Audio Gd Precision 3 - Impressions Thread
Aug 1, 2018 at 7:14 AM Post #31 of 51
Ordered one this week. I’m in the process of rebuilding my system(s) nearly from scratch. At first it will be used to power some bookshelves in my main system, and later I may use this and additional Precision 3s to power my centre channel and rear speakers (as balanced mono blocks), or in our bedroom setup. One day I’d like to try his Master 2H monos.

His new A1 looks nifty too. From what I can gather, it appears to be more or less two Precision 3s combined in one chassis. But perhaps there are further refinements.
 
Aug 22, 2018 at 2:29 AM Post #32 of 51
I had a P3 for about 4 weeks. Driving a pair of 85dB Dynaudio Excite 14's and I am very happy with the performance. Get's better with each week in operation. Front-end is a Raspberry 3B+ and Allo DAC (no pre-amp). Sound quality is amazing for an amp in this price range. Transparent, neutral, silky smooth with good low-freq control at every output level. Overall quite addictive actually (no fatigue). It uses an unusual old patented DC current gain design.

I consider buying another one and run it in dual-mono to replace an aging MacCormack DNA .5 (150w/ch). Then again, in the current configuration, it makes a perfect and compact 2nd system for the bedroom.
 
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Jan 19, 2019 at 5:37 PM Post #33 of 51
I love my Precision 3. It's quite remarkable for the money, and it's just rather nice, irrespective of price. I prefer it to the Schiit Vidar with my Kef Reference 102/2s, despite the Vidar having considerably more output power. It sounds better in the mids and upper registers than the Vidar. It's probably slightly rolled off on top. It definitely makes for a smooth, pleasant, and fairly musical yet detailed listen.

Like atmfrank, I'd like to try a pair in balanced mono configuration. I had planned to get a pair of the newly updated 3S', along with an R-28 for my main system, but for now I'm instead gonna move further up the Audio-gd line. Once that happens, I plan to use this Precision 3 to power the rear speakers in my 5.1 system.
 
Apr 22, 2019 at 2:42 AM Post #34 of 51
Today I took the liberty of taking apart my Precision 3S, and what I found is nothing short of astounding. As it turns out, these guys at Audio-GD not only over-engineer their stuff, they also go to great length to prevent modders from having full access to their PCB. You would think removing the top cover grants you access to whatever's inside.

W.R.O.N.G.

Here's what the amp looks like with the top cover removed:
jyWxGRC.jpg


To my great surprise, everything is hand-soldered to the PCB. The total connector count here is ZERO. To give you some context, most modern amps or dacs are modular, which means they have little faston connectors that connects the transformer to the PCB. In case anything fails, you can unplug the connector, unscrew a few screws and pull the PCB out for repair. Say, if an amp has enough years on it, the capacitors are usually the first ones to go out and that's why sometimes re-capping is the only thing needed to bring a 40-year-old amp back to life. What Audio-GD did here is totally out of the norm: everything is soldered in place, from the AC inlet that transmits power to the transformer to the wires that goes from the transformer to the PCB. Not a single connector to be spotted. And the reason is definitely NOT because they don't have repairs in mind.

Kingwa once said in the forum that he's a staunch anti-fuse guy, and he went to great length to hide the fuse from places we can reach by hand. For EI core transformers, the solution is to build the fuse inside the transformer. You heard me right, for models that have EI transformers such as the NFB1AMP or C2, you can't replace the fuse unless you saw the transformer in half. So what about models that have toroids such as the P3S and Master 10? Well, like the master of digital design he is, Kingwa again took it upon himself to make sure no one can have access to the fuse without breaking or sawing something in half. In this case, the fuse is hidden somewhere deep in the PCB board. No one knows where it is, and after unscrewing a total of 59 screws, and removing every metal plate and things that holds the amp in place, I gave up.

The same thing can be said about capacitors. I don't know Kingwa's stance regarding boutique capacitors, but this PCB is literally his way of saying EFF you, these caps are staying and you have no way of replacing them without causing some serious damage. I just happen to have some 50V 10000uF UCC high-ripple capacitors lying around, and after seeing the layout of the PCB and how everything is hand soldered to the PCB, I don't think any modders can, or will put a finger on this thing. What got me scratching my head is that this design actually makes repair that much harder as well. Say, 10 years has passed and one day a cap starts to leak or blows itself. Not finding any ways to pull the PCB out, you send the amp back to Audio-GD. What can they do? To pull the PCB out, they too have to desolder every joint and A LOT of screws before they can even move anything. If this amp doesn't use good parts or isn't built like a tank it is, there's no way Audio-GD is still in business. Repairing this amp is going to be way harder than even building one.

To sum it all up, the P3S is a nice-sounding piece of gear, and Audio-GD's philosophy of building the world's best sounding gear with the least modder friendly design definitely applies. For more details regarding why you can't mod this amp and how Kingwa went to great length to design a literally un-moddable amp, here's an 8 minutes video of me rambling about the internals of the P3S and Audio-GD's ludicrous design in general. Have fun.

 
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Jan 2, 2021 at 7:30 PM Post #36 of 51
I'm at the 400 hour burn mark in with a new P3 for my desktop/movie system.

I'll post some impressions when I get a pair of second hand Dynaudio EMIT M10 in there on Tuesday. Already very impressed.
 
