[ThePredator]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberspyder /img/forum/go_quote.gif Do you have a flush trim bit on your router? Better buy a spare, as it is going to get dull quick.

Should I just grab a normal one (what I currently use, not sure what brand) or does MDF prefer a down shear or spiral (or any of the tons of others I can't remember)?

Also, on the port, can I just use some PVC, or does the flare actually do something? Unfortunately ordering one would cost more in shipping than the actual part (I would have to grab it from Parts Express because no one else has a 1").

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nebby /img/forum/go_quote.gif The speakon plugs/jacks are typical neutrik...fairly easy and simple to solder. If your side panels are properly cut, using a straight cut bit with the router leads to perfectly sized tops and bottoms

Then I will probably go with the speakons, I do love Neutrik gear and I can't say no to just how damn professional the plugs are/look.

[EDIT]: What is a good gauge for speaker wire and is there anyone who sells that gauge in a sleeved two wire form (not very particular about cables, just has to be copper)?

 

[Nebby]

MDF is fine with a straight cut bit since there isn't any real grain to speak of. You WILL get a nicer finish with a spiral cut bit, but it's not as big of a deal with MDF than regular wood. I would say spend the money and buy a good bit, it's a good investment

Flared port is necessary to prevent port noise, if it's too expensive you can make do with a generous roundover on the back panel and attaching pvc pipe to length from there; but it's also recommended to flare the inner port, so it's up to you if you want to go that route.

 

[ThePredator]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nebby /img/forum/go_quote.gif MDF is fine with a straight cut bit since there isn't any real grain to speak of. You WILL get a nicer finish with a spiral cut bit, but it's not as big of a deal with MDF than regular wood. I would say spend the money and buy a good bit, it's a good investment Flared port is necessary to prevent port noise, if it's too expensive you can make do with a generous roundover on the back panel and attaching pvc pipe to length from there; but it's also recommended to flare the inner port, so it's up to you if you want to go that route.

I'll grab a spiral cut bit then. How susceptible is MDF to tear out? Are any special precautions needed?

Also, is a jigsaw a good way to do the 4" hole? I'll use a hole saw for the 1" port hole and I will try to find a 35mm forstner bit (which I can guarantee I will never find a use for again) for the tweeter hole.

 

[Nebby]

MDF has virtually no tear out issues since it has no real grain to speak of. About the only precaution for working with MDF is wearing a proper breathing filter as the MDF dust gets everywhere and can be an irritant. Dust control is a good idea too unless you're doing it in the backyard

Assuming you have access to a router, the best way to do a 4" hole would be to invest in a jasper jig (parts-express) or something similar in combination with a router. If you don't want to spend the money for one you can make a simple jig with some plexiglass.

On the other hand, if you plan on simply mounting the speaker directly to the face of the baffle, a rough jigsaw cut and careful sanding to proper size would do the job just fine.

I'm building the same speakers, so if you can wait a bit I'd be willing to ship you my 35mm bit to use for the holes. It'll also be easier for me to find one since it's metric land here.

For wire, I'd recommend the Canare 4S8, available from markertek here 16awg (13awg effective if you combine the pairs)

Lineup for the Canare Starquad speaker cable: http://www.canare.com/UploadedDocume...er%20Cable.pdf

 

[ThePredator]

This is how it is mounted, but the site warns about leakages from an improper fit. I'll order the jig since it also gives me an excuse to order the flared port (it does work with a fixed base router and a pilot hole, correct?).

 

[Nebby]

Correct, a fixed base router and a pilot hole. You drill the pilot hole then insert a metal pin, after that you insert the pin into the corresponding hole in the jig and route your circle. Just a reminder, but do make sure the jig is compatible with the brand/model of your router.

 

[ThePredator]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nebby /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm building the same speakers, so if you can wait a bit I'd be willing to ship you my 35mm bit to use for the holes. It'll also be easier for me to find one since it's metric land here.

Thanks for the offer, but I already added one to an amazon order.

It is kind of annoying to live in a country that uses an ass-backwards measuring system though especially since everything actually uses a mix of imperial and metric sizes.

I have some Canare around, but I was hoping that there was a thinner (cheaper) 2 conductor cable. It will probably be better to just use what I have then unless I see something cheap on ebay.

 

[cyberspyder]

I just used a circle cutter, but that's just me. It'd work much better if you had a plunge router, not a fixed base one.

 

[Barbarous]

By the way the Jasper jig doesn't use a fixed-base router-- I found to my dismay today-- it is designed for a plunge router. I attached the jig to the fixed base router then realized there is no way to get the guide pin in the hole with the router bit in the way. I'm a novice woodworker, so maybe there is a trick to it, but the jig directions are clearly for a plunge router.

I bought a cheap router at Home Depot so I could continue with a speaker project, a pair of North Creek Echos it's taken me more than a year to get around to building. Anyway with the plunge router the jig works very well.

 

[zkool448]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nebby /img/forum/go_quote.gif cyberspyder: What bits have you been using? I've gone thru a good amount of MDF without much dulling on my bits.

It's true they do get rather dull much quicker when working with MDF, however if you own very high quality bits (ex. Freud) then you do not notice it much. Their lifetime extend to about 5x longer (or more) than their lower quality equivalent.

 

[Nebby]

Quote:

Originally Posted by zkool448 /img/forum/go_quote.gif It's true they do get rather dull much quicker when working with MDF, however if you own very high quality bits (ex. Freud) then you do not notice it much. Their lifetime extend to about 5x longer (or more) than their lower quality equivalent.

It's good to hear first hand knowledge of this, as I've mostly only had experience with Freud bits.

 

[cyberspyder]

Yeah, we have some cheap bits from some shady places and they're worthless...buy quality the first time.

 

[ThePredator]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barbarous /img/forum/go_quote.gif By the way the Jasper jig doesn't use a fixed-base router-- I found to my dismay today-- it is designed for a plunge router. I attached the jig to the fixed base router then realized there is no way to get the guide pin in the hole with the router bit in the way. I'm a novice woodworker, so maybe there is a trick to it, but the jig directions are clearly for a plunge router. I bought a cheap router at Home Depot so I could continue with a speaker project, a pair of North Creek Echos it's taken me more than a year to get around to building. Anyway with the plunge router the jig works very well.

I plan on drilling a pilot for the router with a drill press.

 

[cyberspyder]

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThePredator /img/forum/go_quote.gif I plan on drilling a pilot for the router with a drill press.

No no no, he meant the jig won't touch the pin as the bit raises the jig above the piece...better to get a circle cutter then if you don't have a plunge router.

 

[ThePredator]

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyberspyder /img/forum/go_quote.gif No no no, he meant the jig won't touch the pin as the bit raises the jig above the piece...better to get a circle cutter then if you don't have a plunge router.

Unless I am misunderstanding you, if you drill a hole in on the edge of the circle to place the router bit, it should be able to work as if you had plunged it in.