I'm still deciding on a possible used Gustard U16 +C16 external clock. Any other opinions about the standard DI-20 (with 90/98M) without a clock vs. the Gustard Combo, and if good power filtering would make the standard version closer to the DI-20HE version? Thanks!
I'm coming from the Singxer SU-1 early first-gen DDC with my Chord Qutest and for some reason it seems to benefit SUBSTANTIALLY from a series of two other USB purifiers / decrapifiers into it (Wyrd and iFi iPurifier),
It's the iFi iPurifier2 USB from about 2016. It improved the clarity / resolution etc. for all my setups but one which made it sound a bit clinical. Maybe with that and the Wyrd and power conditioning with a DI-20 I won't even need an external clock or the top HE version...
It's the iFi iPurifier2 USB from about 2016. It improved the clarity / resolution etc. for all my setups but one which made it sound a bit clinical. Maybe with that and thy Wyrd and power conditioning with a DI-20 I won't even need an external clock or the top HE version...
Thanks. It's difficult to predict whether one external clock would be able to replace your USB chain. Considering what you already have in there, I would probably have a think about a galvanic isolator. Any product of this type should work with what you already have, and they're quite effective in general.
I have been getting very confusing messages regarding my Mutec Ref10 SE-120 over the last month since I purchased it.
Sometimes it sounds worse than my Morion, sometimes around equal, and sometimes substantially better.
I finally figured out the problem and confirmed it with several tests.
The instructions say to burn in the unit for two weeks and then power it off as it only needs 30 minutes of warm-up time before a listening session; and my listening to these instructions was the source of my inconsistent results. 30 minutes of warm-up gives me worse results than my Morion when it is always powered up. Two hours warm-up gives me better results than my Morion- but not by that much. After leaving the clock on for around 7-8 hours the music from my system sounds totally different- worlds better than my Morion.
I do not understand why Mutec instructs to power off after every use. The sonic differences are enormous. I am still trying to determine if it is worth it to power the unit down at night before bed and just power it up in the morning. I anyway don't listen to music until mid-day...
I do not understand why Mutec instructs to power off after every use. The sonic differences are enormous. I am still trying to determine if it is worth it to power the unit down at night before bed and just power it up in the morning. I anyway don't listen to music until mid-day...
It might have something to do with internal clock's temperature. Such delicate devices need some time to settle in after turning them on, and they reach their optimal working conditions after a while. I'm not sure which DAC was it (I think Auralic Vega), but it unlocked the exact clock setting after an hour or so of work. That's how much time it took to stabilize in full. Perhaps in case of that Mutec it's something similar?
Hi,
The DI20HE is a significant step up from te U16. It is better in every aspect. I haven't heard the DI20 (non HE). I recommend You to go for the DI20HE and get a decent external XO. (Morion, Oscilloquartz..)
/Jan
Kingwa told me not to open the di20he and take a pic to send to him. Said to send it back if I think theres a problem, he'll check it, if any issue he will refund my shipping it back to him and pay to ship me a new unit/repaired unit. If he can't find a problem then he'll just refund me my purchase price less shipping.
I'm kinda hoping burning it more will magically fix the issue but I kinda doubt it. Will burn it in for about a week. Finger crossed that the issue will just magically resolve.
Hi,
The DI20HE is a significant step up from te U16. It is better in every aspect. I haven't heard the DI20 (non HE). I recommend You to go for the DI20HE and get a decent external XO. (Morion, Oscilloquartz..)
/Jan
So I decided to do u1 mini -> usb -> sotm dx usb -> AES -> terminator...
If this was clean that would definitely eliminate my AES pathway as being the issue. But.... I got sound CUT OUTS!!!!! This means the cut out issue is either a problem with my AES cable or AES input. So its not the DI20HE !!
But couple things remain. Even before when i was doing i2s out of di20he, i would still get that sound shift + pop problem
i think thats pure di20he.
