A Very Compact Hybrid Amp
Oct 4, 2010 at 9:47 PM Post #2,071 of 2,218
No worries about the front panels, had some free time so I threw something together that should work great.
 
Another question - I think the power switch I bought is gonna be too big to squeeze in on the back of the amp (i'm planning to mount the input jack, fuse holder, heater switch and power button on the back if I can). In an effort to shrink things up a bit, would a mini SPST toggle switch like this work for power? http://cgi.ebay.com/3-each-NEW-SPST-Mini-Toggle-Switch-6a-125V-msrp-6-00-/250704121030?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a5f214cc6#ht_500wt_1156
 
Oct 4, 2010 at 10:18 PM Post #2,072 of 2,218
I would not use anything rated less than 10A for AC Power. 15A to 20A would be a whole lot safer.
 
Head down to Rat Shack and see if they have something that fits the size you are looking for. Even if you end up not buying one of theirs, you get a better idea of what is available.
 
Oct 4, 2010 at 10:23 PM Post #2,073 of 2,218
We're talking 24 VAC / 1A adapter input being switched here, not mains, so any switch rated double that or more should be fine.   No problem using minis like the one you ref'd, maybe a local store like RS has one.
 
Quote:
would a mini SPST toggle switch like this work for power?

 
Oct 4, 2010 at 11:27 PM Post #2,074 of 2,218


Quote:
We're talking 24 VAC / 1A adapter input being switched here, not mains, so any switch rated double that or more should be fine.   No problem using minis like the one you ref'd, maybe a local store like RS has one.
 


Excellent, Thanks! just found this one at the ratshack, i'll swing by tomm - http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062503
 
Might just pick up the same thing in a DPDT for the heater switch. I'll have a much easier time making holes than cutting a rectangle
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Also, i'm debating just keeping the fuse on the inside (and having to deal with opening it up if it blows) to save room on the back panel. 
 
Oct 5, 2010 at 12:44 AM Post #2,075 of 2,218
 
Quote:
Also, i'm debating just keeping the fuse on the inside (and having to deal with opening it up if it blows) to save room on the back panel. 



I'd suggest doing just that. I didn't, and I find myself missing a power switch a lot. You only blow a fuse once or twice (hopefully
tongue.gif
) and switch the power switch every time you use the amp. It would probably beat plugging/unplugging the transformer or the fuse. In the computer engineering and probably elsewhere, that'd be called "optimizing the common case."
 
Oct 5, 2010 at 10:25 AM Post #2,076 of 2,218
Yes, mini SPDT toggles can be used for both power & heater switches (just don't confuse them in use).  Internal 1A (whatever your A/C adapter is rated for) slo-blow fuse w/tails, insulated well e.g. heatshrink, should suffice. 
http://cavalliaudio.com/cth/images/CTHWiringDiagram.jpg
The reason we do this is to avoid popping the fuse that is likely in your A/C adapter, they're nearly impossible to open w/o destroying & it's a bummer if/when you toast one by way of a 20¢ fuse.  Try to keep A/C wires short, well-insulated & against case back if you can. 
 
BTW I choose to forgo a fuse in my "fancy" CTH, relying on the one in the A/C adapter, having the room to do neat & insulated A/C input & switching.   And having proofed the build using an external fuse first.  Not usually recommended unless you are *really* confident in the build & can afford to pop the fuse in the A/C adapter if anything goes wrong.
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/pbcubed/?action=view&current=cth_new_inside-1.jpg

 
Quote:
Originally Posted by aphexii /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Might just pick up the same thing in a DPDT for the heater switch. I'll have a much easier time making holes than cutting a rectangle
smily_headphones1.gif

 
Also, i'm debating just keeping the fuse on the inside (and having to deal with opening it up if it blows) to save room on the back panel. 

 
Oct 5, 2010 at 7:13 PM Post #2,079 of 2,218


Quote:
Oops, yes.
 
Quote:



haha, no prob. Just wanted to make sure i wasn't missing something. After i mentioned DPDT yesterday (which is what the BOM calls for), i looked at the wiring diagram you posted and figured a single on/off SPST would work fine as well. 
 
Oct 5, 2010 at 11:00 PM Post #2,080 of 2,218
So as i'm sitting here browsing through the thread and looking at pictures, a newbie question comes to mind. Why do some have the ICH populated and others do not? (soldered empty pads)
 
Oct 6, 2010 at 7:18 AM Post #2,081 of 2,218
Any/all functional CTHs have ICH populated.  Some leave large, heat-sinked comps till the end to better manage their placement/clearance in the case.  Think a few bottom-mounted the regs to raise tube's profile WRT case lid like this (note: heatsink paddles on TO92 parts in pic below are totally unnecessary, I just have a thing for heatsinks):
http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y33/pbcubed/?action=view&current=cth_inside.jpg
but its easier to just get a "socket saver" to raise tube (like pic in my post a couple up).
 
Oct 6, 2010 at 1:40 PM Post #2,082 of 2,218
Hi all,
 
I attended the 2009 Rocky Mountain Audiofest and got the opportunity to listen to one of these amps in the headphone exhibit.
I believe a guy from Spruce Canyon Labs was there showing it off.  Well I took the information down and had planned to purchase a kit from the Spruce Canyon website and build one of these.
Alas, procrastination struck again and now when I try to find the kit, I see it may not be available.
So, I am wondering how to get a hold of one of these PCBs.
I see I can get a BOM off of the Cavalli site and can probably get the parts from mouser or digikey.
But I don't see where I can get a PCB.
 
Any help is appreciated.
 
Thanks,
Bob
 
Oct 6, 2010 at 4:47 PM Post #2,084 of 2,218
Thanks sachu,
 
I looked on the Cavalli website, but couldn't find a contact, email or phone.
I am assuming that the user 'runeight', is Dr. Cavalli, since he started this thread.
 
Let me know if that's incorrect.
 
Thanks,
Bob
 
Oct 6, 2010 at 5:03 PM Post #2,085 of 2,218


Quote:
Thanks sachu,
 
I looked on the Cavalli website, but couldn't find a contact, email or phone.
I am assuming that the user 'runeight', is Dr. Cavalli, since he started this thread.
 
Let me know if that's incorrect.
 
Thanks,
Bob

 
You are correct; however, he asked me to email him in regards to the boards. YGPM.
 
 

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