[Zorander]

I've used the Microshar a few times in my portable setup and I personally like it. It sounds pretty darn neutral & open to me (what U-shaped EQ???) and its rechargeability is a big bonus to me over the Move. It is also smaller and lighter than the Move, which makes it a far more portable option. Those, and I am less afraid of potentially scratching the plastic enclosure compared to the Aluminium-bodied Move.

Cheers!

 

[holland]

At $56, it's OK. I wouldn't go more than that though. It's a typical Hammond enclosure (just like my CMoy, except the smaller size 2.6x2.6 square) with a double sided PCB and surface mounted components to save space. It's tall, for what it is, IMO, and could be thinner to more easily slip into a pocket.

The turn-on thump and the no power switch in the volume is probably the most common complaint. I actually prefer to leave my headphones plugged in and just power on and off via the knob or button.

For some, the hiss is also an issue, for others it's not. I found the gain to be too high as all my headphones don't break the 10 o'clock position before it gets ridiculously loud. The high gain also attributes to hissing with higher sensitivity headphones, as anyone in the DIY community can attest to. I would say a gain of 5 would be better as default, instead of the 9 that is present and make 9 an option.

For the price, IMO, the Go-Vibe V6 is better (when it was at closeout), and from specs the Go-Vibe V7 will be better at full-price and a Mini3 is definitely better. Go-Vibe and Mini3 both have a charging circuit as well, but nowhere near the battery life.

The construction was flawed for me. There was a piece of metal from a capacitor (most likely) that was snipped and left on the PCB to float around and short whatever it contacts. Flux was still present on the PCB (along with fingerprints). As most people that do electronics knows, flux corrodes as it's mildly acidic. However, you'll never know unless you open it and "void" your warranty. Sloppy construction, very sloppy, but easily remedied.

The fit of the faceplates were fine, but do check the nuts on the headphone jack as mine were loose as well.

IMO, these are serious detractors from a professional level product. However, once I cleaned the PCB and tightened the nuts, it's fine. Fortunately the flux was present to stick the component leg and add serious resistance to it flopping around.

Sonically, I found it mildly u-shaped and the sound was clean once you get loud enough to get past the hiss. I don't feel that anything really stands out to justify a full price of $135 + shipping though, with the other options in this price range in the market. Given the quality of workmanship, I'd have to say that is a "do not buy" at that price. There are many other fish in the sea. Go-Vibe V7, Norm does excellent work, but may be sold out already. Little-Dot MK1, I have an LDM+ and the quality of the work is very good as well, IMO.

 

[Dara_D]

Quote:

Originally Posted by holland /img/forum/go_quote.gif At $56, it's OK. I wouldn't go more than that though. It's a typical Hammond enclosure (just like my CMoy, except the smaller size 2.6x2.6 square) with a double sided PCB and surface mounted components to save space. It's tall, for what it is, IMO, and could be thinner to more easily slip into a pocket. The turn-on thump and the no power switch in the volume is probably the most common complaint. I actually prefer to leave my headphones plugged in and just power on and off via the knob or button. For some, the hiss is also an issue, for others it's not. I found the gain to be too high as all my headphones don't break the 10 o'clock position before it gets ridiculously loud. The high gain also attributes to hissing with higher sensitivity headphones, as anyone in the DIY community can attest to. I would say a gain of 5 would be better as default, instead of the 9 that is present and make 9 an option. For the price, IMO, the Go-Vibe V6 is better (when it was at closeout), and from specs the Go-Vibe V7 will be better at full-price and a Mini3 is definitely better. Go-Vibe and Mini3 both have a charging circuit as well, but nowhere near the battery life. The construction was flawed for me. There was a piece of metal from a capacitor (most likely) that was snipped and left on the PCB to float around and short whatever it contacts. Flux was still present on the PCB (along with fingerprints). As most people that do electronics knows, flux corrodes as it's mildly acidic. However, you'll never know unless you open it and "void" your warranty. Sloppy construction, very sloppy, but easily remedied. The fit of the faceplates were fine, but do check the nuts on the headphone jack as mine were loose as well. IMO, these are serious detractors from a professional level product. However, once I cleaned the PCB and tightened the nuts, it's fine. Fortunately the flux was present to stick the component leg and add serious resistance to it flopping around. Sonically, I found it mildly u-shaped and the sound was clean once you get loud enough to get past the hiss. I don't feel that anything really stands out to justify a full price of $135 + shipping though, with the other options in this price range in the market. Given the quality of workmanship, I'd have to say that is a "do not buy" at that price. There are many other fish in the sea. Go-Vibe V7, Norm does excellent work, but may be sold out already. Little-Dot MK1, I have an LDM+ and the quality of the work is very good as well, IMO.

