[Kdot]

Hello,

This may be a stupid question, so apologies in advance.

It was intention to solder the PCB pads to the tube socket pins tonight. I noticed my jumper wire between the 6SL7 heater pads connects the HT5 pad to the HT8_1 pad, and the HT6 pad to the HT7_1 pad.

Looking at the manual, I see the jumper connects HT5 to HT7_1 and HT6 to HT8_1. Does it make any difference? Just wanted to be sure before soldering the PCB, in case I need to rewire it.

Thanks a lot for the help.

It doesn't matter. If it did, the guide would tell you to use two different color cables (it's laid out smartly in that way). This is just to bridge these connections!

 

[Gulipan]

It doesn't matter. If it did, the guide would tell you to use two different color cables (it's laid out smartly in that way). This is just to bridge these connections!

Makes total sense, feel a little dumb for asking Didn't want to screw anything up before attaching the PCB to the tube sockets and gave this more thought than necessary.

Anyway, thanks a lot for your help!

 

[khaine1711]

Makes total sense, feel a little dumb for asking Didn't want to screw anything up before attaching the PCB to the tube sockets and gave this more thought than necessary.

Anyway, thanks a lot for your help!

Don't worry, better be careful - I even trace the wire in the manual by eyes to see which pad goes into which xD.

If the manual does not require you to do something in a specific way, then it does not matter which way. L0rdGwyn is so throughout with the build instruction I could not even fathom the time and the effort put in the manual ...

Still I earn for another L0rdGwyn OTL project mentioned a couple page back

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Yeah the heater jumper wire orientation doesn't matter, same question was posed some pages back.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/aegis-diy-tube-headphone-amplifier.965530/post-17901081

The manual took an incredible amount of time, looking back I think I was insane to do it, but glad that I did. Honestly, it's hard for me to imagine doing a project like this again, it was a massive time and money sink. Future efforts will probably be focused on commercial releases.

 

[Toonartist]

Yeah the heater jumper wire orientation doesn't matter, same question was posed some pages back.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/aegis-diy-tube-headphone-amplifier.965530/post-17901081

The manual took an incredible amount of time, looking back I think I was insane to do it, but glad that I did. Honestly, it's hard for me to imagine doing a project like this again, it was a massive time and money sink. Future efforts will probably be focused on commercial releases.

The quality of the manual was off the charts... reading it a few times before any gear arrived I felt very confident about completing the build. I was able to see every step and resolve any questions I had before anything arrived. It was the perfect solution to for a beginner building their first amp! While I believe it would have been doable with basic diagrams etc, I don't think it would have been quite as enjoyable an experience as it was. Certainly a project for you to look back on with pride

 

[Gulipan]

Don't worry, better be careful - I even trace the wire in the manual by eyes to see which pad goes into which xD.

If the manual does not require you to do something in a specific way, then it does not matter which way. L0rdGwyn is so throughout with the build instruction I could not even fathom the time and the effort put in the manual ...

Still I earn for another L0rdGwyn OTL project mentioned a couple page back

Yes, everything’s so painstakingly dissected and explained in the manual that it makes perfect sense that this would had been noted in case it mattered.

Yeah the heater jumper wire orientation doesn't matter, same question was posed some pages back.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/aegis-diy-tube-headphone-amplifier.965530/post-17901081

The manual took an incredible amount of time, looking back I think I was insane to do it, but glad that I did. Honestly, it's hard for me to imagine doing a project like this again, it was a massive time and money sink. Future efforts will probably be focused on commercial releases.

Sorry, didn’t mean to ask questions already solved. I skimmed through the last few pages but didn’t see that post.

I can't imagine the amount of work it must have taken. I put together a bottlehead crack some time ago and, even though everything was explained quite clearly in the manual, yours feels even more complete and detailed. Really fantastic job.

 

[mchuckp]

@L0rdGwyn or any other knowledgable person:

Transformer wiring question:

I'm currently working on the output transformer wiring and soldering on the six 10" wires. I soldered one on and got a good clean solder joint but when I went to reorient the wire after to straighten it, I noticed the pin turns with it. I assume it was shipped to me like this. It is pin 3 if that matters at all.

Is the a big deal or safe to assume that it is making the proper connection inside the transformer and don't worry about it? FYI after noticing this I added more solder near the base to see if that keeps it from moving and it worked. However, still didn't know if that could me the connection inside is compromised.

Thanks,
Mike

 

[miter53]

@L0rdGwyn or any other knowledgable person:

Transformer wiring question:

I'm currently working on the output transformer wiring and soldering on the six 10" wires. I soldered one on and got a good clean solder joint but when I went to reorient the wire after to straighten it, I noticed the pin turns with it. I assume it was shipped to me like this. It is pin 3 if that matters at all.

