[Ivan TT]

Why ?

Have no idea, just an empirical observation.

 

[Superluc]

There is someone that also have a Schiit Fulla 2 ? I'm planning to buy a Zishan Z2 on 11.11, and both use an AK4490, as a DAC. Can someone confirm if the line output of them sound almost the same or if there is some difference ?

 

[chaotic_angel]

Which Lightning-MicroUSB adaptor have you used??? There are so many of them, different prizes... and I don't know if a expensive one is going to be a good invest =(

Forgot the brand but I got 6 months back from Aliexpress.

 

[chaotic_angel]

There is someone that also have a Schiit Fulla 2 ? I'm planning to buy a Zishan Z2 on 11.11, and both use an AK4490, as a DAC. Can someone confirm if the line output of them sound almost the same or if there is some difference ?

Z2 is only able to handle 16bit as a DAC and, while Schiit Fulla 2 is better imo

 

[Superluc]

Better how ? I have the Fulla, as you can see on my avatar, and i'm talking only about DAC output/LO.

 

[dumbears]

@Ivan TT, I steal your picture for my own usage. If you feel uncomfortable, pls PM me. Pardon me, and I'll remove it ASAP.

Take the connectors in the red rectangle, and number them from top to bottom, and left to right.

1 3 5

2 4 6

If I'm correct, the left component is a capactor, while the rest are all resistors.

Before doing anything on the circuit, the voltage across the rails was 26.4V. Then, I soldered a 68K resistor to connectors 3 and 4. However, the new voltage I got was 11.2V, instead of the desired 18V. I wonder what went wrong. I'd like to know whether I accidentally shorted the circuit. With my DMM, here is my findings:

1--3--5

2--4 6

Connectors 1, 3 and 5 are shorted. Connectors 2 and 4 are also shorted.

Would somebody here to do me a favor, please? Are your circuit being the same? Thanks in advance.

 

[Ivan TT]

Would somebody here to do me a favor, please? Are your circuit being the same? Thanks in advance.

My apologies, I've got it wrong: 68k resistor should REPLACE the one in the middle (this will give around 19V rails), not added in parallel (which gives just under 12V indeed).

PS: confirmed, replaced smd resistor in the middle with 68k, rails just over 18V

 

[Ivan TT]

A/B testing time again.

The price difference is about 1:10 if my memory servers me right...

 

[dumbears]

My apologies, I've got it wrong: 68k resistor should REPLACE the one in the middle (this will give around 19V rails), not added in parallel (which gives just under 12V indeed).

PS: confirmed, replaced smd resistor in the middle with 68k, rails just over 18V

Thank you, thank you, thank you. (BTW, you don't have to apologize.) I learned a lot from you in modding this tiny monster.

Just FYI for the other folks who want to reduce the supply voltage (you may want to try AD8620 out), you may solder a resistor of 220K on top of the middle resistor to get 68K750 resistance. I know you all can do the math, but I just want to save you the hassle.

 

[DBaldock9]

A/B testing time again.

The price difference is about 1:10 if my memory servers me right...

If I could get my hands on a Mojo-Kai (the one that that's modded to substitute a Balanced 2.5mm TRRS Jack, for one of the 3.5mm TRS Jacks), I would buy a Mojo, even though I don't like the aesthetics of it.

 

[Ivan TT]

Modified my passive A/B switch to include 3.5mm socket.

Methodology: same track is played on Z2 and M2s which acts as a transport for Mojo, volumes carefully matched. I usually delay second device by few bars, so I can capture mental "snapshot" (impression) of the certain qualities of sound and have same section replayed from the second device straight away after I push A/B switch (this works better for me compared to perfectly in-sync playback).

Preliminary observations:

Z2 (Burson V6 vivid opamp, Dip8 AD275, Nichicon BP caps) + F1 actually is not too bad at all, when compared to Mojo!

In terms of the frequency response they are practically identical, the difference is in presentation and soundstage: Mojo has more aggressive (convincing?) mids, while Z2's mids are softer and more relaxed; mojo has better definition and precision in highs (unsurprisingly), while Z2 is again on a softer side (velvety should I say?). Mojo's sounstage is... Things are strange here. Z2's presentation is wider, especially in mids (V6's contribution no doubt), while mojo is more 3D sounding, especially if there's plenty of reverberation present in the music. Obviously Mojo's ability to resolve low-level detail contributes to it significantly, while Burson V6 vivid + Nichicon BP caps take Z2 to the level when it can stand against such an intimidating vis-a-vis.

Both setups have their own sound signature and one is not necessarily significantly better than another, while mojo wins in terms of precision and analytical yet warm presentation, I find Z2+F1 highly musical and relaxed.

Overall conclusion: no clear winner, unless you look at the price tag...

TBC

 

[DBaldock9]

Modified my passive A/B switch to include 3.5mm socket.

Methodology: same track is played on Z2 and M2s which acts as a transport for Mojo, volumes carefully matched. I usually delay second device by few bars, so I can capture mental "snapshot" (impression) of the certain qualities of sound and have same section replayed from the second device straight away after I push A/B switch (this works better for me compared to perfectly in-sync playback).

Preliminary observations:

Z2 (Burson V6 vivid opamp, Dip8 AD275, Nichicon BP caps) + F1 actually is not too bad at all, when compared to Mojo!

In terms of the frequency response they are practically identical, the difference is in presentation and soundstage: Mojo has more aggressive (convincing?) mids, while Z2's mids are softer and more relaxed; mojo has better definition and precision in highs (unsurprisingly), while Z2 is again on a softer side (velvety should I say?). Mojo's sounstage is... Things are strange here. Z2's presentation is wider, especially in mids (V6's contribution no doubt), while mojo is more 3D sounding, especially if there's plenty of reverberation present in the music. Obviously Mojo's ability to resolve low-level detail contributes to it significantly.

Both setups have their own sound signature and one is not necessarily significantly better than another, while mojo wins in terms of precision and analytical yet warm presentation, I find Z2+F1 highly musical and relaxed.

Overall conclusion: no clear winner, unless you look at the price tag...

TBC

So, with all the mods you've made to the Z2 and the F1, you can still install all the covers (with the batteries inside)?

 

[Ivan TT]

So, with all the mods you've made to the Z2 and the F1, you can still install all the covers (with the batteries inside)?

Yes, just.

 

[DBaldock9]

Yes, just.

That's why I intend to get a case that's ~35mm - 40mm deep, and "wide x tall" enough to hold a thin 6,000-mAh Li-Po battery, and the modified Z2 & F1 circuit boards. The three Z2 control buttons will be moved to one end, along with all the other switches, LEDs, and connectors - except the micro USB port, for DAC input and charging. There will only be one volume control - the one that's on the F1. The Z2 will just be used for its Line Output.
.
Hence my search for the smallest panel mount micro push button switches, which include LEDs (multi-color, if possible).

 

[chaotic_angel]

OOT question, for Z2 and F1 at standard version, if I am looking for sweet mids,separation and details which one should I choose Muses01 or Muses02 - at the moment I am happy with Burson V6 Dual Vivid, but since I am greedy for the Mids still I am looking for the other option LOL..