[sphinxvc]

 
Quote:

Thanks for the serious posts and recommendations. Yeah, the fact that it is fully balanced and has that much power at its price point--along with the reputation--definitely has me intrigued. I'm picturing my HD 650 and Jena Labs cable balanced and that is a nice thought. I also consider HE-5LE or LCD-2 as my next pair of cans and the power at low impedence looks nice. 
 
Any concerns with HD 650 owners on its synergy with NFB 10? I've noticed my HD 650 are pretty finicky with a lot of amps I have tried and have noticed they can sound slow with muffled bass on even well regarded amps. 
 
I noticed someone mention that the digital interface is offered at a significant discount if combined with a NFB 10. Is that still the case. If so, how much will it run?
 
Thanks

The only impression here with HD650s is on page 21.

 

[erjifan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sid-Fi /img/forum/go_quote.gif  
Any concerns with HD 650 owners on its synergy with NFB 10? I've noticed my HD 650 are pretty finicky with a lot of amps I have tried and have noticed they can sound slow with muffled bass on even well regarded amps. 

 
NFB10 really gives my HD600 (purchased used from the forum) second life. I have ballanced HD600 cable to hook up them. I wouldn't worry too much about pairing HD650 with NFB10, especially ballanced.

 

[olor1n]

Quote:

The only impression here with HD650s is on page 21.

Looking forward to impressions from you sphinx.

 

[Nachkebia]

So, general consensus is that its better to get NFB-10ES + Digital Interface? planing on using it on balanced LCD-2 and HD650

 

[BoyNamedSue]

Need some diagnostic help. My NFB10ES has been working and sounding great for the most part, but I have been running into slight popping or cracking sounds intermittently when playing bluray and on some high kbps FLAC files. The FLAC files are hit or miss, but the popping or cracking sounds has been consistent across different bluray movies. Both bluray (powerdvd) and music (foobar2000, wasapi) playback is through USB  from a Core2duo Vista PC. Any ideas for what could be wrong? 

 

[Wulvy]

Quote:

Need some diagnostic help. My NFB10ES has been working and sounding great for the most part, but I have been running into slight popping or cracking sounds intermittently when playing bluray and on some high kbps FLAC files. The FLAC files are hit or miss, but the popping or cracking sounds has been consistent across different bluray movies. Both bluray (powerdvd) and music (foobar2000, wasapi) playback is through USB  from a Core2duo Vista PC. Any ideas for what could be wrong? 

 
Maybe it is something to do with the buffer. Are you running CPU intensive programs in the background? Try increasing the buffer in foobar (configuration > output).
 
More unlikely -  the analog volume control can occasionally be responsible for clicking if its set to exactly in between two steps (fixed by changing the volume a touch).
 

 

[BoyNamedSue]

I don't have anything else running while playing the bluray, and usually only browsing when listening to music. What does buffer do? It's currently set to 500ms in foobar but I will try increasing it for the problem songs. Do you have a recommended value? I'll also tinker with the volume. Thanks for the tips. 

 

[somestranger26]

I think you should lower the buffer in foobar (100-200ms). My digital interface gets more dropouts (if that's what it is) with higher buffer and uses the same TE7022 USB chip. Kingwa is the one who recommended I lower the buffer.

 

[BoyNamedSue]

Tinkered with both increasing and decreasing buffer and I couldn't hear difference, other than there being distortion when going up to 2000ms. I'm beginning to think that the pop/crackle sound is part of the actual track as it occurs at the same point and not all FLAC songs are affected. On the other hand, I think "dropouts" is what is happening with the bluray playback. I'm not sure if the problem is with PowerDVD, the NFB10ES, or something else. PowerDVD's audio setting is very limited but I do have it set to stereo output.

 

[Wulvy]

Test the blurays with a different media player. You probably have Windows Media Player installed already, so try it with that and see if the error is changed at all. That's if it can play Blurays, have never tried playing Blurays through my computer so I'm a bit inexperienced.
 
