Aune T1 USB Tube DAC+ SS Amp Discussion Thread ***See first post for FAQ--Updated on 02/14/15***
Aug 17, 2014 at 12:13 PM Post #5,806 of 8,309
I'm not joking about mylars, if you have that much space and you can find 100V ones or lower at the right values they should fit.
 
Aug 17, 2014 at 1:12 PM Post #5,807 of 8,309
I think the main problem is fitting anything on the headphone amp board since it faces the main board.  Not much space there.
 
One possibility is mounting all the caps on a separate prototype board just to hold them, and then run wires to the main board.
 
I didn't look too closely, but there's a lot of surface mounted stuff on there, although this might mainly be resistors.  I think some of those could be replaced and moved off the board - the cheap stuff is often not very thermally stable (this makes up most of the accuracy rating) so when the tube heats up gains drift.  When I soldered up headphone and RCA jacks with resistors for signal measurement I checked the resistance on the plug end immediately after soldering, and it started about 2% low and crept up as it cooled off.  I could see it tick up on theFluke 179.  Another case for a separate sub-board and wires to mount points...
 
Aug 17, 2014 at 6:53 PM Post #5,809 of 8,309
  Here's how I did it.  I found some 55mm M3x0.5 screws and 20mm M3 round nylon standoffs (would have preferred silver, steel).  Put a screw through each hole, added a standoff, then two layers of heatshrink.  The heatshrink makes the screws fit reasonably tightly in the screw guides on the main part.  Topped it off with some picture frame rubber bumpers, but I'm sure there are better feet out there.  Or you could reuse the original clear ones.
 
My original plan was to use 20mm standoffs and 60mm screws, then screw it on properly.  But the only ones I could find were flat heads, not beveled so I went with plan B.
 
Bottom cover, screws, heatshrink, standoffs.  (Two corners already done.)
 

 
Screw:
 

 
Slip on the standoff:
 

 
First heatshrink:
 

 
Second (heatgun for illustration only, wasn't running):
 

 
All four corners done:
 

 
Slip shrinkwrapped screw ends into the main enclosure:
 

 
Bumpons:
 

 
Final result!
 

 
For now, I decided to go with what you've done... changed a little of it though.  Had some nice black rubber tubing into which I placed some grabber screws.  Opened the holes in the bottom piece to allow the screws a little more room.  Works for now.  I've pretty much decided my next purchase will be the new McIntosh headphone amp but I need to win the lottery first.  Until that happens, this will just have to do... :) 
 
Aug 17, 2014 at 9:26 PM Post #5,810 of 8,309
Love the posts with info on the cap upgrades guys... great information. 
 
 
A quick update for anyone who enjoys the T1 and wonders if things can sound better - YES!! Haha.
 
I've been playing around with the Woo Audio WA2 I got second hand. My chain right now is the T1 with ELNA Silmic II capacitors with an Amperex 7308 PQ White label tube -> Cardas RCA cables -> the Woo WA2 with Sylvania 7236 power tubes, cheap EZ80 rectifier tubes, and Amperex OG 6922s -> HD650 headphones.
 
Here is what changed from listening via the headphone output on the Aune T1...
 
- Major change of a huge improvement in soundstage (width especially, but also a bit of height). It's CRAZY how easy it is to pick everything out of the mix now. Literally unbelievable to me. Layering in instruments, vocals, synth... there is a new dimension to my songs.
- More micro details in the background of songs... the weird thing is they're across the board; bass, mids and highs. I am crazy about picking out details as I audition different equipment, but these details are apparent even without a discerning listen. It always brings a smile to my face discovering unheard details.
- 3d imaging is also improved. I think the things that I love about the OG tubes are even more apparent... decay and reverb are superb. Nothing is pushed in my face either... I always felt the T1 did a good job with presentation, so I'm glad it remains this way.
 
I just wanted to bring this up because the DAC in the T1 is still pushing the music through... I want the headphone amp in the T1 to be my end game, but this just proves to me that the music can go further.
 
Aug 18, 2014 at 2:58 PM Post #5,814 of 8,309
 
- Major change of a huge improvement in soundstage (width especially, but also a bit of height). It's CRAZY how easy it is to pick everything out of the mix now. Literally unbelievable to me. Layering in instruments, vocals, synth... there is a new dimension to my songs.

Yeah, the amp stage of the Aune T1 is clearly the weak link.  The DAC is quite competent and while I can tell a difference when feeding my Valhalla 2 vs the Bifrost Uber, it's a more subtle difference.  It's back at work now though and while it's a huge step up from the MacBook Pro headphone jack I miss the spacious, open soundstage sense of detail from the Bifrost-Valhalla2-Beyer T1...  So here I am thinking of adding an O2, or a Little Dot.  Does it ever end?!
 
Aug 18, 2014 at 5:05 PM Post #5,815 of 8,309
  Looks like one other person confirmed they don't have 24 bit output either. So there is two of us, but worse still is the three people who have non-functional power switches. 


Mine lacks 24 bit as well running win8.
 
Anyone have any recommendations for a European based tube seller?? (avoiding ebay) I'm after a pair of NOS rockets, and maybe a few other cheap tubes for trial rolling. Still on the Chinese tube at the minute and fancy a change.
 
Ta.
 
Edit - I've been considering bypassing the amp section of the t1 and using the little dot mk2 instead. Anyone done similar?
 
Aug 19, 2014 at 6:22 PM Post #5,816 of 8,309
Hey guys,
I've finally finished reading the whole thread, took me a week lol. Anyway, got the t1 a week ago and i like it, but have yet to be wowed. With my hd580s, recently given the once over by sennheiser, foobar with wasapi plug in, and both the eh it came with and a gold lion I'm a bit underwhelmed. Will the 7308 everyone raves about make a big difference? I listen to mostly classic rock with some newer stuff thrown in, all wavs and flaks. Any advice?
 
Aug 19, 2014 at 6:32 PM Post #5,817 of 8,309
A little background, I used to have spectral components, a vintage thorens turntable with a sumiko tone arm and cartridge, theta transport and dac, and dahlquist dq20s. Sold most of it off years ago and got in to other things. Lately I've been missing the old good sounds but figured it would be much cheaper to go the headphone and amp route. Should I have bought a higher end dac/amp? Or could I possibly be happy if I order the 7308? Thanks guys.
Marc
 
Aug 19, 2014 at 6:45 PM Post #5,818 of 8,309
A little background, I used to have spectral components, a vintage thorens turntable with a sumiko tone arm and cartridge, theta transport and dac, and dahlquist dq20s. Sold most of it off years ago and got in to other things. Lately I've been missing the old good sounds but figured it would be much cheaper to go the headphone and amp route. Should I have bought a higher end dac/amp? Or could I possibly be happy if I order the 7308? Thanks guys.
Marc

If you don't want to spend too much on a tube, I suggest the 1969 Holland Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8. I wasn't impressed with the stock tube either, but the OG completely blew my mind. It's hard for me to imagine how much more improvement the 7308 will provide.
 
Aug 19, 2014 at 7:01 PM Post #5,819 of 8,309
Thanks for the reply. I can do the 50 bucks for the tube. I'm not an eBay fan and would rather get it from a reputable seller. The only reason I got the gold lion is because someone on the thread said it was good for rock and I'm a prime member and it is so easy lol. I'm also kind of bummed because I bought this primarily to do USB out on my HTC one m8 witch has around 2000 songs on it that are mostly lossless. What I didn't realize at the time was you can't turn off the boomsound feature with USB out, which is a terrible, and I really don't want to root the phone. Oh well...
Marc
 

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