Dear Holland,

we read your review and we are very happy that you spend time and wrote this.

BUT, while I was reading this, I mentioned couple of WRONG STATEMENT. you have mentioned “There was a piece of metal from a capacitor (most likely) that was snipped and left on the PCB to float around and short whatever it contacts”, NOW this is a first time that we hear something like that and I believe the reason is that you bought this product USED from “Chris_Himself”, is that right?
And if you HAVEN’T OPENED the case yet (Which you did) we will be glad to change it for you. (FOR Anyone)

WHY? BECAUSE WE GIVE YOU A VERY HIGH QUALITY AMP COMPARE TO WHAT YOU JUST NAMED IS BETTER AT THIS PRICE. The boards are mostly soldered with LEAD FREE SOLDER and IR. And believe it or not, we do check these amps ONE BY ONE to make sure NOTHING is going wrong with them. So the chance that you buy an (What you called) “Sloppy AMP” is absolutely NONE. (0%) UNLESS you buy it USED from someone who opened the case and Experimented on the board. Which I am sure you KNOW.

Now, THE MOST SURPRISING THING THAT I READ IN YOU STATEMENT ABOVE was this :
“As most people that do electronics knows, flux corrodes as it's mildly acidic”
Well, as any professional knows, WE DON’T USE ACIDIC FLUX IN ELECTRONIC (AT ALL, AND AGAIN, THIS IS THE FIRST TIME WE HEARD THIS). ALSO, we use THE NO CLEAN & NON-CORROSIVE FLUX desired specially for electronic applications with conductive 10E18 OHM.(so I can say that your entire statement about the flux is WRONG)
WE REALLY WILL BE GLAD IF YOU KNOW THIS BEFORE WRITING A REVIEW. But if you want to know and have any technical question like this, we will be glad to help you by giving you a correct ANSWER.

And so as the GAIN, we do give you option to buy the AMP with any gain that you want, but again, since you bought this amp USED there wasn’t any option. I also believe that you KNEW that.

ABOUT THE “HISS”, LET ME ASK YOU THIS:
DO YOU KNOW WHAT HISS IS?
All electronic amp that you see in the market right now have “HISS”. YES ALL OF THEM, BUT WHAT MAKES THEM DIFFERENT IS THE PRECENTAGE OF THAT HISS. Our product has less than 1mV hiss. And as we tested a lot of other amp which are in the range on $400 - $500, they have more than 5mV HISS.

WHEN YOU SAY “headphone jack as mine were loose”, AGAIN, that REFERS TO THE USED AMP THAT YOU BOUGHT. WE WILL BE HAPPY TO CHANGE IT FOR YOU IF YOU HAVEN’T TOUCHED THE WARRANTEE LABEL.

SO WHAT I AM TELLING YOU IS, I will be very happy to sell you an AMP for the regular price $135 and then if you can open the case and see there is any Sign of “Sloppiness” (WHAT YOU SAY) on the board. BUT SINCE YOU BOUGHT IT USED, THE REVIEW BECOMES absolutely INACCURATE.

 

[soloz2]

I do have to say that I was not surprised at all by holland's remarks about what he saw upon opening the amp. the whole thing looks and feels cheap on the outside, and while it does not necessarily indicate what is on the inside, at the $135 price point a better case is warranted. I would expect that kind of casework and loud turn on thump from a $56 amp, but once you get into the $100+ price range there are several amps that look and sound better.

 