Jan 6, 2021 at 8:44 AM Post #37 of 51
I just moved to a new house and have been using the P3 instead of Master 3 just because takung out the M3 from its box is too much hassle.

I know that M3 will sound better, but the P3 is not that far behind.
 
Jan 6, 2021 at 12:24 PM Post #39 of 51
Isn't the M3 just a double P3 version, with two of everything: transformers, power supplies, pre-stages, diamond-cross output stages? I recently obtained the "2020" version of the P3s. I sometimes wonder about the mysterious version designations, which they could definitely improve. It's not fully burned in yet. But I have the previous P3s in operations for over a year and that one has a very sweet and addictive characteristic, in line with what other posters already mentioned. I am driving my new Dynaudio Contour 20's with it, which are nominal 4 Ohm speakers and on the low side of efficiency (86dB). I was worried driving a set of demanding speakers, but so far the P3s holds up well. I cannot play a very high volumes for a prolonged time, due to the size of my city apartment and Covid restrictions. But the few times I cranked it up, presumably past the class-A pre-stage, I came back thinking, "wow, this little amp is perfect for an audiophile experience in confined, sub-optional environments". For the relatively low price/high quality ratio I am more forgiving about the versioning issues/improvements (suppressing thought: why didn't he think about these in the first place?). For roughly $500 USD, I don't think there is anything better on the market in the non Class-D field.
 
Jan 9, 2021 at 7:31 PM Post #40 of 51
550 hours on my Precision 3 now. And hooked up to some decent bookshelf speakers.

For my desk I replaced my desktop size tube amp and speakers with the P3 and Dynaudio EMIT M10. Not really desktop size, the Dynaudio were one of the smallest speakers in their class but still look out of place next to my 32" monitor. But the sound upgrade is worth the bulky looking presentation.

Even when I first swapped in the P3 with my old speakers I was surprised at how the amp took control of these little guys and brought their sound to life for the first time.

With the Dynaudio I'm truly impressed with the full beautiful sound the P3 provides. The speakers are driven with ease and authority at both very low and high volume. And I don't need to turn the volume too far to really drive these 86db 6 ohm speakers.

Imaging and soundstage are there also but I can't say my desk positioning allows me to comment here.

There is not a hint of harshness with this setup but not a lot of sparkle either as Dynaudio are typically neutral. Mids are very full and satisfying. Bass doesn't go too deep if course but it's tight and enjoyable (with the rear speaker ports blocked with the supplied foam plugs).

Great for gaming too.

I haven't heard the name brand competitors in the 70 watt power amp range but I did quite a bit of research. I'm pretty sure for the price you would be hard pressed to find anything that can knock the sound delivered by the P3. Looks good too. It's a quality piece of gear.
 
Jan 30, 2021 at 1:36 PM Post #43 of 51
I haven't heard the name brand competitors in the 70 watt power amp range but I did quite a bit of research. I'm pretty sure for the price you would be hard pressed to find anything that can knock the sound delivered by the P3. Looks good too. It's a quality piece of gear.

Nice little set-up you have there. I am using two P3's as the main amp. I don't have too many audiophile friends, and the few I have are very sceptical about the P3 and Audio-gd in general. Perhaps they read too many measurementalist blogs. Very smooth sounding indeed and well balanced.

For mid-size apartment rooms, the power of the P3 in combination with Dynaudio two-way speakers (or any other brands) with 5 1/2" - 7" mid-bass drivers is more than adequate.

I may have gone a little overboard during the pandemic (excuses...), but here is a photo of my primary stack (living room). Audio-gd P3 (2020) at the bottom, LPS for an Allo Digione Sig, Motu M for the occasional ADC analog->digital conversion, MacCormack ALD-1 (ancient) mainly for the phono stage, Denafrips ARES II (recently acquired) and Burson C3R which is the converging point for everything. The Denafrips feeds the line-in 1 of the Burson, line-in 2 is for the phono stage.

The Audio-gd P3 (2020) is driving a pair of Dyn Excite 14's, which are very similar to the EMIT's. BTW, I did exhaustive A/B compare session of the Emit vs. Excite with a friend. The X14's are a touch better in the mid/higher region, but not by much.

The second P3 is driving bedroom entertainment...

20210124_183106_HDR (1).jpg
 
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Jan 30, 2021 at 1:43 PM Post #44 of 51
I'm very impressed with both the P3 and Dynaudio. A nice match.

Now that my P3 is truly burned in it is really shining. It gives me the itch to get back into speaker systems.
 
Jan 30, 2021 at 2:17 PM Post #45 of 51
I'm very impressed with both the P3 and Dynaudio. A nice match.

Now that my P3 is truly burned in it is really shining. It gives me the itch to get back into speaker systems.

Couldn't agree more.

This is off topic, but I modified the X14's and replaced the caps (for high-pass) in the signal path to the tweeter. I am not recommending it, unless you are a DIY'er (I built my own speakers, back when Dynaudio sold raw drivers). The Emit's and Excite's use the inexpensive Bennic brand. I replaced the 4.7uF Bennic with a Jantzen Silver Z-Cap same value. There is noticeable improvement (better transparency, more detail, smoother highs overall) from the relative inexpensive modification.
 
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