$1000 2ch speaker setup help
Jul 26, 2005 at 12:30 AM Post #31 of 47
Grado....Grado......hmmm how about totem? The totem rainmaker should fit into the budget, no? i heard the totem arro and sttaf. Both were highly forward, fast and very quick on the attack. Could be a little harsh at times ( grado anyone? ), so yea, they could fit the bill.
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 12:43 AM Post #32 of 47
not to be mean here, but all yous who say that abbys and set stuff has a narrow soundstage or weird sound don't know what the crap you are talking about. the technology and musical choice that goes into those amps and speakers is beyond your wildest imagination. in fact, they have the biggest soundstage of any type of speaker in my opinion becaue it is a true point source. the sound expands and leaps out of the speaker. well amped and acoustically treated, they can be far louder and more accurate than crossover designs. not to mention the amount of coherency involved. look at the writeup for the recent pacific northwest audio society meeting. actual real world *in room* frequency response was measured and it was very very flat down low and up high, as well as in the middle. there was no high volume breakup neither. also, try readin the freakin reviews and listen to the stuff before you blanket it all. set stuff as well as high efficiency speakers have probably the biggest variance in tonal and soundstage presentation from system to system of any type of speaker that i have ever heard. most of the reason lies in the fact that the electronic signal actually gets converted into an acoustical signal instead of having the life filtered out of it, so you have something to tune and something to deal with instead of a skeleton. hence,personal preferences reign supreme.

I love all the junk posted about set and high efficiency stuff sometimes. Triple the duty? bull. more like a 30 times more effortless sounding. so misinformed.

guess where the soundstage is in your b&ws, meridians, etc?? it got left behind in the crossover!

i love the paradigm active 20s, by the way, as well as most well implimented bookshelf types (with only a single capacitor (hopefully not electrolytic) for a crossover, usually), especially active studio monitors, etc. they are great in the bass frequently and are very close to a point source, so soundstage and coherency beats the sibling models with all the extra drivers. you will also find lots more music coming through without having to amplify the crap out of everything. the paradigms active 20s in specific do not quite have the forwardness and aggressiveness of the grados though. though, in my opinion, they are very very good. (even better than the 40s, except in the bass)

again, the abbys (normal version) (with a sub, of course) and grados are damn close companions musically. definitely worth a try.

if you don;t go with the abbys or something similar, try the tannoy system 600 studio monitors with the sonic impact tripath amp. the whole system will cost under 600 bucks, and depening on the room, they will give an awesome sound (though not as much like the grados as the abbys would be).

also, try calling the companies you find yourself even remotely attracted to. you will be able to get an idea of their expertise and musical ability (not to mention their tendency to customer service) pretty quickly.

and of course, i have to echo the comments made earlier - properly setup demos are a must in order to outright buy a pair of speakers. our ears are all very different from each others.

im outa this nasty thread for good.

Clark
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 12:55 AM Post #33 of 47
I think that now I maybe do want to get a bookshelf and a sub setup, because of my small room. aprox. guess 12x12x8. I was thinking about the Onix RS150 used for $200 and the Onix ULW-10 subwoofer for $400.

I was kind of thinking about getting the t-amp but Im not sure if it will be able to power the RS150s very well.
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 1:00 AM Post #34 of 47
Quote:

Originally Posted by blumenco
I love all the junk posted about set and high efficiency stuff sometimes. Triple the duty? bull. more like a 30 times more effortless sounding. so misinformed.





I am shooting bull? A single driver has to reproduce:

1) trebble
2) midrange
3) bass

3 tasks that are usually divided amongst 2 or 3 drivers. If this is not trippling a single driver's duty then what is?


A single driver crossover less design cannot possibly have any appreciable bass, simply because the woofer is too small.
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 1:04 AM Post #35 of 47
Fine, I'll do this from top to bottom
rolleyes.gif


Quote:

not to be mean here, but all yous who say that abbys and set stuff has a narrow soundstage or weird sound don't know what the crap you are talking about.


Sure, you're not attempting iritability -- you're attempting stupidity
rolleyes.gif
I suppose you're to tell me that I have no idea what I'm talking about simply because I disagree with some of the design philosophies of crossoverless speaker manufactures?