[holland]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dara_D /img/forum/go_quote.gif BUT, while I was reading this, I mentioned couple of WRONG STATEMENT. you have mentioned “There was a piece of metal from a capacitor (most likely) that was snipped and left on the PCB to float around and short whatever it contacts”, NOW this is a first time that we hear something like that and I believe the reason is that you bought this product USED from “Chris_Himself”, is that right? And if you HAVEN’T OPENED the case yet (Which you did) we will be glad to change it for you. (FOR Anyone) WHY? BECAUSE WE GIVE YOU A VERY HIGH QUALITY AMP COMPARE TO WHAT YOU JUST NAMED IS BETTER AT THIS PRICE. The boards are mostly soldered with LEAD FREE SOLDER and IR. And believe it or not, we do check these amps ONE BY ONE to make sure NOTHING is going wrong with them. So the chance that you buy an (What you called) “Sloppy AMP” is absolutely NONE. (0%) UNLESS you buy it USED from someone who opened the case and Experimented on the board. Which I am sure you KNOW. Now, THE MOST SURPRISING THING THAT I READ IN YOU STATEMENT ABOVE was this : “As most people that do electronics knows, flux corrodes as it's mildly acidic” Well, as any professional knows, WE DON’T USE ACIDIC FLUX IN ELECTRONIC (AT ALL, AND AGAIN, THIS IS THE FIRST TIME WE HEARD THIS). ALSO, we use THE NO CLEAN & NON-CORROSIVE FLUX desired specially for electronic applications with conductive 10E18 OHM.(so I can say that your entire statement about the flux is WRONG) WE REALLY WILL BE GLAD IF YOU KNOW THIS BEFORE WRITING A REVIEW. But if you want to know and have any technical question like this, we will be glad to help you by giving you a correct ANSWER. And so as the GAIN, we do give you option to buy the AMP with any gain that you want, but again, since you bought this amp USED there wasn’t any option. I also believe that you KNEW that. ABOUT THE “HISS”, LET ME ASK YOU THIS: DO YOU KNOW WHAT HISS IS? All electronic amp that you see in the market right now have “HISS”. YES ALL OF THEM, BUT WHAT MAKES THEM DIFFERENT IS THE PRECENTAGE OF THAT HISS. Our product has less than 1mV hiss. And as we tested a lot of other amp which are in the range on $400 - $500, they have more than 5mV HISS. WHEN YOU SAY “headphone jack as mine were loose”, AGAIN, that REFERS TO THE USED AMP THAT YOU BOUGHT. WE WILL BE HAPPY TO CHANGE IT FOR YOU IF YOU HAVEN’T TOUCHED THE WARRANTEE LABEL. SO WHAT I AM TELLING YOU IS, I will be very happy to sell you an AMP for the regular price $135 and then if you can open the case and see there is any Sign of “Sloppiness” (WHAT YOU SAY) on the board. BUT SINCE YOU BOUGHT IT USED, THE REVIEW BECOMES absolutely INACCURATE.

Hi Dara_D,

What's with the caps? Are you "yelling" at me? So, let me get this straight. You would exchange it based on shoddy craftsmanship assuming I didn't open it? If I didn't open it, how would I know? Think about that please, if you possess superior intelligence, as your response intimates. I suggest you spend more time working on clean up stages before casing. It's as simple as that.

You can say whatever you want. The PCB was dirty. There was flux residue on it. I'm not about to go out and check for ROHS compliance or get a lab to test the flux to see what you used. Sorry, but that's just ridiculous.

Think what you want, but your post puts everything in perspective. Your comments are ridiculous. So, I bought the amp used, and in doing so, Chris_Himself slathered flux all over the board? LOL! What would be the purpose of that? Maybe I should have had CSI come over and take the fingerprint impression and run it through the FBI. Come on, get real.

Regarding the gain, that's correct, as I have stated. The default should be 5 instead of 9 and make 9 the option instead of forcing 9 out as the default. I checked your webpage, there's no gain option. However, from this thread I know I can order with a different gain. Thank you for being condescending. I know what hiss is. I know all about it. I know about the ever presence of noise, but thanks for taking the time to explain it to me IN CAPS. There's a reason why most vendors don't ship a portable product with such high gain. It amplifies noise, that coupled with headphones with sensitivity into the 115+dB rating it's a bad match.

Since you have trouble reading, take this note. I AM NOT THE ONLY ONE WHO REPORTED HISS. EVEN SKYLAB REPORTS HISSING.

Thanks for your time. Contrary to your opinion of your own product, your amp is not high quality. Sorry.

I don't care about your warranty, to be honest. As if anyone would know without voiding the warranty in the process. Lovely how you insist on certain things and put a label on the case so nobody would dare open it. Again sorry, but I don't intimidate easy.

AND PLEASE STOP THE SHOUTING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[immtbiker]

Dara_D,
In case you don't know, when you write in caps on the internet, it is considered the same as shouting in real life.

On a side note, I know that everything that a prideful manufacturer builds, should be done to the best of their ability. If the case seems cheap or a switch seems easily breakable, the price point needs to be taken into consideration, and that's what members are stating here. At the introductory price, people cannot expect military spec, but as soon as the regular price kicks into effect, that expectations for a quality build rise higher.

