[dongringo]

A cyclocross bike would be ideal in your situation if you could get used to the drop bars. One thing I know about hybrids is that the frames tend to be more compact putting you in a more upright position. While this can be more comfortable for some people, it's not ideal for speed or long distance. Oftentimes a road or cyclocross bike just takes some getting used to. Test riding some different bikes would be good. Plus, that way you can see what size will fit you best. The people at your local bike shop can also help you with that. For your price range, I've heard good things recently about Motobecane and Windsor bikes. I'm even thinking about getting a Moto single speed for running errands/going to the coffee shop, etc. Bikesdirect.com has some screaming deals. Whatever you do, make sure you sized up first. Happy hunting!

 

[Jaywalk3r]

I come from a BMX bike, which sucks when riding 30 miles. I love my dads crusing bike, but i need the speed of a road bike and the conditions around me are not road like material. I came to the conclusion that i like a cross-cycle bike, but dont like the handlebars and is why the hybrids are for me. Ill be using it daily for 30-60 mile bike rides, and the trails are usually gravel and sometimes pavement. I plan to spend around $700, and i want it to last, and if i need to ill buy a bike case.

Those conditions would be great for my commuter. I ride a Redline Monocog 29er. It's a fully rigid singlespeed 29er mountain bike. I have it set up for street duty, with Schwalbe Marathons (12,000+ miles with a flat while riding), front disk brake, and a higher gear ratio than it came with new. It's quite a bit like a hybrid, except the geometry is a little more aggressive. Plus, being a steel mountainbike, it can take more abuse than a road bike or hybrid. Of all the bikes I've owned/ridden, it's by far the most fun. If I rode it 60 miles at a time regularly, though, I'd get a Brooks saddle for it, since the stock saddle starts to get uncomfortable 40 - 50 miles into a ride.

 

[cifani090]

Quote:

A cyclocross bike would be ideal in your situation if you could get used to the drop bars. One thing I know about hybrids is that the frames tend to be more compact putting you in a more upright position. While this can be more comfortable for some people, it's not ideal for speed or long distance. Oftentimes a road or cyclocross bike just takes some getting used to. Test riding some different bikes would be good. Plus, that way you can see what size will fit you best. The people at your local bike shop can also help you with that. For your price range, I've heard good things recently about Motobecane and Windsor bikes. I'm even thinking about getting a Moto single speed for running errands/going to the coffee shop, etc. Bikesdirect.com has some screaming deals. Whatever you do, make sure you sized up first. Happy hunting!

Ill definitely be going to a bike shop to be fitted,etc. I liked the cross-cycle bikes,except the drop bars, which i could get used too, but is where the more comfortable hybrid bike came along which had the speed of a road bike and the comfortability of a cruiser.
 

 

[pigmode]

Dayam, just dayam...
 
http://www.ninerbikes.com/one9

 

[Jaywalk3r]

Dayam, just dayam...

http://www.ninerbikes.com/one9

I don't get why anyone would design a (new) singlespeed with an eccentric bottom bracket for chain tension. It's a great option if you're converting a geared bike with vertical dropouts to a singlespeed (or IGH), but if you're designing from scratch, there are better, simpler ways.

Having said that, fully rigid 29ers are a blast.

 

[pigmode]

Quote:

 
I don't get why anyone would design a (new) singlespeed with an eccentric bottom bracket for chain tension. It's a great option if you're converting a geared bike with vertical dropouts to a singlespeed (or IGH), but if you're designing from scratch, there are better, simpler ways.

Having said that, fully rigid 29ers are a blast.

 
The EBB might be a more complicated design, but doesn't it simplify dropout hardware, disc-pad  alignment/adjustment, and other related issues? 
 
I'll try one more time to sell the http://www.specialized.com/zz/en/bc/SBCBkModel.jsp?spid=45807&eid=4340&menuItemId=9253, then maybe convert it. Kind of sad for a 300 mi bike, and I can't even generate a ridiculous lowball on it.
 
Still, that Niner is friggen SWEET.

 

[Jaywalk3r]

The EBB might be a more complicated design, but doesn't it simplify dropout hardware, disc-pad  alignment/adjustment, and other related issues?

