[Paspie]

I'm on openSUSE 13.1, my laptop is a ThinkPad T510.

 

[NCSUZoSo]

  Yeah, D8 and D11 are definitely per left and right channel.
 
Ohming out the stock dips, on is completely closed (has 0 ohms), and off is completely open (high resistance). (I'm ohming from the solder joints under the dip switches... from "1" across to the "On" side, and "2" to the "On" side.)
You could easily check the dips you installed the same way... I'm also reading continuity from 1 to 2 on both dips.
 
As for the DAC and RCA amp, it should operate 100% fine without the headphone amp board installed... you can pull the headphone amp portion out, and plug the RCA outputs to another amp and everything should work fine using the USB input. If that doesn't work, something is shot on the main board.
 
Kind of hard to diagnose without a schematic, and since Aune doesn't have one posted, someone would have to find a way to trace everything out and draw a schematic. You could try emailing Aune and requesting a copy of a schematic... Let me know if you want me to make any other readings that may help.
 
edit: ok sounds like your DAC/amp portion is working fine, just have a problem with the headphone amp. Order another one from Aune maybe?  @creatip ordered one for $8... 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/633006/aune-t1-usb-tube-dac-amp-discussion-thread-see-first-post-for-faq/6465#post_11160858 

 
 
If they are selling replacement amp PCBs for $8, that probably means they had $5 or so invested in them..  That almost makes me want to buy something to replace the internal amp, but obviously I still want the stock one to work.
 
@creatip said he bought more than one, maybe he'd sell one of his extras or maybe even trade for some nice capacitors I ended up with as extras

 
Thanks for the info, I missed his post on buying replacements.
 
 
Edit:
 
I may be able to use my Creative ZXR's Aux In and compare it against my Yamaha's.  That is if I can set the T1 as the default device and get output from my ZXR's headphone amp, but if I had to guess I'd say that won't work.  Doing that may take using two computers 

  I wish I could figure out why I can't get a clean signal out of my receiver.  First thing I guess is to try another RCA cable, but the one I have is a quality cable.

 

[NCSUZoSo]

I just found the problem with my amp PCB, I've got two resistors that are damaged.  I guess those green lights don't mean that much..
 
No idea how that happened, but I'm definitely going to need one of those awesome $8 PCBs!

 

[mikoss]

  I just found the problem with my amp PCB, I've got two resistors that are damaged.  I guess those green lights don't mean that much..
 
No idea how that happened, but I'm definitely going to need one of those awesome $8 PCBs!

It's all good... welcome to the club. You, me and @creatip are exclusive members 

 Unless someone else managed to wreck their T1 temporarily and kept it a secret...

 

[Rozenberg]

Uuurgh.... still waiting for my 6N23P-EB tube..... It takes long...
So far loving my T1, but just want to try warmer sound on my K7XX. Is there any (cheap) tube that colors the sound?

 

[creatip]

  Uuurgh.... still waiting for my 6N23P-EB tube..... It takes long...
So far loving my T1, but just want to try warmer sound on my K7XX. Is there any (cheap) tube that colors the sound?

 
Any tube will color the sound. That's the main reason people go with tubes, and consequently the main reason purists (those who're seeking to get the most transparent audio as possible) hate tube devices.
 
Vokshod should be cheap and warm. 

 

[Rozenberg]

   
Any tube will color the sound. That's the main reason people go with tubes, and consequently the main reason purists (those who're seeking to get the most transparent audio as possible) hate tube devices.
 
Vokshod should be cheap and warm. 

 
Maybe I just got bored with stock tube sound. I wanna test first how the sound changes.

 

[SpiderNhan]

@Rozenberg
 
I highly suggest a Holland Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8. They're relatively cheap and not far off sounding from the more expensive (some consider top of the line) Amperex 7308. I wasn't so keen on what different tubes would sound like, but the difference between the AOG 6DJ8 and the EH6922 is literally night and day. I'm so sure of it that I will buy your AOG 6DJ8 off of you if you don't like it.

 

[Rozenberg]

  @Rozenberg
 
I highly suggest a Holland Amperex Orange Globe 6DJ8. They're relatively cheap and not far off sounding from the more expensive (some consider top of the line) Amperex 7308. I wasn't so keen on what different tubes would sound like, but the difference between the AOG 6DJ8 and the EH6922 is literally night and day. I'm so sure of it that I will buy your AOG 6DJ8 off of you if you don't like it.

 
Kinda hard to find it in Europe
Closest I could find is in UK for 19 pounds excl. shipping
Well, I gotta see how my russian tube gonna perform first

 

[tiobilli]

Can It be used with 9V batteries with some adaptor like this one?:

http://www.ebay.es/itm/390939552444?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 

[NCSUZoSo]

Can someone give me the resistor values for R58 and R59 on the amp PCB?  If I am lucky they are something common and I have through hole resistors that will work in my collection.
 
Although, I had my mind semi-blown last night once I had the amp PCB removed from the T1 and ran it through my Yamaha RX-V863.  I guess having two blown resistors on the amp PCB was introducing noise into the circuit, even when using the line out. 
 
Once I removed the amp PCB and tried a different line in on my Yamaha the T1 suddenly sounded better than I have ever heard it before.  The sound signature was warmer and had a fullness that was lacking before.  Also keep in mind this is with a new set of HP150 headphones that haven't even been broken in yet.  There is no doubt once I have the money to spend on more audio equipment I will get something like the Schiit Magni.  That $8 amp PCB is definitely the bottleneck of the T1, but for the size of the unit and the price, I understand why they had to go with such a weak amp.  Is there something a little cheaper than the Schiit Magni that you all would recommend for pairing with the T1?