We all know that the use of Black Gate or a V-Cap capacitors alone, can equal the total price of this product. So we need to maintain a lower expectation of what we are going to get for a product in the lower $100's. Using the same thought process, when advertising a product, it should not be made to seem like it is a product worth many times more it's price. So I think that the thought processes of both sides are a little slanted.

Most Head-Fi manufacturers welcome users to be able to open their cases and see what's inside. There is no way of knowing what the build quality is, without seeing what makes it tick. Other portable amp manufacturers that are members here, even have you open their units to change out op-amps and change dip switches.

I believe it is Microshar's option to put a label on their unit that if they see torn, allows them to see it's been open. However, then Microshar has to expect to receive more returns for problems that I myself have spent hours on the phone with the builder fixing, so it doesn't have to be sent back.

Perhaps Dara_D needs to take Holland's unit back, and determine whether or not the soldering has been messed with, and take it from there. As far as a shaky port, that usually doesn't happen because someone opened it (unless the case with an o-ring, is what holds it together).

This can go back and forth forever, and I can only see the Microshar getting hurt by the bad press, and believe they need to take a look at the unit, make the proper assessments and determine whether or not it is from customer abuse, and come to an agreement with the buyer whether or not, a charge is applicable.

IMHO!

 

[kramer5150]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dara_D /img/forum/go_quote.gif Dear Holland, we read your review and we are very happy that you spend time and wrote this. BUT, while I was reading this, I mentioned couple of WRONG STATEMENT. you have mentioned “There was a piece of metal from a capacitor (most likely) that was snipped and left on the PCB to float around and short whatever it contacts”, NOW this is a first time that we hear something like that and I believe the reason is that you bought this product USED from “Chris_Himself”, is that right? And if you HAVEN’T OPENED the case yet (Which you did) we will be glad to change it for you. (FOR Anyone) WHY? BECAUSE WE GIVE YOU A VERY HIGH QUALITY AMP COMPARE TO WHAT YOU JUST NAMED IS BETTER AT THIS PRICE. The boards are mostly soldered with LEAD FREE SOLDER and IR. And believe it or not, we do check these amps ONE BY ONE to make sure NOTHING is going wrong with them. So the chance that you buy an (What you called) “Sloppy AMP” is absolutely NONE. (0%) UNLESS you buy it USED from someone who opened the case and Experimented on the board. Which I am sure you KNOW. Now, THE MOST SURPRISING THING THAT I READ IN YOU STATEMENT ABOVE was this : “As most people that do electronics knows, flux corrodes as it's mildly acidic” Well, as any professional knows, WE DON’T USE ACIDIC FLUX IN ELECTRONIC (AT ALL, AND AGAIN, THIS IS THE FIRST TIME WE HEARD THIS). ALSO, we use THE NO CLEAN & NON-CORROSIVE FLUX desired specially for electronic applications with conductive 10E18 OHM.(so I can say that your entire statement about the flux is WRONG) WE REALLY WILL BE GLAD IF YOU KNOW THIS BEFORE WRITING A REVIEW. But if you want to know and have any technical question like this, we will be glad to help you by giving you a correct ANSWER. And so as the GAIN, we do give you option to buy the AMP with any gain that you want, but again, since you bought this amp USED there wasn’t any option. I also believe that you KNEW that. ABOUT THE “HISS”, LET ME ASK YOU THIS: DO YOU KNOW WHAT HISS IS? All electronic amp that you see in the market right now have “HISS”. YES ALL OF THEM, BUT WHAT MAKES THEM DIFFERENT IS THE PRECENTAGE OF THAT HISS. Our product has less than 1mV hiss. And as we tested a lot of other amp which are in the range on $400 - $500, they have more than 5mV HISS. WHEN YOU SAY “headphone jack as mine were loose”, AGAIN, that REFERS TO THE USED AMP THAT YOU BOUGHT. WE WILL BE HAPPY TO CHANGE IT FOR YOU IF YOU HAVEN’T TOUCHED THE WARRANTEE LABEL. SO WHAT I AM TELLING YOU IS, I will be very happy to sell you an AMP for the regular price $135 and then if you can open the case and see there is any Sign of “Sloppiness” (WHAT YOU SAY) on the board. BUT SINCE YOU BOUGHT IT USED, THE REVIEW BECOMES absolutely INACCURATE.