Disk brakes are indeed an important consideration with singlespeed design. For example, my Redline Monocog (which I love) has track fork ends and disk tabs. The disk tabs are completely useless, since sliding the rear axle in the fork ends will, at best, require the rear caliper be readjusted to the new disk position. (Fortunately, I have zero use for a rear disk brake on the bike.)

In my opinion, sliding dropouts are a more elegant solution with less potential for problems.

BTW, that's a nice Rockhopper you have.

 

[cifani090]

Also if i were to get a titanium mountain bike, it wouldn't be stupid of be to change the tired out on it for regular, less rough terrain tires,correct? Also, of course ill be change out the seat to a more comfortable seat.

 

[Jaywalk3r]

Also if i were to get a titanium mountain bike, it wouldn't be stupid of be to change the tired out on it for regular, less rough terrain tires,correct? Also, of course ill be change out the seat to a more comfortable seat.

As long as the wheels on the mountain bike aren't too wide, you should be able to find tires that are appropriate for any surface you want to ride on.

Keep in mind that mountain bikes with suspension are are much less well suited for extended street use than are fully rigid mountain bikes. The suspension sucks pedaling energy on pavement. Some suspension (front) forks can be locked out, so that there is no travel, but that usually defeats the purpose of using an expensive suspension fork.

 

[cifani090]

Quote:

As long as the wheels on the mountain bike aren't too wide, you should be able to find tires that are appropriate for any surface you want to ride on.
Keep in mind that mountain bikes with suspension are are much less well suited for extended street use than are fully rigid mountain bikes. The suspension sucks pedaling energy on pavement. Some suspension (front) forks can be locked out, so that there is no travel, but that usually defeats the purpose of using an expensive suspension fork.

Ya, and i hate wasting energy because im having to pedal soo hard. So i need full suspension, and not just one part of the suspension, front or rear.
 

 

[Jaywalk3r]

As long as the wheels on the mountain bike aren't too wide, you should be able to find tires that are appropriate for any surface you want to ride on.

Keep in mind that mountain bikes with suspension are are much less well suited for extended street use than are fully rigid mountain bikes. The suspension sucks pedaling energy on pavement. Some suspension (front) forks can be locked out, so that there is no travel, but that usually defeats the purpose of using an expensive suspension fork.

Ya, and i hate wasting energy because im having to pedal soo hard. So i need full suspension, and not just one part of the suspension, front or rear.

If you hate wasting energy, you don't want any suspension for riding on the street.

 

[cifani090]

Quote:

If you hate wasting energy, you don't want any suspension for riding on the street.

Well i wont be on the street, as a road bike would be best.... the conditions in my area are gravel/ pavement. Id like a hybrid, but titanium in not available in such a bike-yet.
 

 

[Jaywalk3r]

Well i wont be on the street, as a road bike would be best.... the conditions in my area are gravel/ pavement. Id like a hybrid, but titanium in not available in such a bike-yet.

Out of curiosity, why do you want titanium?

 

[cifani090]

Quote:

Out of curiosity, why do you want titanium?

Because i heard it does not rust, and over here we have winters and a certain family member throws them in the shed where all the water leaks down to (off the deck, to the shed). I am still obligated to buy a bike cover, but thats besides the point. Also its a little heavier that carbon fiber, and lighter than both steel and aluminum.
 

 

[Jaywalk3r]

Because i heard it does not rust, and over here we have winters and a certain family member throws them in the shed where all the water leaks down to (off the deck, to the shed). I am still obligated to buy a bike cover, but thats besides the point. Also its a little heavier that carbon fiber, and lighter than both steel and aluminum.

Titanium is a fine frame material, and I'm not trying to discourage you from getting it. Having said that, rust proofing steel frames is pretty trivial for any quality bike. Absolute worst case, you can do it yourself with a brand new bike. With an aluminum bike, oxidation literally forms a protective layer. Anodized aluminum is nothing more than aluminum with an oxidation layer, sometimes with some dye added for color, or a sealant to maintain a desired sheen.

Weight shouldn't be a factor when choosing a bike unless you are going to be competing at the highest levels. The need for lightweight bikes is a marketing ploy more than anything. It won't make anyone a stronger or faster rider, unless they are already very strong and very fast. I wish I had a dollar for every time I pedaled past a cyclist on an expensive carbon fiber bike with my steel 29er.

Above all else, buy what you will actually ride, because few things are worse than a bicycle collecting dust from long periods of non-use.