 

[creatip]

Can It be used with 9V batteries with some adaptor like this one?:

http://www.ebay.es/itm/390939552444?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

There's a big chance the battery, or the unit, or both gonna fry. Reason? The power supply included clearly state that the output is AC, not DC. I did similar mistake once, plugging a DC power supply to an AC device, the DC power supply went pop, and smelled like fried rotten egg. 

  Can someone give me the resistor values for R58 and R59 on the amp PCB?  If I am lucky they are something common and I have through hole resistors that will work in my collection.
 
Although, I had my mind semi-blown last night once I had the amp PCB removed from the T1 and ran it through my Yamaha RX-V863.  I guess having two blown resistors on the amp PCB was introducing noise into the circuit, even when using the line out. 
 
Once I removed the amp PCB and tried a different line in on my Yamaha the T1 suddenly sounded better than I have ever heard it before.  The sound signature was warmer and had a fullness that was lacking before.  Also keep in mind this is with a new set of HP150 headphones that haven't even been broken in yet.  There is no doubt once I have the money to spend on more audio equipment I will get something like the Schiit Magni.  That $8 amp PCB is definitely the bottleneck of the T1, but for the size of the unit and the price, I understand why they had to go with such a weak amp.  Is there something a little cheaper than the Schiit Magni that you all would recommend for pairing with the T1?

 
Those little button like things that look kinda like the LED, right? I measured 23 on my DMM. I measured all 6 of them (in case I got the wrong one), and they all measured the same, 23. 

 

[mikoss]

Bringing this up since we're talking about the gain dips lately...
 
I always heard everyone who was asked on this thread recommend using the highest gain setting for higher impedance headphones (like the HD-650's, at 300 ohms nominal impedance), so I had my dips at +16db forever... recently I decided to put them back down to 0db just to see if it made a difference...
 
I'm almost certain it has made a difference... I hear more audible decay especially with vocals (reverb that wasn't audible at +16db). It also sounds more "tubey" and less crisp/solid state. I hear a noticeable more amount of "bloom" which really makes me think setting the gain higher might be compressing things somehow, and/or resulting in a minor loss of dynamics.
 
I have the volume pot dialled much higher than normal, to achieve the same listening volume as usual, but I still have plenty of room, so I'm leaving my dips at 0db. I prefer this sound.
 
 
Would enjoy having some impressions from people who were also rocking 8 or 16db and try going back to 0db for a bit. (I would also love doing a blind listening test as well... any idea if the dips can safely be changed on the fly?)
 
 
edit: Also reminds me of a wicked little experiment I might try this year and involve everyone in... I'd like to find something that can record in decent quality and swap different tubes through the T1, then allow people to download clips with different tubes and try and match the recordings to which tube they came from. If I ever do find something capable of recording in decent quality, I could try comparing dip settings on the headphone out... but that may be tough going headphone out -> recorder. (might mess the headphone amp up driving into the recorder)
 
edit 2: this sounds much, much better. I'm hearing lots of details I never heard if many of the songs I listen to daily... little bits of guitar/piano/bass in the background of Stan Getz - Girl from Ipanema, as well as much more details in the vocals throughout the song... I think 0db has definitely improved the T1 for my headphones considerably.

 

[creatip]

  Bringing this up since we're talking about the gain dips lately...
 
I always heard everyone who was asked on this thread recommend using the highest gain setting for higher impedance headphones (like the HD-650's, at 300 ohms nominal impedance), so I had my dips at +16db forever... recently I decided to put them back down to 0db just to see if it made a difference...
 
I'm almost certain it has made a difference... I hear more audible decay especially with vocals (reverb that wasn't audible at +16db). It also sounds more "tubey" and less crisp/solid state. I hear a noticeable more amount of "bloom" which really makes me think setting the gain higher might be compressing things somehow, and/or resulting in a minor loss of dynamics.
 
I have the volume pot dialled much higher than normal, to achieve the same listening volume as usual, but I still have plenty of room, so I'm leaving my dips at 0db. I prefer this sound.
 
 
Would enjoy having some impressions from people who were also rocking 8 or 16db and try going back to 0db for a bit. (I would also love doing a blind listening test as well... any idea if the dips can safely be changed on the fly?)
 
 
edit: Also reminds me of a wicked little experiment I might try this year and involve everyone in... I'd like to find something that can record in decent quality and swap different tubes through the T1, then allow people to download clips with different tubes and try and match the recordings to which tube they came from. If I ever do find something capable of recording in decent quality, I could try comparing dip settings on the headphone out... but that may be tough going headphone out -> recorder. (might mess the headphone amp up driving into the recorder)
 
edit 2: this sounds much, much better. I'm hearing lots of details I never heard if many of the songs I listen to daily... little bits of guitar/piano/bass in the background of Stan Getz - Girl from Ipanema, as well as much more details in the vocals throughout the song... I think 0db has definitely improved the T1 for my headphones considerably.

 
Yeah, the gain is 'dirty'. I kept it at 8 (or 10?) dB because at 0 it's a bit lacking for HE400. 
 
For your idea, you could try plugging it to line-in of your onboard/sound card, and record it with audacity or something. I tried this once, but I think the ADC of the onboard is altering the sound a bit. It sounds a bit different. 

 

[GoroUnreal]

Just got my T1 MK2 but found that the on/off switch broke after first usage (it's now loose and takes quite a while to get it to work). Just wondering if there is anything special with the on/off switch like needing to push it in when flicking it (noticed my on/off switch can be pushed in), or did I simply get a faulty switch. I'm awaiting a replacement and didn't want the same thing to occur if it was my fault.