[KShaft]

Quote:

Originally Posted by EdipisReks i would buy a Ted Yost custom Delta Elite first

LMAO.
Dont forget SDM Fabricating! Hes about an hour drive from Elyria,Ohio. Probably like 3 from you.
And if youre really lucky, you can get a Marine 2112 to build a MEU-SOC for you, If there happens to be one on recruiting duty in your area....

k.s.

 

[MetalManCPA]

All I can say is - it must be nice to have money. If I had it, I probably would have nothing to say. But since I don't:

$5,000 for a headphone amp to me is ludicrous. Actually, anything over a few hundred dollars seems a bit extreme. But, it would be nice to have the choice and ability to think of such things. For now, Im still anxioulsy awaiting my $50 Pocket Amp2 V2.

 

[tennisets]

Although I've never heard the K1000s, one thing seems overwhelmingly obvious to me:

THESE HEADPHONES ARE JUST BEGGING FOR A DHT OUTPUT STAGE!

If you have never heard an amplifier that uses DHTs (Directly Heated Triodes) in the output stage, you are really, really missing out. Especially push pull versions. Mastergill reccommended the Manley Stingray that has a Triode output stage. The Stingray uses EL84s, a PENTODE tube, operating as a triode. This is accomplished by connecting the screen grid of the EL84 to the anode. Sure it sounds better than Ultralinear operation, but it still doesn't beat a true triode, and an Inderectly Heated Triode doesn't beat a DHT.

A well designed Push Pull (PP) DHT amp, in general, sounds better than an SET (Single Ended Triode). I've heard the difference. People rave about SETs, but a PP amp can have everything a great SET has and more (namely more controlled and powerful bass).

There are a few makers of PP DHT amps. Deja Vu Audio (incidentally in McLean, where I live) makes some of the best. Look them up. Check out their site at www.dejavuaudio.com. See if you can get a hold of the owner, Vu Hoang, and ask him about his amps. They start at $5000, I believe.

You want my opinion? A PP amp using 45s (the tube type) would blow everything else out of the water with the K1000. A PP 45 amp would output around 2 or 3W, plenty of power for these phones. 2A3s sound almost as good, and 300Bs, despite what people think of them, aren't even close.

I sincerely hope you don't drop 5K on that EAR without even looking into anything else first. Just because one person says something is the best (even if it's Todd) doesn't mean it IS the best. I guess this would apply to me too, but my opinion is a fairly widespread one. And I REALLY mean it.

PLEASE don't buy a $5000 amp without spending some time researching your different options. And for God's sake, at least TRY to listen to some amps before you buy one! What kind of person decides to drop 5K after only a couple hours of consideration, without even making sure he likes what he's buying?!

 

[Patrick82]

I would like both Krell KAV-400xi and EAR Yoshino V20. It's a tough choice.

I would like the Krell because it is cheaper and has more neutral and detailed sound but there are many problems:


Krell
It has more detail and you need a SACD to hear its full potential, but I don't have that, and SACD is dying anyways.
It is made in USA, so I have to import it and pay taxes and stuff.
It is 120 volts and needs an internal modification to change to 220 volts, I don't know how.
I don't listen to loud volume.
Only good for speakers, 200W per channel.


Yoshino V20
It is made in UK and I don't have to pay import taxes.
More than TWICE as expensive as Krell.
Good for low volume listening, which I do.
Can try other headphones with it (with custom cable).


I have never heard a tube amp so I don't know if I will like it or not. I don't have any possibility to audition one either.

Any ideas?

 

[Jon L]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tennisets Although If you have never heard an amplifier that uses DHTs (Directly Heated Triodes) in the output stage, you are really, really missing out. Especially push pull versions. A well designed Push Pull (PP) DHT amp, in general, sounds better than an SET (Single Ended Triode). You want my opinion? A PP amp using 45s (the tube type) would blow everything else out of the water with the K1000. A PP 45 amp would output around 2 or 3W, plenty of power for these phones. 2A3s sound almost as good, and 300Bs, despite what people think of them, aren't even close.

While you do make several points that border on profound truth, especially about well designed DHT triode PP being fabulous, I probably would not make general statements about 45 vs. 2A3 vs 300B. In fact, 45 push-pull would not be the perfect synergistic match with K1000 (which you haven't heard) as the stock K1000 would benefit from more lushness than provided by 45. 300B SET would be a bit too much, but 300B PP, that's where the game ends for K1000.

There are many not-so-great 300B tubes out there, but drop in some AVVT 300B tubes into a serious PP amp, and suddenly it becomes apparent 45/2A3/300B all represent just different ways to reaching the triode nirvana, not better or worse. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Sugano-san]

FWIW, the V20 is also a triode design:

"The output valves are the indirectly heated ECC83 twin triode type, 10 per channel, operated in a parallel push pull class “A” circuit featuring Enhanced Triode Mode, as used in both the EAR 859 Single-Ended Triode Amplifier, and the EAR 861 push-pull triode amplifier. This circuit provides superb linearity and very low distortion. In addition, the V20 uses Tim’s highly developed Balanced Bridge Mode ultra-wide-bandwidth output transformer, and no overall feedback."

