[LarsHP]

There are 2 devices in those pictures. The internal is Ref 7.1, the one in the first picture is r2r7

I got that. I was wondering which was the upgraded one. It's the Ref 7.1, I understand after reading your post in the other thread, but I didn't think it was possible to upgrade a Ref 7.1 like described (as I was told by Kingwa that I couldn't upgrade my Ref 7.1 to the Master 7 Singularity).

 

[FredA]

The master-7 singularity has different output stages. Also, at some point, Kingwa stopped offering diy sIngularity boards, but perhaps Magna can still do it i.e. install a singularity board in your dac.

 

[DACLadder]

Yes, inquire with Jos at Magna Hifi about the Singularity board. They may have a spare to sell or can get one from Audio GD.

 

[DACLadder]

On the network drive I put up all the firmware versions I have collected for both the original Master 7 DSP firmware, Singularity 7 firmware including V1 Smooth and V1 Accurate, and the latest V2 support for the R2R7 but do work with the Singularity equipped Master 7s.

If you need IN4 Optical (Toslink) stick with "V2 IN4 Optical" and the original MS7 versions in "V1 - Older Singularity Firmware" directories. V1 Accuate and V1 Smooth support I2S on IN4. If you don't use Toslink then any of these Singularity versions will work - at least IN5 and IN6 do.

There are jumper changes for "V2" firmware so look at the note.txt files in the V2 directories.

You can find what you need here....
https://onedrive.live.com/?id=636DC4E8060D66A1!172&cid=636DC4E8060D66A1

R7V2SA-T.jic (the hybrid smooth/ accurate V2 version) sounds pretty good on the M7S. Seems like V2 is tuned for the R2R 7 though. But give em a try and you can always restore if you do not like.

 

[Whitigir]

SaV1 and V2 is the same Inst it ?

 

[DACLadder]

SaV1 and V2 is the same Inst it ?

V1 smooth and accurate were released last summer for the R2R 7. Your R7 probably had V1 smooth loaded when you received it. I just added V1 to the original smooth and accurate files names to differentiate between them and V2

 

[Whitigir]

V1 smooth and accurate were released last summer for the R2R 7. Your R7 probably had V1 smooth loaded when you received it. I just added V1 to the original smooth and accurate files names to differentiate between them and V2

I was just confused as in Smooth Accurate firmware hybrid V1 was said for Input 4 and V2 for Optical. Is there differences between them ?

 

[DACLadder]

There is no Smooth-Accurate hybrid for V1. I edited my original post for clarification. And V1 Smooth and V1 Accurate support I2S on Input 4. The Master 7s have Toslink as default on Input 4 where the R2R 7s have I2S as standard shipping configuration. I was just noting that if you use Toslink then you need a version of firmware that supports optical on Input 4.

Not to add confusion but there are versions of V1 (S and A) that support Optical on IN4. I don't have these optical version files if someone can share with me.

I also copied V1 Accurate and V1 Smooth file and changed their respective names to R7V1A and R7V1S. Same files but different names.
So
R7V1A = V1_Accurate = accurate (the original file name) checksum 02966D4D
R7V1S = V1_Smooth = smooth (the original file name) checksum 0289DE70

 

[Whitigir]

There is no Smooth-Accurate hybrid for V1. I edited my original post for clarification. And V1 Smooth and V1 Accurate support I2S on Input 4. The Master 7s have Toslink as default on Input 4 where the R2R 7s have I2S as standard shipping configuration. I was just noting that if you use Toslink then you need a version of firmware that supports optical on Input 4.

So both Smooth/Accurate hybrid is the same ? X_X . Thank you, I do enjoy this Smooth/Accurate firmware a lot

 

[bruiselee]

Hi,

Any idea how to fix not being able to control the volume via windows volume settings ??

I can only either mute it via the music player im using or via the Amplifier knob..

Using the 2014 drivers for master 7

 

[FredA]

Hi,

Any idea how to fix not being able to control the volume via windows volume settings ??

I can only either mute it via the music player im using or via the Amplifier knob..

Using the 2014 drivers for master 7

Not sure. Check the config for the correpsonding audio device. Just one remark: using sw volune control makes you loose bits of signal and degrade sound quality.

 

[bruiselee]

Tried to search around to no avail .

Yep I'm aware of it, just sometimes need the ability to mute it quickly via Windows control instead of going for the volume knob on my amp.

More of a convenience thing that I'm very used to with my previous dac

 

[aljordan]

I have an early version of the Master 7 (I think it was made around 2013). I am trying to figure the proper jumper settings for bypassing the PLL and dithering, but I found two manuals on the Audio-GD site with opposing information.

This page says that the jumpers should be off for bypassing:
http://www.audio-gd.com/master/master-7/M7EN_Use.htm

However, this page says that the jumpers should be on:
http://www.audio-gd.com/Master/Master-7_384/M7384EN_Use.htm
http://www.audio-gd.com/Master/Master-7_384/M7384EN_Use.htm
Did the jumper set up change for later DACs? Does anyone know if there is anything on the DAC that would let me know which manual I should be using?

Thanks,
Alan

 

[FredA]

I have an early version of the Master 7 (I think it was made around 2013). I am trying to figure the proper jumper settings for bypassing the PLL and dithering, but I found two manuals on the Audio-GD site with opposing information.

This page says that the jumpers should be off for bypassing:
http://www.audio-gd.com/master/master-7/M7EN_Use.htm

However, this page says that the jumpers should be on:
http://www.audio-gd.com/Master/Master-7_384/M7384EN_Use.htm
Did the jumper set up change for later DACs? Does anyone know if there is anything on the DAC that would let me know which manual I should be using?

Thanks,
Alan

Originally, you needed to put a jumper to bypass it. Then, with the latest fw, it was the opposite.

 

[aljordan]

Thanks. I updated to the latest firmware a while back, so I guess I should be following the 2016 directions.