[Sovkiller]

Quote:

Originally Posted by euclid /img/forum/go_quote.gif 100v works fine in United States, no converters needed

For must cases of old receivers it does, but those amps are not class A, this one is class A and normally get hot, I do not reco to use them at 120-127volts without any step down trasnformer...it is 20-25% overload.

AudioCubes sells one good enough...

Also he is in Australia, not US, Australia is 220 volts

 

[slwiser]

I have always used a converter for mine, 120 to 100 volts, 150 watts capacity for a 30 watt load. I don't think the HA5000 needs it, but just wanted to be careful.

 

[euclid]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sovkiller /img/forum/go_quote.gif For must cases of old receivers it does, but those amps are not class A, this one is class A and normally get hot, I do not reco to use them at 120-127volts without any step down trasnformer...it is 20-25% overload. AudioCubes sells one good enough... Also he is in Australia, not US, Australia is 220 volts

i didnt notice he was 220v, i do that somethimes where i scan the thread too fast and miss the actual question.

in the US i would doubt the components would be damaged at the slightly higher operating temp, whats the amperage for HA5000?

edit:slwisers FS post says 30w continous for 0.25A at 120v, is that at idle or at max output of 1.2w?

 

[MaloS]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elephas /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey, what are you doing here, you traded away your W5000!

Should I also be hiding? Especially given that I sold my W5000 and traded the Raptor?

 

[slwiser]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elephas /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hey, what are you doing here, you traded away your W5000!

Hey, I still have my AT-HA5000, at least until I decide to sell it. I have it on an interest quest now. If I keep it I will have three nice amps. For me that is about one to many. But if my wife has anything to do with it I will keep it. She knows how much I have enjoyed it over that last year.

So with the combination of the AT-HA5000 and the ATH-W5000 the "MOSFET mist" sounds like a myth from what I am reading from your post, right?

 

[slwiser]

Quote:

Originally Posted by euclid /img/forum/go_quote.gif i didnt notice he was 220v, i do that somethimes where i scan the thread too fast and miss the actual question. in the US i would doubt the components would be damaged at the slightly higher operating temp, whats the amperage for HA5000? edit:slwisers FS post says 30w continous for 0.25A at 120v, is that at idle or at max output of 1.2w?

The amp is class A so it is pulling down I think I read somewhere 27 watts out of the wall all the time, even at idle. The maximum power output at 32 ohms load is rated in the amplifier's specification as 1.2 watts output to the load. It puts out as much heat as my micro-ZOTL tube amp. The spec also says 2.4 watts at 16 ohms. You could drive a nice set of high efficiency speakers with this amp assuming a impedance of 16 ohms.

 

[jdimitri]

Alright.. so do i need a 50 watt transformer or will a 30 watt do?

 

[slwiser]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdimitri /img/forum/go_quote.gif Alright.. so do i need a 50 watt transformer or will a 30 watt do?

If you need a transformer please get one at least 100 watts or more if available. You don't want to crimp the capacity of the load delivery into the amp if you can keep from it. I would not recommend either the 30 watt or 50 watt converter for this unit. Japan has two power supply ratings one is 100 volts the other is like 220 volts if I remember correctly. I remember reading somewhere that those with the 220 volt supply used a down converter in the range of 300-500 watts and were saying they could tell the difference. Maybe this was in some Korean sites.

 

[euclid]

but the HA5000 has to have a maximum wattage draw figure at its rated 1.2w output, and as far as heat is concerned the circuit should be able to handle the highest temp found at maximum wattage.

so for our real world use we are not asking for 1.2w to drive headphones, lets say for arguments sake we need 500mw, that leaves alot of headroom. if we then switch to 120v AC we still only need 500mv output, the temperature may raise in comparison to the 100v AC but it still should be substantially less than the HA5000 at max output with ideal 100v.

i could see the danger if it was rated for a certain temp at constant max draw like a hairdryer, but for headphone amp we need variable power and substantially less than max rated. if i am misunderstanding this please correct me so i can learn.