The other mystery, why did i never have issues before going from pi -> sotm dx usb -> aes -> terminator. Did my aes cable or input just get screwed up recently ?
Right now listening to u1 mini -> usb -> di20HE -> I2s (hdmi) -> terminator... so far its sounding stable! Will report back.
I have been getting very confusing messages regarding my Mutec Ref10 SE-120 over the last month since I purchased it.
Sometimes it sounds worse than my Morion, sometimes around equal, and sometimes substantially better.
I finally figured out the problem and confirmed it with several tests.
The instructions say to burn in the unit for two weeks and then power it off as it only needs 30 minutes of warm-up time before a listening session; and my listening to these instructions was the source of my inconsistent results. 30 minutes of warm-up gives me worse results than my Morion when it is always powered up. Two hours warm-up gives me better results than my Morion- but not by that much. After leaving the clock on for around 7-8 hours the music from my system sounds totally different- worlds better than my Morion.
I do not understand why Mutec instructs to power off after every use. The sonic differences are enormous. I am still trying to determine if it is worth it to power the unit down at night before bed and just power it up in the morning. I anyway don't listen to music until mid-day...
Hi Steven,
I have answered You in PM but think it is a general interest in this matter. There is no reason to power off the external OCXO's independent on brand. It takes about 12 to 24 h to get back to the stable phase and highest performance level after a full cool down. The power draw is a few watts running. 3-4 Watts running and 8-10 Watts heating up phase.
If You are going away for a period. Turn it off to save burning hours on it, but don't power cycle it every day.
I have my gears powered on at all times except in the hottest summer time. To have the sound system ready to do its best for me at any hour is paradise for me.
/Jan
So I decided to do u1 mini -> usb -> sotm dx usb -> AES -> terminator...
If this was clean that would definitely eliminate my AES pathway as being the issue. But.... I got sound CUT OUTS!!!!! This means the cut out issue is either a problem with my AES cable or AES input. So its not the DI20HE !!
But couple things remain. Even before when i was doing i2s out of di20he, i would still get that sound shift + pop problem
i think thats pure di20he.
The other mystery, why did i never have issues before going from pi -> sotm dx usb -> aes -> terminator. Did my aes cable or input just get screwed up recently ?
Right now listening to u1 mini -> usb -> di20HE -> I2s (hdmi) -> terminator... so far its sounding stable! Will report back.
I have had issues when just swapping two different AGD devices on a RPI running ropiee roonbridge, even though they are both Amanero interfaces.
Suggest you reflash your RPI SD card with a fresh OS and player/bridge solution, see if that helps. Resetting the RPI when a new device is connected shouldn't be necessary, but it worked better for me for whatever reason.
I tried a pretty basic OCXO oven clock (~50$ + a 100$ lps) with my nonHE DI20 (90/98 version). The impact was huge. Much more natural timbre and sound from instruments. And the DI20 is really good in the first place, so for me, definitely an area to experiment with. My friend tried it as well and the impact in his system was less obvious. Our theory is that it also depends on the ability of the DAC; I have an older DAC that probably does not have any advanced filtering mechanism and my friend has a much more high end DAC (a DCS).
Hi Steven,
I have answered You in PM but think it is a general interest in this matter. There is no reason to power off the external OCXO's independent on brand. It takes about 12 to 24 h to get back to the stable phase and highest performance level after a full cool down. The power draw is a few watts running. 3-4 Watts running and 8-10 Watts heating up phase.
If You are going away for a period. Turn it off to save burning hours on it, but don't power cycle it every day.
I have my gears powered on at all times except in the hottest summer time. To have the sound system ready to do its best for me at any hour is paradise for me.
/Jan
Here is an email I received from Mutec after inquiring about this issue:
__________________________________________________________
Hello Mr. Rubin,
Nice to hear that you like our REF10. The OCXO will not damage so fast but the jitter will be better if you leave the unit all the time on. We have a lot of customers who leave the unit on and say its getting even better sound wise.
I wish you many hours of fun listening thru our REF10.
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