[TigrisJK]

Wow. I haven't been on headfi regularly in a loooong time. Just printed a chamber from thingiverse by grandeswag (I'm sure people know these but link below anyway) to test against stock SR80s and my daily drivers with wood cups from @7keys that I've had for.... like, forever (I think I got them in 2014. I still love them. Thank you @7keys you have literally made my life infinitely better since 2014)

I've been printing a bunch just cause I have some spare SR80 drivers to play with, and I want to figure out what to do with them. Figured testing 3D printed cans might be worth a try.

Using woodfill PLA from Hatchbox for the prints, by the way.

With the print, I've tested a couple different infill settings and more seems to be better. Which makes sense, the density of material makes a difference. At 70% infill they're slightly airier and less resonant than stock.

I might push the infill higher but I honestly suspect switching plastics will have a greater effect on the sound. They're not very far off from stock, though, which makes them a *very* reasonable thing to do if you're building from scratch without spare SR80 parts like I have (I.... literally collect parts from broken headphones that friends donate cause .... they all know I'm a headphone addict).

Actual wood is, of course, infinitely better.

I'm going to keep playing with printing Grado parts, which I gather isn't a new thing around here anymore so I'm gonna go read people's threads and stuff and get some ideas.... I'm plotting out a new build, but I figured I'd post my findings from tonight. It's been ages since I was on headfi! Updates as I keep testing 3D printing solutions as I learn more from threads here.

 

[TigrisJK]

I got a little off the deep end. Prototyping flush fit cans for Grado 46mm drivers with gimbals.

Things got crazy.

 

[TigrisJK]

Made some modifications, the gimbals now fit with the rods perfectly (the rods self-tap into the gimbals with just a quick spin from a power drill) and I changed the internal dimensions of the chambers to be friction fit but not too tight, and put an inside collar so they can't go in any further than being flush with the edge of the can.

Just waiting for some MMCX connectors to arrive the mail to size the bottom hole for a detachable cable, then all set. If people are interested I'll share the thingiverse link then!

 

[Tofty]

Nice work.
Have you tried adjusting the depth of the earcup cavity and if so did you notice any trends in how it changed the sound?

 

[TigrisJK]

Nice work.
Have you tried adjusting the depth of the earcup cavity and if so did you notice any trends in how it changed the sound?

Thanks! I have but I didn't notice much difference there. I might play around with the diameter of the outside hole, cause I think that may change things more dramatically by "closing" the can more. I just saw your build, they look great!

 

[Tofty]

Thanks TigrisJK, I appreciate it.

Interesting , but I suppose that does make sense as there's nothing much to reflect the sound back at the ear. I would agree that "Choking" the outside hole would make more of a difference. Please let us know what you discover.

 

[TigrisJK]

Thanks TigrisJK, I appreciate it.

Interesting , but I suppose that does make sense as there's nothing much to reflect the sound back at the ear. I would agree that "Choking" the outside hole would make more of a difference. Please let us know what you discover.

I will! I'm probably going to play with materials a bit too. Been too busy to get around to it lately.

Though I did make some mods to my daily drivers. Put MMCX detachable cables on them. Those MMCX connectors were the tiniest solder joins I've ever ever ever done:

 

[TigrisJK]

Quick update, but not in a printing vein:

I still use a cable at my desk, but I added a couple TRN BT30s to the build for using with the phone wirelessly.

I'm using velcro adhesive pads on the front face of the TRNs (so they don't interfere with the charging case). I line the button up with the hex screw so squeezing the dongle to the can presses the button, which is very intuitive. When I don't want the button to be as easily pushed, I can move the dongle lower on the velcro and disable the button, which is super handy for when I don't want any pressure to accidentally activate the button (like when I'm lying in bed).