4 ETY in different case
Mar 27, 2004 at 11:52 AM Post #16 of 62
So, just to clarify things, could you tell us what you did, why and what things did you replace. I'd love to know the reason for all this madness and whether it was all worthwhile to you.

We're all curious in here
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Mar 27, 2004 at 2:15 PM Post #20 of 62
Components such as resistors and capacitors vary in price because of construction, quality, and precision. Metal film resistors are regarded as audiophile quality (do not have roll off at high frequencies) and are relatively expensive and in the case of capacitors, you want precision audio caps with low leakage. Good caps are VERY expensive and can cost $100 each.

Anyways...it seems that KPOT has himself a high quality cable with quality resistors and capacitors which can be switched through a selector switch so that the ER4 will perform as a 4P, 4S, or 4B. Nice nice...if the stock cable was cheap this would be a worthy cause.

What did you do with the ER6 driver? Did you put that one in the ER4 casing? Don't tell me you threw away the ER6 drivers
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Cheers


Quote:

Originally posted by KPOT
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Mar 27, 2004 at 2:56 PM Post #22 of 62
Quote:

Originally posted by KPOT
I have put er-4 drivers to er-6 casing. I don't know what to do with er-6 drivers...


Humm, get yourself Shure E2 and retrofit the ER6 transducers in the E2 shells if you can
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Seriously, if you did not destroy the ER4 shells, then you should try to put the ER6 transducers in it...

If not, send them to me
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I'll find good use for the ER6 transducers.
 
Mar 27, 2004 at 8:36 PM Post #23 of 62
I should get a spare cable from Ety to practice with, don't want to ruin my existing one and be left without usable Ety's. Maybe a Cardas cable with a (much) bigger shirt clip
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If this works I'm definately gonna dick around with my set to see what happens, though I don't know what's inside the ER-4s' in the way of resistors or capacitors or where such items would be located. I feel a frankenstein coming on hehe.

Anyone of the illustrious builders/modders with very good eyesight and a delicate touch want to have a crack at audiophiling my Ety's with supercomponents?

EDIT: damn spelling
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Mar 29, 2004 at 7:41 PM Post #24 of 62
Quote:

Originally posted by KPOT
I have modified my 4 etys!!! now my 4B etys are in 6 etys case!!!
BEST SOUND WITH COOL DESIGN!
Also i want to say that etymotic er-4 have VERY CHEAP CABLE. It is made of aluminum!!!
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(1$ - 1m). ER use very cheap capasitors and resistors.


Are you sure the cable is not tin or silver plated copper? I have never heard of aluminum wire being used in audio. It was used as home power wiring in the 70s, but the practice stopped because of potential fire hazards.
 
Mar 29, 2004 at 7:55 PM Post #25 of 62
Mar 29, 2004 at 8:32 PM Post #26 of 62
UPS! I'm sorry. I have changed er-4B sheme and shifter sheme to right one (you can see new shemes in my previous posts) . er-4b uses 220 nF capasitor and two 100 Ohm resistors. Conversion cable P -> S uses one 64 Ohm resistor on each channel
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Mar 29, 2004 at 9:27 PM Post #28 of 62
Quote:

Originally posted by KPOT
Skavoovie, this cable is too cheap. It isn't silver or gold plated, please trust me.


Looks like tinsel wire to me, as suggested by iamdone.
Quote:

From http://www.astronomysite.com/mapug/17/msg18033.htm
Mention was made of "tinsel wire" used. This stuff was commonly used on headsets, microphones, etc. many years ago. Basically it's one or more narrow flat strips of copper spiral-wrapped around a piece of cotton string to form a strand; multiple strands form one conductor or "wire", with insulation around each conductor and a jacket of some sort around all the conductors. Back then, small terminal lugs were used that had a pair of tiny "sawteeth" sticking up that would punch through the insulation and make contact with the conductor. Such things are very difficult to find these days, and would be useless in something like a telephone or computer cable connector.

Another old trick (when lugs weren't available) was to take a single strand from a stranded wire and wrap it tightly around the tinsel wire conductor. This was then heated with a soldering iron, and solder flowed onto the wrap. Yes, the string will probably get heated more than you like and some smoke will appear. Just get on with the job and don't take too long! The resultant wire end can then be crimped into a lug or (if not too large) soldered into a pin on a connector. At worst, you can solder a short wire between the wrapped end and a connector pin. As someone else (Paul Goelz?) said, soldering tinsel wire makes it rigid and fragile, so be sure that it doesn't have to flex (make sure it's inside the connector shell and provide proper strain relief). Tinsel wire is often used because of its light weight and flexibility. If the conductor problem is at the end where the cable connects to something else, weight usually isn't a factor on that end and you can even terminate the cable inside a small metal box, running regular telephone or computer cordage from the box to the eventual destination. It'll *look* hokey, but should work just as well as the original.

Ray Mote, K5FKT <rmote@rain.org> Oxnard, CA


High quality, stranded wire would work, but it looks like tinsel wire was chosen to maximize flexibility thus minimizing microphonics.
 
Mar 29, 2004 at 10:05 PM Post #29 of 62
Mar 29, 2004 at 10:13 PM Post #30 of 62
Couldn't it still be made of aluminium even though it's wrapped like tinsel wire?

EDIT: BTW, massively impressive mod you've done there KPOT. I also think the ER6 cases look beter than then ER4s (blue and red, come on) And you even changed the print, respect man!
 

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