Audio-GD DI-20
Feb 1, 2023 at 6:34 AM Post #4,681 of 5,351
A comment on the active USB cables. A main purpose is to extend maximum usable cable lenght above a typical 5m by regenerating frames. Do you need it?

The same when using USB 2.0 hub. In fact, there is a hub chip inside the cable. A hub is seen in Device Manager, change a view "by connection" to see how it is inserted between a DDC/DAC.

If you plug external power supply to such cable, it helps redirecting ground loops, the same (again) as a self-powered USB 2.0 hub do. So essentially you have very expensive a single port self-powered USB 2.0 hub. Ifi has a similar USB regenerator under a different name, but I always recommend to use iDefender instead, as is cheaper.

In your case (I recall you had to deal with AMD chipset problems during firmware upgrade) using USB 2.0 hub is recommended. It doesn't interfere with asynchronous data transfers, so you don't need to worry about what Kingwa wrote on the website. The same is expected with this cable. If you see any improvements, remember that the same can be achieved with self-powered USB 2.0 hub.
:)
The "Active" cable I have is not the same standard/term like the normal ones. The cable is active according to 3 different "Bullets" than can be connected to the cable. The included psu for this cable is not affected of powering the cable, it works also without(passiv) - I just noticed the psu was not plugged in for it, while listening:sweat_smile:

And yeah I hat problems with the USB Blaster and Device Manager not registering the Altera driver. Simple usb hub solved the issue.
 
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Feb 1, 2023 at 8:38 AM Post #4,682 of 5,351
Not sure if you've solved your problem yet, but here's my 2c with a similar problem that may help. I used to get a loud screeching sound from my DI20 (non-HE) when navigating within, or stopping DSD playback. After making the following cabling upgrades, the problem never came back. In the last few months I have added an iFi iDefender from the PC connected to a Fibbr Alpha USB-optical-USB cable, iFi iPurifier 3 (which goes into my existing Wyrd), then a new much thicker gauge short-run USB cable, (which goes to my existing iFi iPurifier 2), then out of the DI20 I'm using a much better quality RCA coax cable to my DAC. What I believe to be making the difference is thicker USB and digital RCA coax cables which happen to be made of pure sterling silver - these are cheap Chinese knockoffs of multi-thousand dollar cables that are actually made of said material, which you can read about here. In terms of the iFi products, these seem to be adding more depth, purity and detail but I believe it's these better conducting cables that are fixing any data transmission issues.
You have some serious processing between your laptop and DI20HE. How is that Alpha cable working out for you?

How many devices do you have between laptop and di20?
 
Feb 3, 2023 at 4:39 AM Post #4,683 of 5,351
You have some serious processing between your laptop and DI20HE. How is that Alpha cable working out for you?

How many devices do you have between laptop and di20?
Come to think of it I had only 4 when I posted that, now I have 5 plus one more after the DI-20.
Laptop --> iFi USB iDefender --> Fibbr Alpha USB-optical-USB cable converter --> iFi USB iPurifier 3 --> Schiit Wyrd --> iFi USB iPurifier 2 via Thick Odin 2 quality knockoff US cable partially shielded with copper foil and silver Faraday fabric Tape --> DI-20 --> iFi SPDIF iPurifier 2 via thick Odin 2 quality knockoff digital RCA cable partially shielded with copper foil --> toslink optical out to DAC.

The sound I'm getting is bar none the best I've ever experienced at home, and even rivaling most CanJam setups I've heard over the years. Totally immersive experience and a real pleasure to listen to with stunning soundstage, headroom, black background, and very natural smooth organic character. It's the current result of years of A/B and experimenting with all combinations of less. Some of it may be making up for my mid-fi DAC at the moment (Chord Mojo 2), but I swear by it and believe me, nothing is over / under done in any way. Many elements of this setup (namely the iFi devices and thicker cables) have actually fixed the problem the DI20 used to have with glitches during playback, and it's been flawless this way. I'm under the impression that less is not always more when it comes to digital audio chains (if done right), as opposed to longer signal paths when it comes to analogue audio.