 

[JzzMaTzz]

You might want to check out the Firstwatt F1 current drive amp. I currently own this in my K1000 setup and the sound is unbelievable, highly detailed and resolving. However, you will need a preamp which could be a good thing as you can voice it to your tastes. The F1 pushes 10 watts of current (not voltage) and is specifically designed to drive single driver speakers and that is exactly what headphones are. I added a link to a review of the F1, the K1000's are used somewhere in the middle of the review.

http://6moons.com/audioreviews/first...irstwatt3.html

 

[tennisets]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sugano-san FWIW, the V20 is also a triode design: "The output valves are the indirectly heated ECC83 twin triode type, 10 per channel, operated in a parallel push pull class “A” circuit featuring Enhanced Triode Mode, as used in both the EAR 859 Single-Ended Triode Amplifier, and the EAR 861 push-pull triode amplifier. This circuit provides superb linearity and very low distortion. In addition, the V20 uses Tim’s highly developed Balanced Bridge Mode ultra-wide-bandwidth output transformer, and no overall feedback."

As I said, indirectly heated triodes can't hold a candle to DHTs. I stand by that statement. Admittedly, the V20 is a pretty radical design (which I haven't heard, so keep that in mind), but I find it difficult to believe that something that complex, with that many tubes in parrallel (10 tubes per channel in PPP, that would be two sets of five tubes in parrallel), could sound as good as a nice, simple PP DHT design using 45s or 2A3s.

I don't doubt Tim de Paravicini as a designer, but I think that the V20 has to be one hell of an amp to overcome the inherent shortcomings of its topology and tube complement. Just my .02.

 

[aerius]

Wyetech Labs Topaz 572B. I heard them recently on an ex-coworker's Dynaudio Special 25 speakers, solidstate speed & detail with the magic goodness of tubes. Don't know how it would sound with K1000's though, no one I know within 500 miles of me has a pair of them.

 

[Ferbose]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick82 Since Sonic Impact T-Amp is the best in the $20-$1000 range

I don't think so.
I have T-amp and a Jolida JD301 integrated hybrid amp ($350).
I feel T-amp sounds too lean with K1000, and details seem a tad exaggerated.
Using warm-sounding Yugo 12AX7 on JD301, instrumental sounds possess more natural decays and smoothness. Also very easy sounding on ears for extended listening.
I however do find T-amp significantly better at driving my main speakers than JD301. See this thread for a discussion on this topic.
Response Audio used to sell a modified JD301 for $800. If you would drop another $200 for Telefunken 12AX7, I think the results would be amazing. I am already quite amazed at the musicality of stock JD301 plus K1000, and I would love to hear a souped JD301 can do!
Some people may be skeptical about the OP-amp in JD301, but it is the same LM1875 used in 47Lab Gaincard.
For LM1875, THD decreases going from 4 to 8 ohms. I wonder if it goes even lower for 120 ohm load (K1000). Maybe that explains why it seems to match K1000 really well.
For people using K1000 and T-amp, I strongly recommend JD301 because it is still affordable amplification considering the cost of K1000.

 

[Patrick82]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Canman I would upgrade the source before buying a $5000 amp though.

Would a McCormack UDP-1 $3500 be good enough, or should I get something better?

Are tube amps good enough for SACD and DVD-A?

 

[morsel]

Patrick82: Before you spend $5-10K on a commercial amp, consider an M³ for $300-500, which was designed with the K1000 in mind. I'm guessing at the price, you would have to consult with professional builders for exact details.

 

[00940]

Quote:

Originally Posted by JzzMaTzz You might want to check out the Firstwatt F1 current drive amp. I currently own this in my K1000 setup and the sound is unbelievable, highly detailed and resolving. However, you will need a preamp which could be a good thing as you can voice it to your tastes. The F1 pushes 10 watts of current (not voltage) and is specifically designed to drive single driver speakers and that is exactly what headphones are. I added a link to a review of the F1, the K1000's are used somewhere in the middle of the review. http://6moons.com/audioreviews/first...irstwatt3.html

I've never heard the F1 but the concept is /very/ appealing. Power for speakers is rather limited though if this is a concern.

 

[Canman]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Patrick82 Would a McCormack UDP-1 $3500 be good enough, or should I get something better? Are tube amps good enough for SACD and DVD-A?

That is entirely up to you. I would certainly spend more on my CD player than my interconnect.

 

[JzzMaTzz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by 00940 I've never heard the F1 but the concept is /very/ appealing. Power for speakers is rather limited though if this is a concern.

I believe this to be the perfect amp for the K1000's and feel that I won't have to upgrade, amplification wise, for a very long time if ever.