Is the a big deal or safe to assume that it is making the proper connection inside the transformer and don't worry about it? FYI after noticing this I added more solder near the base to see if that keeps it from moving and it worked. However, still didn't know if that could me the connection inside is compromised.

Thanks,
Mike

I had the same issue, and a small drop of CA glue at the base of the pin stopped it from rotating in the board. It might be possible to break the winding connection to the pin if it moves around too much.

 

[mchuckp]

@L0rdGwyn or any other knowledgable person:

Transformer wiring question:

I'm currently working on the output transformer wiring and soldering on the six 10" wires. I soldered one on and got a good clean solder joint but when I went to reorient the wire after to straighten it, I noticed the pin turns with it. I assume it was shipped to me like this. It is pin 3 if that matters at all.

Is the a big deal or safe to assume that it is making the proper connection inside the transformer and don't worry about it? FYI after noticing this I added more solder near the base to see if that keeps it from moving and it worked. However, still didn't know if that could me the connection inside is compromised.

Thanks,
Mike

This is what I got from Holger at Erhard Audio.

the transformer pins to move a bit, it is not an issue if they move a bit to the right or left, but try no to twist them 360 degrees.

 

[Kdot]

@goldwerger My tungstens finally came in and you were right, the aegis + tungsten is an amazing combo! I never would have known about the aegis without your tungsten review, thank you for putting me on to it!

 

[goldwerger]

@goldwerger My tungstens finally came in and you were right, the aegis + tungsten is an amazing combo! I never would have known about the aegis without your tungsten review, thank you for putting me on to it!

Hey, congrats! It is such a phenomenal combo. So glad you are getting to experience this beautiful synergy

 

[mchuckp]

Got a build question. I'm at the part of the build where you add some red and black wires to the small terminal strip along with a capacitor (pages 102-106). The manual says to use the upper lug for the black wires and lower lug for the red wires. Then add the capacitor to each side where the wires go in and solder. When I look at the various pix in the manual, I'd swear both the red wires are in the top lug. I looked at the rest of the manual and do not see that anything else is added to this terminal strip. I would assume that it doesn't matter if the red went to the top or bottom lug since nothing else is attaching. The upper is easier to get a good connection as well sor would be my preference if it doesn't matter.

Am I right?

Thanks!

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Got a build question. I'm at the part of the build where you add some red and black wires to the small terminal strip along with a capacitor (pages 102-106). The manual says to use the upper lug for the black wires and lower lug for the red wires. Then add the capacitor to each side where the wires go in and solder. When I look at the various pix in the manual, I'd swear both the red wires are in the top lug. I looked at the rest of the manual and do not see that anything else is added to this terminal strip. I would assume that it doesn't matter if the red went to the top or bottom lug since nothing else is attaching. The upper is easier to get a good connection as well sor would be my preference if it doesn't matter.

Am I right?

Thanks!

I think you are confusing what I mean by top and bottom. Top is the lug closer to the back of the chassis, bottom is the lug closer to the front of the chassis. It doesn't matter if the leads go into the hole that is closer to the chassis on the terminal strip, or the one higher up, it is a singular piece of metal so the connection is the same. Just build as it looks in the photo and it will be fine. The main point is the red wires go to the positive end of the cap (side with no stripe) and the black wires go to the negative end of the cap (side with the stripe).

 

[mchuckp]

I think you are confusing what I mean by top and bottom. Top is the lug closer to the back of the chassis, bottom is the lug closer to the front of the chassis. It doesn't matter if the leads go into the hole that is closer to the chassis on the terminal strip, or the one higher up, it is a singular piece of metal so the connection is the same. Just build as it looks in the photo and it will be fine. The main point is the red wires go to the positive end of the cap (side with no stripe) and the black wires go to the negative end of the cap (side with the stripe).

Thanks for the clarification. I was thinking in terms of top and bottom. But yeah it appeared it didn’t matter which.

Appreciate it.

 

[mchuckp]

Unfortunately, I have a defective terminal block and have to get a replacement from Mouser and fix it. Below is what I assume I have to do and note that I do not have the Elma installed yet. I was attaching the side mounted choke and it told me to run a red stranded wire to terminal block.

1. Unscrew all the tube socket bolts on top of chassis and drop the board
2. Detach the various terminal block connections as the wires are too short
3. Flip board over and de-solder and replace crap block.
4. Reverse steps

For those who have done this does, is this correct? Did you leave the 3 green twisted wires and ground leads soldered or did you need to remove them to get the board flipped over? Seems to me getting the washer and nut BACK ON the tube sockets through the PCB is the biggest challenge. Any tips for that? Do I need to buy a magnetic M3 nut driver? Or needle nose pliers are good enough? Any other tips or tricks?

Attached is a pic of the current state of my build. It's the 2-hole terminal next to the 3 capacitors that needs replaced. When I went to put the red wire in for the side mounted choke it wouldn't screw down. Mouser was kind enough to overnight me this $1 replacement part.

Thanks!