[Somatic]

So have you changed the fuse in a Hypsos? Measured it?
If yes, does the measurement agee with proposed Direction? Top=left, Bottom=right, meaning S on top R at the Bottom? Thanks!

I am on vacation. Will check it out in 1 week or so. Will let you know the proper orientation. I’m A bit OCD about things like this. Haha

 

[DaveStarWalker]

SR Purple are $200. I’m fine with this price. No arrow needed. They go from left to right. S to R

The right direction is actually the direction of the writing.

 

[johnjen]

So have you changed the fuse in a Hypsos? Measured it?
If yes, does the measurement agee with proposed Direction? Top=left, Bottom=right, meaning S on top R at the Bottom? Thanks!

No, I don't own a Hypsos.
But I have used this method for every other piece of gear that I have changed out the fuses with (amps, dacs, my AOIP system etc.)
And like I mentioned after ≈1hr of continuous listening and then swapping the fuse end for end it was rather obvious to me which way was 'correct' which is how I came up with the reading the text as the direction of flow of energy thru the fuse method.

But try it yourself and verify if this agrees with your own determination.

JJ

 

[johnjen]

So these guys have "mid Level" fuses for £620 and they put an arrow on them. In every other post people argue if fuses are directional or not...
easy peasy, right?

The prices are totally crazy.

The most pricey must be about 9000 dollars....

I agree that the prices for these expendable 'safety' devices is out of line and WAY over the top.
And if the results weren't as great, I doubt I'd be even worrying about fussing with them, like at all.

As for arguing if they are "directional or not…"
For some folks they may not be and so the fuses can be readily returned.
But for those who have sufficiently resolving systems and enough listening experience to know what to listen for, fuses can open up a degree of resolution and inner detail that is hard to NOT enjoy.

But in this case, direct personal experience trumps all opinions, and as we all know arguing on the internet is rife with unverified opinions.

Of course YMMV and all that.

JJ

 

[DaveStarWalker]

I agree that the prices for these expendable 'safety' devices is out of line and WAY over the top.
And if the results weren't as great, I doubt I'd be even worrying about fussing with them, like at all.

As for arguing if they are "directional or not…"
For some folks they may not be and so the fuses can be readily returned.
But for those who have sufficiently resolving systems and enough listening experience to know what to listen for, fuses can open up a degree of resolution and inner detail that is hard to NOT enjoy.

But in this case, direct personal experience trumps all opinions, and as we all know arguing on the internet is rife with unverified opinions.

Of course YMMV and all that.

JJ

For me it's simple. In more than 25 years of audiophile journey, the fuses are the most incredible thing I know.

But like many other things, it's only interesting when the system is fully developed (ie balanced essentially).

If it's the case, it is just mind-blowing.

I stopped at the Purple (all my gears = 3,so it's OK... ). Before that, I had Blue everywhere and already I couldn't imagine how it could be even better. I was wrong. Amazing. Just amazed.

 

[bagwell359]

Ummm. I just rewire fuses and input caps right out of the way. Purist!

 

[Somatic]

Ummm. I just rewire fuses and input caps right out of the way. Purist!

How do
You do this? Any it might fry your amp?

 

[bagwell359]

How do
You do this? And it might fry your amp?

If you are not handy with a soldering iron and disassembling things and reinstalling them differently - don't do it.

Fuses were a fine idea way back when. But if you have some crummy fuse holder with some metal with poor resistance behavior with a meh solder job and a non linear fuse - well maybe you want to better that. Watch out for resale if you can't reverse it.

Plus I haven't owned an amp, pre-amp, rec, not to mention speakers that were not rock solid since 1982-83 when I briefly owned an Electroacompaneit 25/25 and then a VTL 120 (807's). I think I added fuses to those....

 

[Somatic]

You should be able to find a ≈$10-20 dvm from a whole bunch of sources, for example…
https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=digital voltage meter

All you really need it for, in this case, is the continuity/resistance check function.

As for operation, one set of pins should read at or very near 0.0 Ω's while others should read higher, or as 'open' (infinite).
So use the set of pins with the lowest reading.
Just make sure that the device is unplugged from the ac wall socket BEFORE you start poking around with your DVM probes.

JJ

Would this work? Thanks.

INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://a.co/d/j42VCOo

 

[johnjen]

Yes, it has the Ω test along with a myriad of other tests.

JJ

 

[Seamaster]

Would this work? Thanks.

INNOVA 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://a.co/d/j42VCOo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SHLS639/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just bought this one because I got tired replacing the 9V batteries, so far it is very accurate, specially when test capacitors.

 

[Somatic]

@johnjen @Seamaster

New to using a DVM. Where do I connect the red wire? Thanks.

 

[Somatic]

@johnjen @Seamaster

New to using a DVM. Where do I connect the red wire? Thanks.

@johnjen @Seamaster

Ok figured it out. Watched some tutorial videos. Now I am wondering where do I stick these probes? Please advise. Thanks.

Edit: Damn Ferrum stack burned some rubber rings on my wooden desk lol

 

[johnjen]

Unplug the device from ac power, then put the DVM into Ω mode (which is also the continuity test mode) and use the 2 probes to find the one IEC connection that shows a reading of 0.0Ω (or very close to that) to one end of the fuse holder without any fuse installed.

Or use the DVM's continuity test and wait for the beep when the 'correct' IEC connection and the 'correct' end of the fuse holder are being touched by the 2 probes.
It doesn't matter which probe is used for which connection.

The IEC connector has 3 pins and the 'center' pin is ground, you do not need to test that pin, which leaves the other 2 pins to test to either end of the 'empty' fuse holder connections.

When the DVM beeps and or show's 0.0Ω, that fuse holder connection is the 'source of power' side of the fuse holder and so the beginning of the text (as you read it) on the fuse should connect to that fuse connection.

JJ

 

[Somatic]

Unplug the device from ac power, then put the DVM into Ω mode (which is also the continuity test mode) and use the 2 probes to find the one IEC connection that shows a reading of 0.0Ω (or very close to that) to one end of the fuse holder without any fuse installed.

Or use the DVM's continuity test and wait for the beep when the 'correct' IEC connection and the 'correct' end of the fuse holder are being touched by the 2 probes.
It doesn't matter which probe is used for which connection.

The IEC connector has 3 pins and the 'center' pin is ground, you do not need to test that pin, which leaves the other 2 pins to test to either end of the 'empty' fuse holder connections.

When the DVM beeps and or show's 0.0Ω, that fuse holder connection is the 'source of power' side of the fuse holder and so the beginning of the text (as you read it) on the fuse should connect to that fuse connection.

JJ

Ok in Ω mode, only that combination has a signal. Doesn't say 0.0Ω ... just fluctuates with a bunch of different numbers. All the other combinations do not have signal.

Does this mean source in the bottom of this fuse holder? If so, I have my fuse backwards. Thanks.