The Fibbr Alpha cable itself actually borderlines on the bright / clinical side but that's because it's so ultra puristic and un-colored. Several tweaks were done within my system to bring back some of the weight and euphonic tone - definitely something a positive a tube amp would also do with this USB-optical cable.

The biggest improvement came 6 weeks ago when adding the iFi SPDIF iPurifier 2 between the DI20 and utilizing its' nifty little Toslink optical output and using a multistrand glass optical cable, as opposed to the oldschool way of just direct SPDIF cable to the DAC. Check out my post about it here, which I also powered with their iFi DC iPurifier 2
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/which-tweaks-have-worked-for-you.139115/post-17317050
 
Feb 3, 2023 at 5:31 AM Post #4,684 of 5,351
Many elements of this setup (namely the iFi devices and thicker cables) have actually fixed the problem the DI20 used to have with glitches during playback, and it's been flawless this way.
@DecentLevi. Can you expand device tree for your DI-20 connection and post screenshot? On Windows open Device Manager and select view "by connections". Thanks.
 
Feb 3, 2023 at 6:25 AM Post #4,685 of 5,351
Come to think of it I had only 4 when I posted that, now I have 5 plus one more after the DI-20.
Laptop --> iFi USB iDefender --> Fibbr Alpha USB-optical-USB cable converter --> iFi USB iPurifier 3 --> Schiit Wyrd --> iFi USB iPurifier 2 via Thick Odin 2 quality knockoff US cable partially shielded with copper foil and silver Faraday fabric Tape --> DI-20 --> iFi SPDIF iPurifier 2 via thick Odin 2 quality knockoff digital RCA cable partially shielded with copper foil --> toslink optical out to DAC.

The sound I'm getting is bar none the best I've ever experienced at home, and even rivaling most CanJam setups I've heard over the years. Totally immersive experience and a real pleasure to listen to with stunning soundstage, headroom, black background, and very natural smooth organic character. It's the current result of years of A/B and experimenting with all combinations of less. Some of it may be making up for my mid-fi DAC at the moment (Chord Mojo 2), but I swear by it and believe me, nothing is over / under done in any way. Many elements of this setup (namely the iFi devices and thicker cables) have actually fixed the problem the DI20 used to have with glitches during playback, and it's been flawless this way. I'm under the impression that less is not always more when it comes to digital audio chains (if done right), as opposed to longer signal paths when it comes to analogue audio.

The Fibbr Alpha cable itself actually borderlines on the bright / clinical side but that's because it's so ultra puristic and un-colored. Several tweaks were done within my system to bring back some of the weight and euphonic tone - definitely something a positive a tube amp would also do with this USB-optical cable.

The biggest improvement came 6 weeks ago when adding the iFi SPDIF iPurifier 2 between the DI20 and utilizing its' nifty little Toslink optical output and using a multistrand glass optical cable, as opposed to the oldschool way of just direct SPDIF cable to the DAC. Check out my post about it here, which I also powered with their iFi DC iPurifier 2
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/which-tweaks-have-worked-for-you.139115/post-17317050
Thanks! ... I tried the iPurifier3 only on DI20, it added some wetness, but my Susvara picked up som weirdess in the mids, but my Arya liked it.

(With that many parts, I am amazed your laptop still recoignizes the DI20 :sweat_smile:)

About the glitch on DI20. Have you checked for firmware upgrade or even a reset?
-can you tell more about this

Kingwa does mention there should be used a normal good decent cable, maybe it was just your cable that was broke?(in the start of the glitch experience)

Official website:
"The DI-20 had built in ultra speed isolation, for work most stable, don't connect external USB isolation , just let the USB connect to computer directly.
There are a lot different IIS definition exist with other brands , we only warranty work with our DACs, we can not warranty work with other brands."


