[Marutks]

Seems to me getting the washer and nut BACK ON the tube sockets through the PCB is the biggest challenge. Any tips for that? Do I need to buy a magnetic M3 nut driver? Or needle nose pliers are good enough? Any other tips or tricks?

I used both.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001YHHK2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QBBG7NM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[mchuckp]

I used both.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001YHHK2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07QBBG7NM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Did you find the wrench not being magnetic was an issue? I don’t see that listed in the spec of what was linked.

 

[Marutks]

Did you find the wrench not being magnetic was an issue? I don’t see that listed in the spec of what was linked.

not a problem

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Unfortunately, I have a defective terminal block and have to get a replacement from Mouser and fix it. Below is what I assume I have to do and note that I do not have the Elma installed yet. I was attaching the side mounted choke and it told me to run a red stranded wire to terminal block.

1. Unscrew all the tube socket bolts on top of chassis and drop the board
2. Detach the various terminal block connections as the wires are too short
3. Flip board over and de-solder and replace crap block.
4. Reverse steps

For those who have done this does, is this correct? Did you leave the 3 green twisted wires and ground leads soldered or did you need to remove them to get the board flipped over? Seems to me getting the washer and nut BACK ON the tube sockets through the PCB is the biggest challenge. Any tips for that? Do I need to buy a magnetic M3 nut driver? Or needle nose pliers are good enough? Any other tips or tricks?

Attached is a pic of the current state of my build. It's the 2-hole terminal next to the 3 capacitors that needs replaced. When I went to put the red wire in for the side mounted choke it wouldn't screw down. Mouser was kind enough to overnight me this $1 replacement part.

Thanks!

You could try to keep the heater wires connected while you desolder the terminal block, if you can position the board in such a way that makes the work practical. If not removing the board entirely would be the next step. I would probably use a soldering wick to remove the solder on the bottom of the PCB under the block. Once you've wicked away the existing solder, I would hold the soldering tip to the pad on the bottom while applying some gentle pressure to the side of the terminal block on top to tilt it and effectively slide the pin out of the PCB pad while applying heat with the soldering iron. Once one pin is out removing the second will be simple. You just don't want to be too rough when moving components from a PCB as you do not want to damage the traces or the pads. So just be gentle while removing the block and applying heat to the pin on the bottom.

 

[mchuckp]

Thanks! Glad you called this out. Damagjng the board would probably bring rage and tears.

 

[Marutks]

I tried these tubes in my Aegis. They sound surprisingly well. ( not worse than Fivre 6V6 )
I will leave them in my amp!

 

[pravous]

I tried the Fivre 6v6 and my intial impressions were not favorable. Will have to try them again as they were competing against the El37 which arrived in the same package. Maybe a different input? If I recall I was running rca 6sl7 at the time.

 

[mchuckp]

Ok, newbie question. Just finished wiring my Aegis. Next step tells you to put the knobs on and explains the positions for low and high impedence. My brain isn't grasping clockwise vs anti-clockwise related to a position. I would have thought low is on the left and high on the right but the verbiage makes me think it is the other way around. Which is it?

FROM MANUAL:
19. Add the Audio Note 30mm knob (or other chosen knob) to the potentiometer. Add the Audio
Note 25mm knob (or other chosen knob) to the output switch. Viewed from the back, clockwise
position if low impedance, anticlockwise position is high impedance.

 

[mattiastomas]

Ok, newbie question. Just finished wiring my Aegis. Next step tells you to put the knobs on and explains the positions for low and high impedence. My brain isn't grasping clockwise vs anti-clockwise related to a position. I would have thought low is on the left and high on the right but the verbiage makes me think it is the other way around. Which is it?

FROM MANUAL:
19. Add the Audio Note 30mm knob (or other chosen knob) to the potentiometer. Add the Audio
Note 25mm knob (or other chosen knob) to the output switch. Viewed from the back, clockwise
position if low impedance, anticlockwise position is high impedance.

If you are looking at the amp from the back side, then turning left (counter-clockwise) is high impedance, turning right (clockwise) is low impedance.

 

[mchuckp]

If you are looking at the amp from the back side, then turning left (counter-clockwise) is high impedance, turning right (clockwise) is low impedance.

OK thanks. So I was reading it correctly.

So when I put on my selector knob it was cock eyed. I had to back it off to not rub on the paint on when side. Really bugs me. Anyone else have this issue? I don't see how I could have bent the shaft.

 

[AnyDave]

OK thanks. So I was reading it correctly.

So when I put on my selector knob it was cock eyed. I had to back it off to not rub on the paint on when side. Really bugs me. Anyone else have this issue? I don't see how I could have bent the shaft.

Bending the shaft would be difficult. Can you look on the inside and see if it's mounted flush?

Also, it could be the knob itself.

 

[mchuckp]

Bending the shaft would be difficult. Can you look on the inside and see if it's mounted flush?

Also, it could be the knob itself.

I removed the nut and found that I could pul the whole switch assembly upward. Guessing I let the weight of it pull it down when I attached and there was enough play in the hole of the chassis. By putting my finger under the board while tightening I was able to get it to sit flush. So glad it isn't bent. That would have been VERY frustrating after all that work.

Now time to test it!

 

[DenverW]

If you imagine a little arrow on the impedance knob, making it point towards the headphone jack is high impedance, pointing towards the on off switch is low impedance.

Feel free to correct me if I’m off on this. I prefer to think of it this way instead of imagining I’m facing a particular direction .

Another way I remember is, when facing the amp, knob all the way to the Left for Low and all the way to the rIght for hIgh. Left for low and riiiight for hiiigh. If I’m wrong I’m screwed, I’ll never unlearn that.

 

[mchuckp]

TESTING QUESTION:

@L0rdGwyn or others with technical prowess:

I did the resistance checks after completing the build. The 2nd set of tests (pg 122) asks you to test the left and right resistance at the output jack for both high and low on the output switch. It says they should be 4.5ohm and 1.2ohm. My high output checks out at 4.4ohm. But my low output was bouncing between 1.5-1.6ohm.

Is this okay or is there something I need to check?

Thanks.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

TESTING QUESTION:

@L0rdGwyn or others with technical prowess:

I did the resistance checks after completing the build. The 2nd set of tests (pg 122) asks you to test the left and right resistance at the output jack for both high and low on the output switch. It says they should be 4.5ohm and 1.2ohm. My high output checks out at 4.4ohm. But my low output was bouncing between 1.5-1.6ohm.

Is this okay or is there something I need to check?

Thanks.

That's fine, very much within tolerance.