Dara_D...

I think you should use this as an opportunity to level up your manufacturing process and PCB quality inspection. At the intro price of $56, I think people are not going to be so nit-picky. However... at the $115 mark the headfi community might be less forgiving. Just to let you know, its standard practice around here to open up amp circuits and visually inspect every component. Its only a matter of time before someone figures out what OP amps it uses. At that price you are going up against some VERY competent amp makers... Rockhopper audio, Headsave, iBasso...etc...

FWIW, I had the opportunity to listen to Hollands amp and noted some low level hiss too with my Jays IEMs. I also think gain of 9 is a little too high to offer as the standard for a highly portable amp. Perhaps its OK for a desktop amp designed for high impedance phones. But for portable use, and listening with balanced armature IEMs I found it a little too much for my tastes. By comparison, the Mini^3, Pint and govibe amps I have heard were all much lower gain (below 5), and none exhibited any audible hiss.

IMHO the turn off/on thump is not acceptable for a $115 amp. It was VERY loud with my moderate sensitivity 40 ohm q-jays. I would not want to plug in my 16 ohm d-jays into that amp very often. While it may not damage either IEM, its more a matter of leveling up to your competition (Mini^3, Pint, MisterX-XP and govibe for starters). None of which exhibit such power on/off transients.

I somewhat disgree with hollands "U" curve assessment. I found it pretty flat across the spectrum.... But that was pushing low impedance IEMs. I didn't demo it with higher impedance phones (which holland may have done to come to his impression).

I also think holland deserves a little credibility here. He is a newer member, but IMHO anyone who successfully manages to build an Alien-DAC as his second DIY project deserves some credit as a DIY builder. IMHO the SMT components on that PCB are VERY small.

Please do not take these comments the wrong way. I think you have a very good sounding amp with a lot of potential. It just so happens to be in a very competitive market segment.

 

[holland]

Quote:

Originally Posted by immtbiker /img/forum/go_quote.gif Perhaps Dara_D needs to take Holland's unit back, and determine whether or not the soldering has been messed with, and take it from there. As far as a shaky port, that usually doesn't happen because someone opened it (unless the case with an o-ring, is what holds it together).

Thanks immtbiker.

It's not necessary to take back. I'm generally fine with it as is, in terms of performance and a different unit won't change that opinion. I know Chris_Himself, he can't solder. He has no reason to try to change any SMD components, let alone smear flux everywhere.

Yes, the casing is cheap ($2.64 from mouser for 1 unit, bulk is cheaper), and my hand built cmoy uses the same case in a larger size. Some vendors in the same price range $80-$150 uses the aluminum extruded Hammond cases with custom faceplates, not the plastic. It's larger, yes, but with aluminum end caps it's also thinner without the impression of being "plastic". It's a trade off, I understand that.

The casing doesn't require the front panel nuts/o-ring be removed. It slides out, front and back panels on the case. http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1593K.pdf

My primary issue is the seemingly lack of cleaning, and I did examine the solder joints with a 10x loupe first and then a 30x loupe again later after cleaning, but I didn't comment about that on this thread. As they say, first impressions happen only once, and there's no taking that back no matter what happens after that.

Some members have stated that the chip markings were removed. Mine were not, along with the flux definitely indicates the last steps were skipped. Somebody definitely forgot something.

I fully intended to open the unit and void the warranty, the lack of mention of the amp chips presented a puzzle that I wanted to solve, there's only so many low-voltage amplifier chips in the world and it would be easy to narrow down the selection. I also believe it is a 2-channel design, and not 3-channel like others in the price range. I have my answer now as the markings saved me the time and I already have resistors on order to change the gain and am thinking about wiring in a flush mounted sliding switch for the battery, so it's really not necessary to take any action beyond that.

I found the amp chips intriguing. I was, at first, curious to know if it was a dc/dc step up + standard opamp. It's not. I liked the space conscious design. I probably would have traded off height for length and slimness, like a LDM+

Anyway, I have no more comments to add.

Edit: Regarding the u-shape. To my ears it's not really a U, but subtle increase, maybe 1dB on the extremities. I listened at night with a set of headphones that I'm trying really hard to like (I packed all my other headphones away so I have no choice) and I noticed it. Very very subtle, but it's to my ears. It could also be that my other setup causes a recession and the uAmp is really flat across. Again, I have no issues with the sound. None at all.