All that said I use a "expensive" cable my self with some active "bullet". I maybe think it has thinned it a down abit, like taking/removing the sould from the music, even though it maybe added some depth. Im gonna try a normal good decent cable again.
 
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Feb 3, 2023 at 3:04 PM Post #4,686 of 5,351
@DecentLevi. Can you expand device tree for your DI-20 connection and post screenshot? On Windows open Device Manager and select view "by connections". Thanks.
I couldn't find anything relevant when sorting "by connections", so here's the default view. There's nothing about the DI20, since other devices come before it.
sound1.jpg


I am not experiencing any technical issues, but it seems I'm troubleshooting for others that have something awry. ANd @OCC7N one of the things which may have quelled the pervious occasional loud buzzing sound was a change of DAC. Some DAC's play better with the DI20 than others. If yours has a Toslink optical input, then I'd recommend getting the iFi SPDIF iPurifier 2 so you can route it from digital coax to optical, as a fix for the major oversight in the DI20 that lacks optical output.
 
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Feb 3, 2023 at 3:46 PM Post #4,687 of 5,351
I couldn't find anything relevant when sorting "by connections", so here's the default view. There's nothing about the DI20, since other devices come before it.


I am not experiencing any technical issues, but it seems I'm troubleshooting for others that have something awry. ANd @OCC7N one of the things which may have quelled the pervious occasional loud buzzing sound was a change of DAC. Some DAC's play better with the DI20 than others. If yours has a Toslink optical input, then I'd recommend getting the iFi SPDIF iPurifier 2 so you can route it from digital coax to optical, as a fix for the major oversight in the DI20 that lacks optical output.
Good advice. I am trying to look at, but having now one of a scheduled blackouts.

It is right that DI-20 do not show on the list, Amanero does, it is normal. However a name is different. I recall, a name on my system was something like "Amanero digital interface". Anyone with DI-20 can confirm it?

A different name means, Amanero has negotiated endpoint of a different name, so it works in a different mode than usual. The best performance is when "digital interface" is on the list instead.
 
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Feb 3, 2023 at 4:06 PM Post #4,688 of 5,351
Feb 3, 2023 at 4:56 PM Post #4,689 of 5,351
I couldn't find anything relevant when sorting "by connections", so here's the default view. There's nothing about the DI20, since other devices come before it.
sound1.jpg

I am not experiencing any technical issues, but it seems I'm troubleshooting for others that have something awry. ANd @OCC7N one of the things which may have quelled the pervious occasional loud buzzing sound was a change of DAC. Some DAC's play better with the DI20 than others. If yours has a Toslink optical input, then I'd recommend getting the iFi SPDIF iPurifier 2 so you can route it from digital coax to optical, as a fix for the major oversight in the DI20 that lacks optical output.
Wow I seriously did not not that ipurifier could convert coax to optical all this time. Thats pretty amazing!
 
Feb 3, 2023 at 5:00 PM Post #4,690 of 5,351
Wow I seriously did not not that ipurifier could convert coax to optical all this time. Thats pretty amazing!
It can do it. I have SPDIF iPurifier 2 in the closet. I was using it with a previous setup.
 
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Feb 3, 2023 at 6:07 PM Post #4,691 of 5,351
@DecentLevi.

In fact a name in Device Manager is the same, but in a "Sound Control Panel "digital interface" is specific to the Amanero if drivers are loaded, more similar to other USB receivers when Amanero works in UAC 2.0 mode using Windows 10 built-in drivers. I asked for a wrong things. Here on screenshots below description is "Digital Output", both in Windows Sound CP and Foobar output devices.
 

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Feb 4, 2023 at 8:55 AM Post #4,692 of 5,351
Well well. After my test of an expensive cable that is 14 times more expensive than my Supra. Im in shock.

DI20HE sounds better with the supra. Im sticking with decent/normal cables for the DI20HE. However the expensive cable did a better job than Supra on TT2. Hmm:sweat_smile:
 
Feb 18, 2023 at 4:44 AM Post #4,694 of 5,351

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