[PeterCraig]

Me staring at some new parts just delivered so that I can reterminate my headphone cable thinking "there must be a good YouTube video to help with this project".

I have a soldering iron that hasn't seen action for a very long time. Probably the last time was on an old car.

But I will keep that tip in mind.

 

[sajunky]

Kingwa once said in the forum that he's a staunch anti-fuse guy, and he went to great length to hide the fuse from places we can reach by hand. For EI core transformers, the solution is to build the fuse inside the transformer. You heard me right, for models that have EI transformers such as the NFB1AMP or C2, you can't replace the fuse unless you saw the transformer in half. So what about models that have toroids such as the P3S and Master 10? Well, like the master of digital design he is, Kingwa again took it upon himself to make sure no one can have access to the fuse without breaking or sawing something in half. In this case, the fuse is hidden somewhere deep in the PCB board. No one knows where it is, and after unscrewing a total of 59 screws, and removing every metal plate and things that holds the amp in place, I gave up.

Remember, Kingwa is perfectionist, so no modular design, connectors, etc...

This is old post, but so funny, I couldn't resist.
Why do you think there are heatshrinks on the wires coming out of transformer? You can find fuses easily, there soldered directly to the wires, it means no poor contacts, there is no need for a dirty DIY work.

 

[PeterCraig]

Couldn't agree more.

This is off topic, but I modified the X14's and replaced the caps (for high-pass) in the signal path to the tweeter. I am not recommending it, unless you are a DIY'er (I built my own speakers, back when Dynaudio sold raw drivers). The Emit's and Excite's use the inexpensive Bennic brand. I replaced the 4.7uF Bennic with a Jantzen Silver Z-Cap same value. There is noticeable improvement (better transparency, more detail, smoother highs overall) from the relative inexpensive modification.

I got a pair of X14. Same width as the M10 which is all I had room for on the desk. So it was the perfect upgrade path.

Easier for the Precision 3 to drive, hardly have to turn up the volume. Maybe a little too much bass for my neighbours though Punches harder.

 

[lambdastorm]

Remember, Kingwa is perfectionist, so no modular design, connectors, etc...

This is old post, but so funny, I couldn't resist.
Why do you think there are heatshrinks on the wires coming out of transformer? You can find fuses easily, there soldered directly to the wires, it means no poor contacts, there is no need for a dirty DIY work.

A stranger on the internet knows more about the amp from a picture than the guy who's owned the amp for 2+ years. Sure. How about an answer from Mr. Kingwa himself?

Maybe with all those 'electrical knowledge' of yours you can file a patent of a fuse inside a cable. I'm sure it'll sell well.

 

[atmfrank]

Easier for the Precision 3 to drive, hardly have to turn up the volume. Maybe a little too much bass for my neighbours though Punches harder.

My neighbors don't hear a thing, even at full throttle. I have yet to drive this combo into distortion range and even at uncomfortable loudness levels, the bass remains tight and controlled. At that level it's hard to subjectively assess other aspects of sound quality, but they sound like larger speakers than the size suggests. To me it confirms that the X14/P3 combo is an awesome performing unit.

I have another P3 operating in the bedroom, fed directly by a SMSL SU-9 (with either USB or a RPI3/DigiOne streamer and COAX).

 

[sajunky]

A stranger on the internet knows more about the amp from a picture than the guy who's owned the amp for 2+ years. Sure. How about an answer from Mr. Kingwa himself?

Maybe with all those 'electrical knowledge' of yours you can file a patent of a fuse inside a cable. I'm sure it'll sell well.

Finally we found a fuse!!!

It is a good news for all of us, perhaps not so good for the "audiophile fuse" fans, but I don't care.