You can test if it is the FLAC tracks themself by trying it with a different media player. I assume you have Windows Media Player installed, though it can't natively play FLAC's. Get a FLAC plugin for it and test.
 
You could download the K-lite Mega Codec Pack which comes with MPC which would be compatible with Blu-rays and install FLAC plugins for playback in MC, WMP etc.

 

[BoyNamedSue]

As usual, great thanks for the tips. I'll test out some of the recommendations this coming weekend.

 

[ohhgourami]

Quote:

When are you getting it balanced ohgourami? Would be interested to see your impressions if it's overly bright with the ES after being balanced.
 


 

I just released the DT880's stock cable only has 3 wires.  I cannot just reterminate to be balanced.  It requires a full recable job and I'm not going to do that.  Sorry
 

 

[Sid-Fi]

I went ahead and sold my Sigma 11 and listed my Nuforce Icon HDP. It looks like I'll be pulling the trigger on the NFB 10 very soon. I am really looking forward to it and will post impressions. Hopefully, it turns out to be the upgrade many feel that it will be.
 
One last question, why have the vast majority in this thread all opted for the ES version. Is the Buffalo chip that much better? I thought the WM version sounded nicer based on Kingwa's description and it seems like the ES has compatibility issues at times and more caveats. I've already read through the whole thread, but if anyone can offer insight here to help me feel better about which version to order, I would really appreciate it.
 
Quote:

Thanks for the serious posts and recommendations. Yeah, the fact that it is fully balanced and has that much power at its price point--along with the reputation--definitely has me intrigued. I'm picturing my HD 650 and Jena Labs cable balanced and that is a nice thought. I also consider HE-5LE or LCD-2 as my next pair of cans and the power at low impedence looks nice. 
 
Any concerns with HD 650 owners on its synergy with NFB 10? I've noticed my HD 650 are pretty finicky with a lot of amps I have tried and have noticed they can sound slow with muffled bass on even well regarded amps. 
 
I noticed someone mention that the digital interface is offered at a significant discount if combined with a NFB 10. Is that still the case. If so, how much will it run?
 
Thanks

 

 

[sphinxvc]

Quote:

I went ahead and sold my Sigma 11 and listed my Nuforce Icon HDP. It looks like I'll be pulling the trigger on the NFB 10 very soon. I am really looking forward to it and will post impressions. Hopefully, it turns out to be the upgrade many feel that it will be.
 
One last question, why have the vast majority in this thread all opted for the ES version. Is the Buffalo chip that much better? I thought the WM version sounded nicer based on Kingwa's description and it seems like the ES has compatibility issues at times and more caveats. I've already read through the whole thread, but if anyone can offer insight here to help me feel better about which version to order, I would really appreciate it.
 


 

You may want to check out Milosz amp A/B comparison thread where he A/Bs the NFB-10ES with the Beta 22 [fed with NFB-10ES as DAC].  He finds the NFB-10ES amp section as bright.  I've contemplated the same decision and have been leaning towards the WM version because of it's added soundstage, neutrality, suitability for a wider range of cans, non-fatiguing-ness & the fact that Kingwa recommended the WM version to a fellow Head-fi'er with HD650s.

 

[Kingwa]

The ACSS DAC+amp is different than other technology.
Other technology DAC+ amp must had separate DAC and amp in the box.
But ACSS DAC+amp  can't define the separate DAC and amp.
The DAC output ACSS signal through the amp till the output stages.
The amp as a analog processor of the DAC and as the amp for headphone and DAC output.
So the ACSS DAC+ amp had the  best short signal journey and had least corloration.
 
The DAC output of the NFB10 in face is same with the headphone output, just through two relays to choice DAC output or headphone output.
So in this case, I don't think the NFB10 's amp bright but the outside amp is slight dark.
Sorry for the broke English of mine.