[Big man on the Fox]

I have a question that may have been covered or considered by others.
Can I use a single output clock feeding into a DI20HE and connect a cable from DI20HE clock out into my R7HE mkII? Will this offer the same benefit as a clock with multiple outputs?

 

[Big man on the Fox]

I have a question that may have been asked or considered by others:
Can I connect a single output clock into a DI20-HE and then connect a cable from DI20HE clock out into R7HE mkII? Will this give same positive results as using a clock with multiple outputs?

 

[sajunky]

Can I use a single output clock feeding into a DI20HE and connect a cable from DI20HE clock out into my R7HE mkII?

Simple answer, not. DI-20 output is word clock type (for older high-end devices), mk2 has a 10MHz clock input. The same as DI-20 input.

If your 10MHz clock device has only one port, you can daisy chain DI-20 to mk2 using t-connector but device in the middle must have internal terminator removed. In the minimal setup, just connect clock to DI-20. Not the same as synchronising both devices, but still giving positive results.

 

[dougms3]

I have a question that may have been asked or considered by others:
Can I connect a single output clock into a DI20-HE and then connect a cable from DI20HE clock out into R7HE mkII? Will this give same positive results as using a clock with multiple outputs?

I was thinking the same thing but I don't think the clock output on the di20 can be used for that purpose.

 

[FredA]

Simple answer, not. DI-20 output is word clock type (for older high-end devices), mk2 has a 10MHz clock input. The same as DI-20 input.

If your 10MHz clock device has only one port, you can daisy chain DI-20 to mk2 using t-connector but device in the middle must have internal terminator removed. In the minimal setup, just connect clock to DI-20. Not the same as synchronising both devices, but still giving positive results.

Better save the clock for the r7he mkii.

 

[DecentLevi]

How your output device name is changing (from Amanero digital....) in the Device Manager when inserting reclockers or isolators like iGalvanic? Report back, it is important for asynchronous data delivery. DI-20 assumes that transfers are asynchronous. When asynchronous transfer is broken, it may generate noise as there is no reclocking on USB port! Some other brands do always reclock, quality drop may be unnoticed.

USB cables are important and placement of a ferrite on the cable is critical. Also order of devices in the chain. By example iDefender, must be the first device in the chain, iFi recommends direct plugged to the USB port - not using the cable, and redirecting ground loops with external power supply is most effective. Extra devices are optional and order is not so clearly defined as many have a mixed function. Reclockers (if used, I really don't like these) or isolators should be placed closer to a DAC.

Now about chosing the right cable in the right place. As mentioned before, for devices with ground loop redirection function, the best is no cable between USB host. If using cable, it must be a thick one (thick wires, not the outher jacket) and sans ferrite. Having a multimeter, check resistance of the wires. Poor cable may measure 1Ohm on a distance 1meter. Power supply of the ground loops redirector should be plugged close to the computer's outlet.

Cable coming out of ground loop redirector may have a larger resistance, but should be well shielded and have a ferrite (either moulded or added a clamp). Closer to a DAC, better shielding and bigger ferrite. But ferrite choke do not block mains frequency noise, only HF. It is why ground loop redirection (if properly made) is the most critical part of installation.

There is no problem in my system I was trying to solve, I was just curious if anyone knows a difference between the Wyrd and iGalvanic. I've basically done everything you mentioned as of some time ago. And my extra purifiers and reclockers did not change the codec, they were transparent. Maybe will go back over your post again sometime later.

 

[sean perth]

Hi All
Recently added an Audio GD DI-20 to my setup. There was a noticeable improvement and will run this as if for a few months but got me wondering what is next, limited understanding of word clocks so wondering what would be next as far as adding a word clock and where it goes in my setup
Current setup
Auralic Aries G1-audio GD-accurate D1000 DAC
Thanks for advice
Sean

 

[DecentLevi]

I have something to share I consider extraordinary for the DI-20. Introducing mineral grounding boxes. After minimal setup effort, the sound I am getting from my DI20 is downright vivid, scrumptious and delectable! I'm taken even deeper into the scene and all signs of HF glare are gone, leaving me with an ultra analog lifelike sound with some of the deepest, best subterranean bass and robust dynamics I can remember hearing.

This is for the brave who are willing to delve into relatively uncharted and unexplainable territories, because - I kid you not - not only does this unpowered box impact the sound (even though my DI20 is already connected to a multi-thousand $ power conditioner and thick aftermarket AC cable), but also nano liquid contact enhancer and rubber absorption feet underneath the box produce audible differences. Initially I tried this on my power conditioner and SS amp but these already seemed to have sufficient grounding/isolation, so clamping it on one of the spare SPDIF sockets of the DI20 is where it really made a difference for me.
I'm not the only one, feel free to read how I got here:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/aliexpress-cables.963919/post-17273980

Not wanting to derail too much around here, feel free to post on the above link if any queries - where they also happen to be going DIY.

 

[FredA]

I have something to share I consider extraordinary for the DI-20. Introducing mineral grounding boxes. After minimal setup effort, the sound I am getting from my DI20 is downright vivid, scrumptious and delectable! I'm taken even deeper into the scene and all signs of HF glare are gone, leaving me with an ultra analog lifelike sound with some of the deepest, best subterranean bass and robust dynamics I can remember hearing.

This is for the brave who are willing to delve into relatively uncharted and unexplainable territories, because - I kid you not - not only does this unpowered box impact the sound (even though my DI20 is already connected to a multi-thousand $ power conditioner and thick aftermarket AC cable), but also nano liquid contact enhancer and rubber absorption feet underneath the box produce audible differences. Initially I tried this on my power conditioner and SS amp but these already seemed to have sufficient grounding/isolation, so clamping it on one of the spare SPDIF sockets of the DI20 is where it really made a difference for me.
I'm not the only one, feel free to read how I got here:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/aliexpress-cables.963919/post-17273980

Not wanting to derail too much around here, feel free to post on the above link if any queries - where they also happen to be going DIY.

Yes. I use a grounding tube on an unused output's neutral on my di20he. This made a difference.

 

[FredA]

Hi All
Recently added an Audio GD DI-20 to my setup. There was a noticeable improvement and will run this as if for a few months but got me wondering what is next, limited understanding of word clocks so wondering what would be next as far as adding a word clock and where it goes in my setup
Current setup
Auralic Aries G1-audio GD-accurate D1000 DAC
Thanks for advice
Sean

You need a 10Mhz master clock. Everyone is getting either the LHY OCK1 or LHY OCK2.

 

[DecentLevi]

Any impressions yet of the OCK2?

 

[OCC7N]

You need a 10Mhz master clock. Everyone is getting either the LHY OCK1 or LHY OCK2.

Planning on buying the master clock together with DI20HE. Im curious to know what the real benefit is with OCK2 over the OCK1. Price vs performance

 

[FredA]

Any impressions yet of the OCK2?

Check the clock thread

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/master-clock-talk.228428/page-7

 

[sean perth]

You need a 10Mhz master clock. Everyone is getting either the LHY OCK1 or LHY OCK2.

Hi given that I need the above
Where would it sit in my chain
Auralic Aries G1-audio GD DI-20 to accurate D1000 DAC

 

[FredA]

Hi given that I need the above
Where would it sit in my chain
Auralic Aries G1-audio GD DI-20 to accurate D1000 DAC

It would feed the clock signal to the di20. The results will depends on how much the di20 improves things in the first place. You can expect a similar gain with the clock.