[drc73rp]

I ordered some white and black fuses to try out in my DAC and amp. I'll report back if I notice any improvements. At the prices they're going for it's worth the risk for a little bit of fun and I'm only doing it because I'm done with the other tweaks (fiber optic lan, streamer and DDC, power conditioner and cables) so hopefully I will hear the difference.

 

[drc73rp]

Ordered some silver core cables for my HEKSE as well. While I can't really tell if it's real silver as advertised unless i strip and burn the ends (even then), it's definitely better than stock cable in ergonomics, build quality and overall detail and transparency.

 

[cdacosta]

I ordered some white and black fuses to try out in my DAC and amp. I'll report back if I notice any improvements. At the prices they're going for it's worth the risk for a little bit of fun and I'm only doing it because I'm done with the other tweaks (fiber optic lan, streamer and DDC, power conditioner and cables) so hopefully I will hear the difference.

If you are replacing glass fuses, I think you will be pleasantly surprised with the difference. I am interested in knowing the sonic character difference between the white and black. If you have a contact enhancer like Furutech Nano Liquid I recommend you use it with the new fuses. Further enhances them.

 

[amix]

How do I determine which fuses I need? How many are there, typically, in a device? For example, my preamp has this:

Is this the fuse people upgrade? And how does this translate to the offer on AliExpress? All they have is an Amps rating and a size in millimetres.

My power amplifier wants this:

What does "DELAY" stand for in the above illustration? Is that another word for "slow blow"?

Thanks!

Oh, and does it make sense to get a 3A instead of a 2A?

 

[Ghoostknight]

Is this the fuse people upgrade? And how does this translate to the offer on AliExpress? All they have is an Amps rating and a size in millimetres.

yes pretty much, unless there are more inside the device, than you can upgrade these too

My power amplifier wants this:

looks like you need a 2A slow blow for 220V or 3,15A slow blow for 110-120V

you could also take the current fuse out and look on the rating that is marked on the fuse and just buy one to replace it, i think pretty much all audiophile aftermarket fuses are slow blow

What does "DELAY" stand for in the above illustration? Is that another word for "slow blow"?

no idea, yea maybe it stands for slow blow, or "slow" was badly translated

 

[amix]

I bought these, in aluminium with ceramic beads.
I know many here have them. Are your ceramic beads also larger than the steel ones?

 

[amix]

yes pretty much, unless there are more inside the device, than you can upgrade these too
[...]
you could also take the current fuse out

Ok, thanks, will do!

 

[De7mi]

hello guys,

Any recommendations for occ copper xlr interconnect cables?

I have not tried silver before if anyone can tell me the sonic difference between it and silver I would really appreciate it!
Thanks

 

[kenincalgary]

I bought these, in aluminium with ceramic beads.
I know many here have them. Are your ceramic beads also larger than the steel ones?

 

[kenincalgary]

I use a lot of these in my 2 sub system. They're quite effective and make a great performing combo when paired with an absorptive solution like Isoacoustics.

You can improve their performance by removing the black o-ring.

 

[cdacosta]

hello guys,

Any recommendations for occ copper xlr interconnect cables?

I have not tried silver before if anyone can tell me the sonic difference between it and silver I would really appreciate it!
Thanks

Budget, use (what is the gear that is being connected) and your preference of sonic character?

 

[De7mi]

Budget, use (what is the gear that is being connected) and your preference of sonic character?

Budget 200 usd for 1 meter. Xlr pair between Ferrum wandla to holo bliss.
I prefer fuller sound and big sound stage and high clarity without harshness and tight controlled bass. Also fast sound.

 

[cdacosta]

I will share my recommendation, in stair steps. Think of each step as starter, then better, to absolutely stunning.

Option #1 (the starter) - Clone Nordost Odin 2 balanced XLR interconnects. Alternatively for a slightly warmer presentation, the clone Odin Gold balanced XLR interconnects. These cables are the best value to performance ratio I have experienced to date. About $60 USD for a meter pair for either models.

Here is where I purchased my Odin Gold. The Odin 2 I purchased over two years ago and cannot see it on Aliexpress anymore. Will include a pic of them in the last (Ultimate upgrade) form:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...t_main.10.16ed1802U5MLJr&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Upgrade #1: Replace both ends with solderless EIZZ XLR Tellurium Copper connectors. If you have access to Furutech Nano Liquid, use it on all contacts inside the connectors and contact points to the components. Cost about $75 USD for the set of 4 connectors and heat shrink. Here is where I purchased them and will include a pic of mine:
https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251...t_main.30.16ed1802U5MLJr&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Ultimate upgrade: Clone Nordost Odin 2 or Odin Gold cable. Upgrade the connectors, ditching the soldered connections. And lastly add a good ground cable and good passive ground box. If you have access to Furutech Nano Liquid, use it on all contacts inside the connectors and contact points to the components. Cost of adding a good ground box with ground cables if my DIY is approx. $100 - $120 USD. You can use my DIY recipe for the whole thing or get a good passive ground box of at least 2KG mineral weight. I am not kidding, In this form, I would put these cables up against "any" multi thousand dollar pair of interconnects. Will upgrade system performance dramatically by lowering the noise floor of the DAC's output stage and cable. I can go on and on how good this cable setup is and what it does for the system. But to keep costs down you have to DIY the ground cable and ground box.

Downside is the Odin 2 or Odin Gold cable needs about 600 hours of signal burn-in or burn-in using a cable cooker to sound best. The burn-in swings are crazy with this cable, so be forewarned.

 

[musicinmymind]

I use a lot of these in my 2 sub system. They're quite effective and make a great performing combo when paired with an absorptive solution like Isoacoustics.

You can improve their performance by removing the black o-ring.

I am planning to buy ceramic and steel ones for WA33 AMP, which is 25 kgs. Will this be good option for it?

Also why we need to remove o-ring, I though it was part of absorptive material.

 

[kenincalgary]

I am planning to buy ceramic and steel ones for WA33 AMP, which is 25 kgs. Will this be good option for it?

Also why we need to remove o-ring, I though it was part of absorptive material.

25kg is more than any component I'm using them with so I can't offer meaningful input on that. Fortunately they're cheap to experiment with. The last time I compared ceramic to steel I preferred steel, though that system iteration was not nearly as resolving as it is now (thanks to rochelle salt and hBN used with ground boxes).

Removing the o-ring lets the device operate more like the roller block design that it mimics, the o-ring impedes the free motion that is its principle of operation. I don't think the ring is very effective at dampening since removing it sounded better in my system.
Removing the ring makes it more like these https://www.symposiumusa.com/rollerblocks.html

Test it either way and pick the solution that works best for your system.