[Shizdan]

On another forum somebody also recommended me these... they were originally $349 But now for $150 shipped, He also recommended me a 10" Dayton sub

Heres the Thread, It isn't to long at all

 

[obobskivich]

the KRK's have never really done it for me, and I dont like the measurements he's showing either

also, "absolute best" is fluff imho, audio is very subjective, and I wouldn't be taking someone's claim of something being "the best, period", as an absolute, maybe he works for them? (who knows)

honestly, I wouldn't go with studio monitors, at least not for casual listening to music, the NAD setup is going to give you a more, music-y (lulz) setup, its built with listening to music with good quality mind, vs cheapie studio monitors, built with the goal of being as flat as possible in mind (then again, if you like ruler flat, you might consider studio monitors)

also, behringer is usually associated with, at least in my personal experience, low cost junk (and I've met a number of engineers who think the same way, in my experience, their stuff tends to break sooner or perform less than equivalent equipment, although that isn't to say I'm just particularly unlucky with the brand (given that I could say the same about Sony, Hewlett-Packard, and Apple, and there are a lot of positive things generally said about those three))

as to your question in that thread "is this for one speaker or two", as I'm reading it, its $150 per each, so $300 for the pair

if you want actives, consider AudioEngine maybe?

 

[Shizdan]

What do you think I should go with for $400?

 

[Shike]

I looked at the thread and speakers he linked to. One, they're extremely expensive. Two, they really suck for the price.

Seriously, when will speaker manufacturers learn kevlar is a horrible speaker material? Even with a glass composite it just doesn't work. They tend to break-up in the midrange and really mess the frequency response up.

As for the Dayton 10", it's really a matter of opinion. I currently own a Dayton sub myself which fits best in my price bracket, but in terms of bang for the buck I think the Energy is better. They both extend to similar lows while the Energy uses a better amp and IMO a slightly better built driver at this price range.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shizdan What do you think I should go with for $400?

We've all told you numerous times the NAD setup. Unfortunately, the NHTs you were looking at already sold. So, if you can find another set of older NHTs or the like great. Otherwise the NAD and Energies as suggested.

If you don't like this answer, then just say so. Seriously . . .

 

[Shizdan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shike /img/forum/go_quote.gif I looked at the thread and speakers he linked to. One, they're extremely expensive. Two, they really suck for the price. Seriously, when will speaker manufacturers learn kevlar is a horrible speaker material? Even with a glass composite it just doesn't work. They tend to break-up in the midrange and really mess the frequency response up. As for the Dayton 10", it's really a matter of opinion. I currently own a Dayton sub myself which fits best in my price bracket, but in terms of bang for the buck I think the Energy is better. They both extend to similar lows while the Energy uses a better amp and IMO a slightly better built driver at this price range. We've all told you numerous times the NAD setup. Unfortunately, the NHTs you were looking at already sold. So, if you can find another set of older NHTs or the like great. Otherwise the NAD and Energies as suggested. If you don't like this answer, then just say so. Seriously . . .

No i love it, it feels like more "bang for the buck". The other guy just confused the hell out of me and his setup would end up costing me like $500 for everything including cables, and it seemed like he was setting me up for like music production...?

This was his system

-2x KRK RP5G2 Rokit G2
$300 Shipped For both

Either
-Dayton SUB-100 HT Series 10" 125 Watt Powered Subwoofer For $146 Shipped
or
-Dayton SUB-80 8" HT Series 80 Watt Powered Subwoofer For $109 Shipped

-2x 1/8" stereo to RCA for $36
-2x RCA male to RCA male mono cables
-2x RCA female to female coupler

 

[Yukon Trooper]

50% gaming? 5.1. You'd be crazy to get 2.1.

 

[Shike]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shizdan /img/forum/go_quote.gif No i love it, it feels like more "bang for the buck". The other guy just confused the hell out of me and his setup would end up costing me like $500 for everything including cables, and it seemed like he was setting me up for like music production...? This was his system -2x KRK RP5G2 Rokit G2 $300 Shipped For both Either -Dayton SUB-100 HT Series 10" 125 Watt Powered Subwoofer For $146 Shipped or -Dayton SUB-80 8" HT Series 80 Watt Powered Subwoofer For $109 Shipped -2x 1/8" stereo to RCA for $36 -2x RCA male to RCA male mono cables -2x RCA female to female coupler

You'd also need a $80+ crossover for the sub to even be used . . .

 

[Shizdan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shike /img/forum/go_quote.gif You'd also need a $80+ crossover for the sub to even be used . . .

The prelude has bass management

 

[Shike]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shizdan /img/forum/go_quote.gif The prelude has bass management

That doesn't perform well thanks to driver instabilities. Last I knew it required 5.1 or 7.1 to be enabled and tweaks to get it "kinda sorta" working any other way; not to mention the xover management is horrendous. It's sad when "2.1" doesn't even mean "2.1" to them -_-'

I already told you, I have the same card.

 

[obobskivich]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Shike /img/forum/go_quote.gif That doesn't perform well thanks to driver instabilities. Last I knew it required 5.1 or 7.1 to be enabled and tweaks to get it "kinda sorta" working any other way; not to mention the xover management is horrendous. It's sad when "2.1" doesn't even mean "2.1" to them -_-' I already told you, I have the same card.

x2 on everything you've said

get the NAD and get the NHT's or something similar

and lol @ the rant on kevlar (i agree, just lol at it, how do you feel about B&W's 802 though?)

 

[jterp7]

shizdan- I could have sworn I posted on another thread about this last week and you decided on the z5500s...should have bought it then..now you are doomed to spend more and more lol

I can only recommend what I've heard/own so see sig lol..the Audioengine5s are great unless you plan on going the receiver and passive speaker route and that gets expensive quick. One last thing, don't cheapen out on the sub and get some 100-150 dollar joke of a sub.

 

[Shizdan]

Ok Here's all of it so far
-Nad 0320 For $130 Shipped
-Energy - ESW-8 - Powered Subwoofer Originally $270 now $99
-Energy - C-50 - Bookshelf Speakers Originally $199 now $99
-So Both of those Shipped comes to $240 Shipped
-All for $370 Shipped ....but i also need Cables

Now What about the cables?....I have none and have a few questions
1 - Could i hook up the 3020 through optical and keep analog for my headphones?
2 - The RCA adapter thing...could i get one off ebay or something for cheaper since they charge alot extra to ship it?

 

[Maxvla]

That vintage (1978) receiver doesn't have optical

You'd need a 1/8" Mini to RCA, which just about every cable company makes, or you could make your own.

Looking at that you could use the NAD as a preamp for your headphone amp and continue the chain like that. How about them horizontal jacks! Haven't seen those in a while.

 

[Shizdan]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Maxvla /img/forum/go_quote.gif That vintage (1978) receiver doesn't have optical You'd need a 1/8" Mini to RCA, which just about every cable company makes, or you could make your own.

Well could i run my headphone amp off that with no SQ loss and hook the vintage by analog?

 

[Maxvla]

Yeah I re-edited my post to say you can run the signal from your computer to the NAD then plug your headphone amp into the pre-amp jacks. It would run through the internal circuitry of the NAD, but if you only have 1 output for your computer doing this would likely be better than using a splitter. Or depending on how nice of a headphone amp you have, if it has pass through ports you could reverse it having the NAD feed from the headphone amp, this would give you best quality from the headphone amp, but will of course only work if you have pass throughs.