can still hear it in the room at that distance, but it's only just audible. From 2 m back I can't hear a difference from ambient sound. Note that my listening room has sound dampening carpet and wall covering (bubble wrap).
My point here is that in the 2023 revised unit, the fan is now very quiet indeed, certainly not bothersome. If one is really wanting to hear the sound of 'blackground' and is prone to obsession about fan noise, don't get this amp. But for the rest of us, IMHO, the added SQ sound benefits now eclipse the potential dis-benefit of added sound noise.
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Donald Russell
New Head-Fier
I have a soloist and e70 velvet that I just put together and they sound fantastic together. I have been using my mojo2 as a dac with the soloist and today put them both into a passive volume control and listened with the soloist in power amp mode then switched back and forth and it was difficult to tell a difference when not using eq on the mojo. The mojo may have been slightly better to my ears, but I just manually tried to volume match them so its hard to say. I prefer the mojo2 because I like to add a little base to my hifiman headphones. Both dacs have volume control so I can turn them down a little so I can use more of the range of the passive volume control. I listened with an arya v2, a nonstealth ananda, a focal clear OG, and a he1000k stealth and they all sounded really! good from the soloist in power amp mode and the e70 velvet dac. I also used a denfrips ares 2 as the dac, but to me the e70 velvet and mojo2 sound better than the denafrips with a soloist. you really can’t go wrong with any of these dacs and your ears may hear them differently than mine.
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I'd like suggestions for a DAC or DAC/PRE to use with Soloist in PowerAmp mode.
I'm looking for these features:
- Easy to find in the US
- Balanced out
- Reliable volume control using a remote. I tried a Topping D90 and volume would spike sometimes by 5-10 steps using remote.
Yes, the RME has what I need. I just sold mine. I know there are better DAC options out there.
Thanks!
I'm looking for these features:
- Easy to find in the US
- Balanced out
- Reliable volume control using a remote. I tried a Topping D90 and volume would spike sometimes by 5-10 steps using remote.
Yes, the RME has what I need. I just sold mine. I know there are better DAC options out there.
Thanks!
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jlemaster1957
1000+ Head-Fier
Never found D90SE to spike. Using Schiit Yggdrasil OG now quite happily, but you’d need a pre-amp. I’m using with Burson 3X GT that doesn’t have poweramp mode so not an issue /not same exact scenario
mikeypas
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I’m also using soloist 3xgt currently, but was using soloist 3x previously. Using Gustard r26 and quite happy.
idairyou
500+ Head-Fier
For me the best combo was the Musician Pegasus, with a Goldpoint passive preamp.
dpeterfy32
100+ Head-Fier
Hello everyone. I have to ask the question here because there is a burson audio thread on the headfi page that is active. I'm sure you know these devices very well. I have a question and a problem. it is a conductor 3XP device. My question would be, what standard is the USB-C input? USB 2.0 or USB 3.0? Does it matter what cable is connected to the PC? I mean the usb-c - usb-c cable or the usb-c - usb-A cable. if it matters, could you explain? does it matter in terms of data flow and speed? it is currently connected to the usb-C connector on top of the PC case with a $10 HAMA brand C-C cable. and this is an ordinary cable, not made for hi-fi connections.
I detailed it because I have a hunch that my problem is due to the cable. my problem is that when using USB with a PC and using the 3XP pre out xlr output with an active speaker, sometimes a scary, loud popping sound comes out of the speaker, which literally scares me. There is something even scarier than that... sometimes it makes a sound as if something is shaking the speakers. crackling sound and awfully loud and scary too. what do you think ? could it be because of the usb cable?
let me point out in advance, the xlr cable and speaker must work perfectly, they cannot be the source of the error. I welcome any useful information.
I detailed it because I have a hunch that my problem is due to the cable. my problem is that when using USB with a PC and using the 3XP pre out xlr output with an active speaker, sometimes a scary, loud popping sound comes out of the speaker, which literally scares me. There is something even scarier than that... sometimes it makes a sound as if something is shaking the speakers. crackling sound and awfully loud and scary too. what do you think ? could it be because of the usb cable?
let me point out in advance, the xlr cable and speaker must work perfectly, they cannot be the source of the error. I welcome any useful information.
jlemaster1957
1000+ Head-Fier
I have used both basic A->B USB , C-C and high end USB (Audiosensibility Statement Silver) USB cables and I have never hear the kind of issues you are describing as a result of USB cables, although I guess if there was a problem with the connection this could occur. If you are hearing popping and crackling it’s more likely to be due to an upstream problem in your PC or a downstream one in the headphone /IEM connection from your amp. At the most you may hear a difference in graininess or blackground between basic and high-end USB cables but it’s pretty subtle. I’d look somewhere else than the USB cable quality.
Ahhh I know this issue. This happens to me all the time too. I dont think its the USB cable. The popping sounds it just means electricity is actually going to your speakers after you turn on the amp itself. If you really want to avoid this.
I suggest to turn off the speakers and amp every use
Every Usage, Turn on the DAC, AMP, then the Speakers next in this orders. This is the same effect as the popping noise if plug in your headphones when the amp isn't warm enough.
Maybe someone that understand electrical engineering could explain it in more detail but I believe this could be something they called "DC Offset."
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dpeterfy32
100+ Head-Fier
Hello. I bought a Conductor 3XP device and I have a problem with it. my problem is that when using USB with a PC and using the 3XP pre out xlr output with an active speaker, sometimes a scary, loud popping sound comes out of the speaker, which literally scares me. There is something even scarier than that... sometimes it makes a sound as if something is shaking the speakers. crackling sound and awfully loud and scary too. what do you think? let me point out in advance, the xlr cable and speaker must work perfectly, they cannot be the source of the error. I welcome any useful information. this scary popping and "shaking" sound is there even if the 3XP is in preout or hp out mode. In fact, he did it even when he did not receive an active signal from any input, the 3XP was only switched on in idle mode!! Please help me find the problem, because the 3XP device is unusable!
jlemaster1957
1000+ Head-Fier
I advise to contact Burson - sometimes the op amps go bad. You should have received some ‘test’ op amps with the unit, the Burson techs can walk you thru how to test if one of the op amps is bad. I wouldn’t use the unit hooked up to expensive speakers till you work it out- users in past have had speakers/headphones ruined by faulty Burson op amps, without warning (though this has become less of a problem in the last couple of years) —at least you are hearing something before something has been damaged.
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