 

[slwiser]

Quote:

Originally Posted by euclid /img/forum/go_quote.gif but the HA5000 has to have a maximum wattage draw figure at its rated 1.2w output, and as far as heat is concerned the circuit should be able to handle the highest temp found at maximum wattage. so for our real world use we are not asking for 1.2w to drive headphones, lets say for arguments sake we need 500mw, that leaves alot of headroom. if we then switch to 120v AC we still only need 500mv output, the temperature may raise in comparison to the 100v AC but it still should be substantially less than the HA5000 at max output with ideal 100v. i could see the danger if it was rated for a certain temp at constant max draw like a hairdryer, but for headphone amp we need variable power and substantially less than max rated. if i am misunderstanding this please correct me so i can learn.

The difference between 120 and 100 volts I don't think is an issue with the operation of the HA5000. The only really issue is you want to use 220 volts or some other higher voltage rating then you will need that transformer and would want to have ample capacity in it. It the real world even 50 mW would be to much most of the time for most headphones. Headroom in abundance is available with the amplifier. Sensitivities are normally rated at dB per 1mw for headphones I think. So my UE9 that has a sensitivity of 96 dP would be asking for only 1mW to drive at that level. I think the W5000 is rated at 102 dB at 1mW.

Take the EarMax tube amps that only put out a little more than 50-100mW power and the Pro version goes to 150 mW. These handle headphones rather well with much less power so output power is not a real issue with headphones.

Here is a link discussing headphone sensitivity much like what I was poorly attempting to explain:
http://www.sonicstudios.com/mdr-f1.htm

 

[euclid]

i see now that its not important to the thread since he was talking 220v, but nevertheless good info to have.

Japanese gaming consoles are basically coninuous draw and dont have problems handling the overvoltage of US 120v, my Sega Saturn draws only 12w but the PS3 draws 380w. i assume the AudioTechnica amps are built to higher standards too.

 

[Sovkiller]

Guys is not only the heat, we do not know if the PSU is regulated or not, you do not necesarily need a regulated PSU to have a good one, in which case the demands will increase with the excess of voltage from the AC line. Let's say that you have cap rated for 35 volts, and they are working pretty close to this value, to overload them 20% is not funny at all...we are not talking of slightly increase, we are talking of 20%-25% increase in the voltage...BTW somwtimes the voltage fluctuates and you get up to 130 volts and even more in some places...

Just as an example, I use to have a japanese Pioneer vintage receiver, and I used to hook it directly to the line, sometimes the amp shut down, as it was overloaded...it was hot like an electric iron sometimes...

 

[Fitz]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdimitri /img/forum/go_quote.gif And im curious about the fitz mod.. does it really make it THAT much better? (esp. more bass would be good if ha5000 has less bass)

Better is subjective, depending on if you like the change or not, but the difference is certainly quite significant. It's not one of those numerous "I think I can almost hear a difference, sort of" type of mods.

 

[euclid]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sovkiller /img/forum/go_quote.gif Guys is not only the heat, we do not know if the PSU is regulated or not, you do not necesarily need a regulated PSU to have a good one, in which case the demands will increase with the excess of voltage from the AC line. Let's say that you have cap rated for 35 volts, and they are working pretty close to this value, to overload them 20% is not funny at all...we are not talking of slightly increase, we are talking of 20%-25% increase in the voltage...BTW somwtimes the voltage fluctuates and you get up to 130 volts and even more in some places... Just as an example, I use to have a japanese Pioneer vintage receiver, and I used to hook it directly to the line, sometimes the amp shut down, as it was overloaded...it was hot like an electric iron sometimes...

in that case a fuse is probibly inline to prevent overvoltage from a surge, if the 120v AC exceeds that in normal operation it will blow the fuse, no?

and likewise im sure in Japan the AC surges 10v at times so its relative.

 

[slwiser]

Quote:

Originally Posted by jdimitri /img/forum/go_quote.gif And im curious about the fitz mod.. does it really make it THAT much better? (esp. more bass would be good if ha5000 has less bass)

Those mods do make a difference. I had my stock and SK138s modified version in hand and compared both. I also had SK138's ATH-A900LTDs with those mods and my stock version and did the same comparison. The difference was major on the A900LTDs while the difference was less on the W5000 but no less noticeable. I personally thought that it killed a little bit of the soundstage but now that I have the UE9 I thinking about it may have actually made the soundstage more coherent than it is on the stock version. The mod also made the frequencies more integrated from bass to the highs. I could not say whether it was more or less bass but better integration is what I thought about it.

This is the link for that comparison:http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showth...38+ath-a900ltd