[yokochamas]

I didn't find a thread about this exactly. I had a slip of hand while opening my A-700s for modifying, and pulled the copper wire from it's solder point in the right side cup. I found a contact point on the mound of solder and taped the wire there, and this worked until i suppose it moved too much with normal headphone handling. i fixed it again, and it stopped working again, and i hit the headphones out of frustration. i tried fixing it again, which was difficult... and i hit it a number of times more. i am not proud that i did, but it is so. in that act, the red wire also disconnected, and i was able to regain some sort of signal by taping it to the solder. from there, the sound varied from a barely present, old radio sounding signal in the right cup, to all bass and no other signal in the left cup, to a weak but fairly balanced signal across both channels but with a tinny sound in the right.
 
i haven't tried to simply resolder because i've been interested in switching to the TRP50s. but, before i do that, i wanted to see if i could fix these now as i rather enjoy them despite their lack of midrange, and i feel bad for mucking them up and treating them poorly for the first time in the two years i've had them.
 
so, does it sound like i may have damaged the drivers, or will this likely be solved by resoldering? i don't expect touching the wire to the solder would be the same as soldering it properly, but i am worried that what did work before (taping the wire to the solder) no longer works now, and that the sound in both cups is wonked.
 
connections in the left cup seem fine.

 

[Mad Max]

Yes, resolder.

 

[nullstring]

Not sure how you could manage to break the wires off of the driver so easily.. but resoldering them will probably make them good as new

 

[yokochamas]

After resoldering the channels seem even but the volume comes through a lot lower and there's a definite lack of fullness, both bass and mid. i am disappointed.

 

[Mad Max]

Sounds like you might have cold solder joints or some kind of poor connection.  Photos?

 

[yokochamas]

In my sudden wish to hear SMiLE last night, i tapped on the drivers with a hammer to see if that might bring a change. it brought the sound to near original, with what i perceived to be some still odd phasing sensation between channels. well, some more taps later, sound barely comes through... so it seems i have ruined them. but, this seems to suggest it wasn't a cold solder problem, i think?

 

[nikongod]

What does the ohm-meter tell you? 

 

[liamstrain]

Quote:

What does the ohm-meter tell you? 

+1
 
It still sounds like a cable/driver connection problem to me. I'd desolder all the pads, re-tin the cables, and start over. 

 

[yokochamas]

I don't have an ohm meter, but i suppose i can try soldering again. i have to assume that since the sound changed when tapping on the driver, the solder points aren't the problem now. i really think i just... put a hammer to my drivers, which says it all i fear.

 

[Mad Max]

Don't use large tools like hammers, please.  =0

 

[yokochamas]

I made a good resolder, and nothing changed. i tried adjusting it and burnt the circuit piece. the hammer made another appearance, and then i stared at them a while and said that's enough.
 

 
Goodbye first real headphones!
 
 

 
 
Nooooooooooooooooooooo!

 

[liamstrain]

Before you trash them... the only thing I would try, is to replace the wires entirely - those thin, enamel'd wires can be a pain in the ass and cause issues on rework. 
 
If that still doesn't fix them. Send them to me (and no more hammers).

 

[yokochamas]

Well, the paper thin metal piece one of the wires is soldered to detached altogether when the board was burnt under it. the same faint sound returned when i touched it back into place, but i'm not sure how i could reconnect it other than tape. i don't know how i would replace the wires, unless you mean to cut the ends off and reattach new ones?
 
i didn't plan on throwing them away. do you mean you want them to keep or to repair for me?

 

[liamstrain]

Well, if you were otherwise going to throw them away, I'd try to repair and keep them for myself. I could probably be convinced to try to repair them for you though... not sure if the shipping costs would be worth it though, depending on where you are. 
 
Yes, I meant removing the original wiring entirely and replacing with new. 
 
I'm not sure what you mean by the board the wire pad was on - is there an internal circuit board? or is it attached to the driver itself? You might be able to bypass and direct wire to the driver. (Edit - I think I see now, in the last picture...)
 
I still think all new wire (not enameled) will help - but yes, a lifted pad is problematic. 

 

[yokochamas]

To be clear, i should cut off some of that rubber shielding, then cut maybe an inch or two off the ends of the wires, and twist on (or solder together?) some new wires to then solder back to the metal pad things? i haven't soldered wires together before but i could try. what sort of wire would i need?
 
i don't think i'd send them for repair as i am ready to move on to a different headphone. however, if i cannot fix them i'll consider giving them to you for cost of shipping only. i really think i damaged the drivers, though.