 

[MrScary]

Quote:

Originally Posted by holland /img/forum/go_quote.gif Thanks immtbiker. It's not necessary to take back. I'm generally fine with it as is, in terms of performance and a different unit won't change that opinion. I know Chris_Himself, he can't solder. He has no reason to try to change any SMD components, let alone smear flux everywhere. Yes, the casing is cheap ($2.64 from mouser for 1 unit, bulk is cheaper), and my hand built cmoy uses the same case in a larger size. Some vendors in the same price range $80-$150 uses the aluminum extruded Hammond cases with custom faceplates, not the plastic. It's larger, yes, but with aluminum end caps it's also thinner without the impression of being "plastic". It's a trade off, I understand that. The casing doesn't require the front panel nuts/o-ring be removed. It slides out, front and back panels on the case. http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1593K.pdf My primary issue is the seemingly lack of cleaning, and I did examine the solder joints with a 10x loupe first and then a 30x loupe again later after cleaning, but I didn't comment about that on this thread. As they say, first impressions happen only once, and there's no taking that back no matter what happens after that. Some members have stated that the chip markings were removed. Mine were not, along with the flux definitely indicates the last steps were skipped. Somebody definitely forgot something. I fully intended to open the unit and void the warranty, the lack of mention of the amp chips presented a puzzle that I wanted to solve, there's only so many low-voltage amplifier chips in the world and it would be easy to narrow down the selection. I also believe it is a 2-channel design, and not 3-channel like others in the price range. I have my answer now as the markings saved me the time and I already have resistors on order to change the gain and am thinking about wiring in a flush mounted sliding switch for the battery, so it's really not necessary to take any action beyond that. I found the amp chips intriguing. I was, at first, curious to know if it was a dc/dc step up + standard opamp. It's not. I liked the space conscious design. I probably would have traded off height for length and slimness, like a LDM+ Anyway, I have no more comments to add. Edit: Regarding the u-shape. To my ears it's not really a U, but subtle increase, maybe 1dB on the extremities. I listened at night with a set of headphones that I'm trying really hard to like (I packed all my other headphones away so I have no choice) and I noticed it. Very very subtle, but it's to my ears. It could also be that my other setup causes a recession and the uAmp is really flat across. Again, I have no issues with the sound. None at all.

56.00 yes 100.00 hardly

 

[Chris_Himself]

im a novice and when i met up with kramer and holland, they heard what i heard which was the hiss, and there is certainly an amount of audible hiss when inserting the headphones right away.

and no. i cant solder, i HAD opened up the case, and i cant report anything besides the use of two opamps which would report that this would probably be a high gain amp.

if you had shown us a spec sheet, we would have been obliged to correct ourselves. i dont even know what flux is btw.

but i think youre taking our statements out of context, i was MORE than happy with the amp upon initial inspection, but after the price jump and hearing what a Go-Vibe 6 sounded like, i might have been a little more critical.

 

[TheStig]

Alright, I've got a question... What happens if I can't get it to shut off by pulling out the mini plugs?

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheStig /img/forum/go_quote.gif Alright, I've got a question... What happens if I can't get it to shut off by pulling out the mini plugs?

haha! you tell the manufacture that they should have installed a normal switch... and then have them ignore you!

 

[niko-time]

Well, I just received it today (thanks soloz). I have found that click when you first plug the earphones and source into it fairly quiet and it didn't frustrate me in the slightest. I don't mind the fact about the mini plug switch thing, minor inconvenience, but for the money I'm not complaining.

It sounds quiet nice as well.

All in all, I'm very happy with the purchase.

 

[soloz2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by niko-time /img/forum/go_quote.gif Well, I just received it today (thanks soloz). I have found that click when you first plug the earphones and source into it fairly quiet and it didn't frustrate me in the slightest. I don't mind the fact about the mini plug switch thing, minor inconvenience, but for the money I'm not complaining. It sounds quiet nice as well. All in all, I'm very happy with the purchase.

just to clarify Niko-time got his when the price was $56. I hold the same stance, at $56 it's a good deal and the few things that need to be updated are but annoyances at that price. At the full retail price it can't even make it into the same league as other amps in the price range... let along be competitive.

 

[applevalleyjoe]

I LOVE my little 107B! No HISS, minute pop, and a great sound! Granted, my RSA SR71 sounds much more refined and is built like a tank but for the price and sound quality this is one heck of a value. I can't wait for the inevitable UPGRADE....way to go microshar!!!