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Aegis DIY Tube Headphone Amplifier
- Thread starter L0rdGwyn
- Start date
https://partsconnexion.com/products/duelund-0-22uf-600vdc-jdm-sn-cu-tinned-copper-foil-capacitor
Can I use this for Aegis ?
Guess it will be harder to secure.
Those are pretty big, will be hard to fit. Might be doable but no guarantee, I'd probably use a cap that is known to fit, like the V-Cap ODAMs in the BOM.
Excellent, thanks. I’ve ordered one of those and a couple of the 10uF rubicons you linked to as well…. Plus a spare original 22uF. They’re cheap enough and given the delivery charge is way more than the items, I may as well order them in case.
That’s one area of the chassis I have plenty of space. I’d like to maintain the the possibility of using the 10uF and the 22uF so may come up with a custom bracket to the right of the current one so I can connect to it without disturbing the existing wiring. Will proximity to the choke be an issue… or the length of wire from the capacitor to the terminal block?
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Yeah, if there one place to fit a big film cap, that's it! Shouldn't be a problem. No issues with proximity to the choke or wire length to the terminal block. The only potential issue with using the 4uF cap is a higher noise floor due to increased ripple, that's the only thing I'd look out for, but I would be surprised if it became audible with that change. Another advantage of the film cap is it will last forever. Compare the ripple current ratings of the electrolytics (10uF rated for 320mA) vs. the film cap (rated for 12A!). Ripple current are the 120Hz current pulses from the rectifier to recharge the cap as it drains to feed the following power supply.
Toonartist
Formerly known as dAndis67
Thanks. I’ve adapter the old terminal block to take both types of capacitors. Used a few layers of shrink wrap around the Neotech solid core and it’s now quite robust to support the bigger capacitor. I’ve added a lower hooking point so it’s easy to replace the big one with the normal ones as well. Is this likely to be an issue? CheersYeah, if there one place to fit a big film cap, that's it! Shouldn't be a problem. No issues with proximity to the choke or wire length to the terminal block. The only potential issue with using the 4uF cap is a higher noise floor due to increased ripple, that's the only thing I'd look out for, but I would be surprised if it became audible with that change. Another advantage of the film cap is it will last forever. Compare the ripple current ratings of the electrolytics (10uF rated for 320mA) vs. the film cap (rated for 12A!). Ripple current are the 120Hz current pulses from the rectifier to recharge the cap as it drains to feed the following power supply.
Edit… is there a site to compare the impact on ripple current… oh, and yeah, I noticed the 100k hour life. I think even I’d struggle to ware that out
![Face with tears of joy :joy: 😂](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f602.png)
![IMG_6918.jpeg IMG_6918.jpeg](https://cdn.head-fi.org/a/12391241.jpeg)
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Thanks. I’ve adapter the old terminal block to take both types of capacitors. Used a few layers of shrink wrap around the Neotech solid core and it’s now quite robust to support the bigger capacitor. I’ve added a lower hooking point so it’s easy to replace the big one with the normal ones as well. Is this likely to be an issue? Cheers
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As long as it can support the film cap, shouldn't be an issue. Even though it's a little big, should be relatively light. If you don't detect any noise issues with the 4uF cap, go with it then you can use your 274B without any concerns.
Toonartist
Formerly known as dAndis67
I think it should be good. The cap is 60g and the arms are quite stiff.
I think it should be good. The cap is 60g and the arms are quite stiff.
Maybe it's just for the photo, but note that the black leads it on the positive terminal and the red on the negative terminal in the pic. The film cap doesn't have polarity, so you can attach it in either direction.
Toonartist
Formerly known as dAndis67
Good to know. Oh, I just stuck that cap on to see if it fitted the hooks. Not soldered and will be removed when the new cap arrives. I’ll orientate it to match the current wire installation. If nothing else, at least I’ll find out if it impacts the noise floor. If it does and becomes a thing, I can also try the 10uF and accept a shorter tube life but it would be great if the 4uF worked without issue!Maybe it's just for the photo, but note that the black leads it on the positive terminal and the red on the negative terminal in the pic. The film cap doesn't have polarity, so you can attach it in either direction.
Had a nice conversation over the phone with Chris from Jupiter after reaching out to him about the issues with the 400V copper foil caps. Ultimately the cause isn't 100% clear, but I gather getting these caps down to sizes customers want creates manufacturing challenges that may be contributing, he is considering some product line adjustments. After our talk, I feel confident recommending the 600V caps. Chris also offered to send me a sample of his aluminum Vitamin-Q caps which I have been wanting to try, so at some point I'll do a little comparison to the copper foil, might make it into the BOM if they're as good as reported!
smodtactical
Headphoneus Supremus
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Also what are the thoughts on the nextgen rca connectors being worth it? They are pretty pricey. Any good sounding cheaper alternative?
https://www.amazon.ca/Terminal-Conn...=rca+female+connectors&qid=1716621236&sr=8-12
Any thoughts ?
Toonartist
Formerly known as dAndis67
Any thoughts ?
The amp is only as good as the signal receives and the RCA sockets are the first point of contact. Given the amount of effort required to build the amp, I feel that the WBT Nextgen socket is a good starting point. You could put cheaper sockets in but it feels like it goes against the idea of the amp TOTL. I would rather wait a bit longer and buy the best and install in once.
However, if you wanted to save a little, I probably wouldn't drop to those linked, maybe look at these from Yarbo, a German manufacturer.
Does anyone know phillips el34/6ca7 metal base? Are those good? Apparently were made in holland in 1950s, metal base, but the plastic thingy on the bottom near the pin, i saw theres a version that is brown plastic and one with black plastics.
Anyone heard how it sounds before?
Anyone heard how it sounds before?
Toonartist
Formerly known as dAndis67
I haven’t heard the metal base version but I do have a pair of Mullard EL34 XF2s. Very nice sounding tube and I believe the metal ones are better. Good balance to them
I see. Thanks for the info... locally for nos el34I haven’t heard the metal base version but I do have a pair of Mullard EL34 XF2s. Very nice sounding tube and I believe the metal ones are better. Good balance to them
Xf2 is 322 usd per pair
Phillips metal base is 451 per pair
ANd rft nos is 193 per pair
Im fully aware value is subjective but... wondering about inputs from the tube veterans here.. which of the above would be.. gold with aegis? Hehe.
All are from decent seller id say, they have their own tube testing, hichock or whatever
im somewhat trying to achieve.. buy once cry once, even though i know thats a lie ![Winking face with tongue :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: 😜](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f61c.png)
![Winking face with tongue :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: 😜](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f61c.png)
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