Bookshelf Speakers
Jul 27, 2009 at 5:06 PM Post #47 of 89
Quote:

Originally Posted by Nebby /img/forum/go_quote.gif
You can also find a piece of small metal pole that has the same diameter as the pin, cut it to length and use that to guide the jig down properly.


That's asking for trouble. Better to drill a hole for the bit to start in. An extra step but if you're building one-offs it's no big deal.
 
Jul 27, 2009 at 6:56 PM Post #48 of 89
On second thought you're correct, it's better to drill a hole. Don't have much experience with non-plunge routers personally, but I've had to cut pins to length before.
 
Jul 28, 2009 at 4:19 AM Post #49 of 89
I am planning to build the crossovers with the stock components, but the 4ohm 10watt metal film resistor is out of stock, are there any equivalents that would work from either madisound or mouser (I tried searching mouser, but I really don't know what to work for when it comes to 10 watts).

[EDIT]: Will Mundorf 3.9 ohm ones work? Or would a wirewound make any significant difference (much cheaper)?

http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=8415
http://www.madisound.com/catalog/pro...oducts_id=1002
 
Jul 28, 2009 at 3:44 PM Post #52 of 89
Yeah, drilling a hole for the router bit would work fine.

I'll tell you the one bonehead thing I did in case it helps. The jig's pin, for most of the holes I made, was under the router's base, which helped keep it snug. For the first tweeter hole I did, the pin was closer in to the bit, and not under the base. It didn't occur to me to check how deeply the pin was in the guide hole. As I was routing, with nothing to hold it, the pin worked up through the jig, and the router strayed, enough to ruin the piece.

After that I doublechecked that the guide pin was all the way in the guide hole and had no further problems. I hadn't looked the first time, and while the pin was in the hole, probably most of it was already sticking up through the jig when I started.

The other thing I found in doing countersinks-- the jig is set up for a 1/4" bit-- but the countersinks were wider than 1/4". I stepped it back by 7 to get a good side by side cut. (Each step is 1/16th.) As I say I'm a novice woodworker so if this is all obvious, just shrug it off.
 
Jul 30, 2009 at 8:39 PM Post #53 of 89
After taking off yesterday for some router bit packaging problems and subsequent injuries (if they are going to make you grab something very sharp, at least make it come out easily) I started trimming the pieces and found that they just weren't quite square enough. Luckily I have plenty of extra material and I will recut the material tomorrow (in any case I will get plenty of sub sixteenth accurate woodworking experience from this project).

When I do get these built, which will be easier: veneer the side and back panels with a black satin finish on the front, or just do the entire thing in black satin?
 
Jul 31, 2009 at 9:47 AM Post #55 of 89
For my speakers I plan on veneering sides and back with a satin finish on front. Doing the same for my SR-71's. Amazingly enough I found a 36mm bit at the 100 yen store, so I'm set to start work on the ZBM4's.
 
Jul 31, 2009 at 1:49 PM Post #56 of 89
Quote:

Originally Posted by Nebby /img/forum/go_quote.gif
For my speakers I plan on veneering sides and back with a satin finish on front. Doing the same for my SR-71's. Amazingly enough I found a 36mm bit at the 100 yen store, so I'm set to start work on the ZBM4's.


Last time I went, Tokyu Hands have the stuff too.
 
Jul 31, 2009 at 7:53 PM Post #58 of 89
Parts-express definitely lives up to their name, I got my order from them the second day after ordering. The speakon plugs are a bit larger than I expected, but they should still work (and they are built solidly like all other neutrik gear). Once my madisound order comes in I can go ahead and build the crossovers (might be a couple days before I can get back to wood working).

When building the crossovers, is there any steps I need to take to minimize parasitic induction, or should it be a non-issue?
 
Jul 31, 2009 at 8:10 PM Post #59 of 89
Quote:

Originally Posted by ThePredator /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Parts-express definitely lives up to their name, I got my order from them the second day after ordering. The speakon plugs are a bit larger than I expected, but they should still work (and they are built solidly like all other neutrik gear). Once my madisound order comes in I can go ahead and build the crossovers (might be a couple days before I can get back to wood working).

When building the crossovers, is there any steps I need to take to minimize parasitic induction, or should it be a non-issue?


I assume you're talking about inductor crosstalk? Since the ZBM4 doesn't have too many inductors, this makes your job a bit easier. Take a look at this: Placement of coils in crossover networks:

Troels is a wealth of info...if you need help, feel free to email him.
 
Aug 3, 2009 at 12:31 AM Post #60 of 89
Got tired of recutting wood so I had a friend help who has *much* better tools/skills (I don't really want to upgrade the tools I have since I will be living in a dorm for the rest of the year) and I am ready to start drilling and routing once my jig and bit arrive.

I got the crossovers built on some stiff cardboard which I think I will staple to the inside once the cabinets are built, and I have decided to hold off on ordering the amp parts until the speakers are built (I have a cheap amp I can test them with). Hopefully the project will come together over the next week if I have the time.

The other thing I was thinking about was the finish; I am pretty sure that I am going to veneer the box with something light, but for the face would it need to be painted (probably satin black, piano gloss looks nice, but I don't have the time) or could I use some Tung oil on the MDF? I have used Tung oil before (I put it on the inside of my drum sets) I think that it is a very easy and nice looking solution, but I don't know if it works well on MDF.
 
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