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Bravo Audio - funny looking little tube amps

Discussion in 'Headphone Amps (full-size)' started by ear8dmg, Sep 9, 2009.
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  1. ostewart
    Anyone know if changing the caps in the Ocean would make any difference, or just leave it be?

    I did change the LED as it was super bright stock, now using green with nail polish coating to dim it.

    More photos:

    IMG_20140105_111730.jpg

    IMG_20140105_111602.jpg
     
  2. razor5cl
    I hope to pick one of these up soon. This'll be my first tube amp, and I have a few questions. How long does it take to warm up, and how hot does it get? I hope that it gets really hot and takes a long time to warm up, just for that novelty factor.
     
  3. ostewart
    Not long to warm up. I leave mine a couple of minutes. The ocean does get hot, but it gets to a certain toasty temperature (wouldn't burn) and doesn't change. I can leave it on for hours and not worry about burning the house down.
     
  4. ostewart
    I was thinking of changing the MOSFETs to IRL 510's and the caps to 35v 2200uf, or just 25v 2200uf, nichicon. Not sure what difference to expect if any.
     
  5. razor5cl
    Might make a nice hand warmer. Also, where can I get one at a reasonable price in the UK? Amazon has the V1 for like £50 and direct from them the V1 Deluxe is roughly the same when converted from dollars, although I've heard people getting them for £30.
     
  6. ostewart
    EBay is worth a look, there are plenty on there.
     
  7. razor5cl
    Also, what exactly is the difference between the three models in terms of SQ? I'm using DT990 Pros.
     
  8. ostewart
    Dont really know. I know that the ocean powers the DT990 easily. The Ocean is completely closed in design whereas the V1/V3 only have some plexiglass type casing.
     
  9. razor5cl
    Yeah I prefer the open look.
     
  10. HOWIE13
    As far as the V3 is concerned, after about 5-10 minutes the sound has developed nicely. However, the sound continues to improve for a variable time, depending on the tube. Most tubes reach their 'sweet spot', I think it's called, in about 30-60 mins but I have a couple of Mullards which improve up to nearly three hours. .
    Except for a small area at the sides, it doesn't get particularly hot. The tube doesn't get very hot either.
     
  11. money4me247 Contributor
    interesting. i've actually never really paid attention... just kinda plug in & play lol.
     
    is the general consensus that the sound improves after the tubes warm up for a while? what kinds of specific improvements of sound would you hear? I'm going to have to pay attention next time.
     
  12. arcorob
    I have several pieces of tube gear..the primary being the main power amp (3 input tubes 8 output driver tubes)....I always turn it on ahead of time because it comes into its own 20-30 minutes after warm up. That is a general rule of thumb fro broken in tubes. even tube receivers (Old Fisher, Scott, etc,) always needed a significant warm up.
     
    If you come home and know your going to listen to music, turn your gear on when you walk through the door and let them get warm. And if you stop listening but are going to go back, leave them on...Just don't ever leave tube equipment on and leave the house...tube amps can cause fires
     
  13. HOWIE13
     
  14. HOWIE13
     Money4me247.
     
    Maybe I shouldn't tell you and then you won't have any pre-conceived ideas LOL!  So if you want to know in advance of testing read on-
     
    Immediately after switching on I hear nothing for about 20-30 seconds, then the sound is a bit thin with lack of bass, then it just comes right after a few more minutes. It's a consistent thing, never varies.
    A friend of mine has a large, very expensive, valve amp driving large room speakers and it's the same. I guess it is a valve thing. He reckons his takes about 20 minutes. 
     
  15. UmustBKidn
     
    To my knowledge all 3 are the same basic design. The difference being, 6922 tubes in the V1 and V3, 12AU7 for the V2, and the 3 band EQ in the V3. Early on I remember someone stating on this thread that the V2's were superior to the V1's and replacement tubes were easier/cheaper to come by (which is why I chose the V2).
     
    So that being said, the same mods discussed earlier in this thread and elsewhere should work for any version. I wish Judge Buff was reading this, he could probably tell you for sure.
     
    I've received my parts from Mouser. I've chosen to replace a handful of the most recommended items from this thread on RockGrotto.ProBoards.com. Basically, all 4 of the IC's, the input and output caps, and changing the bias resistor to a potentiometer. When I'm done, I am going to write a review of the modified V2 vs the stock V2 (using some Mullard d-getter tubes that are worth more than the amps lol).
     
    By all accounts, I should be able to expect a extended high end response, and punchier bass, at least. I have no preconceived notions though, so I am trying to keep an open mind.
     
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