Quote:

well amped and acoustically treated, they can be far louder and more accurate than crossover designs.


Out of the question. If you were at all the least bit considerate, you'd have taken the time to read other posts in this thread. If you had, you'd have found out that mmmmcheese is a teenager and also wants these speakers to be able to survive in his room and in college dormitories. ANYTHING sounds good when the room is acoustically-treated ... but for a long period of time, these speakers will suffer from very piss-poor acoustics.

Quote:

also, try readin the freakin reviews and listen to the stuff before you blanket it all.


I've heard Cain & Cain Abbys. I've heard Omega Loudspeakers. They are good at what their drivers are meant to do: play simple music. They are brilliant at playing acoustic guitars, more simplistic classical pieces, and acoustical rock. They are NOT meant to play complex jazz fusion pieces or 70s progressive rock. They simply get kicked in the balls once extreme frequencies play all at the same time, especially when those sounds require immense amounts of detail. This isn't just opinion either -- physics can tell us that these are true statements. View any sort of measurements of Fostex-driven speakers, and you'll see for yourself. They can get quite impressive, but to handle Grado sound, and to get enormous amounts of bass, one should not turn to crossoverless systems. You are merely a fanboy of the company because you have slaved your hard-earned cash to the company. That's nice and all, and it's completely your decision, but you should know that people have different reasons for listening to speakers than you, and they have different opinions as well. It is not meant to be an insult or a personal attack if we simply have to tell you to shut your biased mouth!

Quote:

guess where the soundstage is in your b&ws, meridians, etc?? it got left behind in the crossover!


Most will disagree with you here. Due to the nature of the lack of extent the Fostex drivers have, they have an "up front" sound stage, meaning that they place you intimately-close to the performer. Most attribute soundstage to a quality that crossover speakers possess, since they are normally related to detail, air, and resolution as well. In fact, those three things have to work to give a better soundstage, since really soundstage is just a recording possession, and can only be the best if the speaker is best at translating the actual media. And on these events, the Fostex drivers score relatively low to similarly-costing speakers with crossover designs. Because of the inclusion of multiple drivers, more air is given to the sound right from the start. I'd rather have a speaker take great advantage of what it has, even if it isn't given the full picture, than have a speaker that is given a lot but can't do nearly as much with it.

Quote:

again, the abbys (normal version) (with a sub, of course) and grados are damn close companions musically. definitely worth a try.


Most audiophiles will tell you that it's simply better to buy a speaker that can handle the lower frequencies. Subwoofers normally make the sound worse and less pure, than do any good. You have to pay a lot of money to get a real quality subwoofer. In other words, a subwoofer matching a pair of even 750 dollar speakers will sound dismal.

Oh yeah, and don't be so contradictory! If you're going to recommend listening to speakers yourself, then DON'T be such a fanboy for one particular speaker and preach to us all incorrect information on why they for some reason are the best on the planet.
rolleyes.gif


Trust me, mmmmcheese, for your situation, you will want to go with a crossover-possessing speaker because they normally work better under stressful acoustic situations. Again, go listen to some! That will be the only way to be completely satisfied.

You could also, again, buy from places with trial periods as a last resort -- if so, find which speaker sites grab you the most with these offered trial periods and maybe we can help you out with a "first selection" and you can go from there...
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 1:06 AM Post #36 of 47
Quote:

Originally Posted by mmmmcheese
I think that now I maybe do want to get a bookshelf and a sub setup, because of my small room. aprox. guess 12x12x8. I was thinking about the Onix RS150 used for $200 and the Onix ULW-10 subwoofer for $400.

I was kind of thinking about getting the t-amp but Im not sure if it will be able to power the RS150s very well.



And again, Onix is a very good choice for value speakers, but I highly suggest getting tower speakers instead. The bass will be much more controlled and sound much more musical. Subwoofers get very expensive before they start getting good, unfortunately. You have to spend much more to get a good subwoofer than you would to get a good speaker.

PS: I agree, don't get the T-Amp
wink.gif
biggrin.gif
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 1:16 AM Post #37 of 47
Quote:

Originally Posted by mmmmcheese
I was kind of thinking about getting the t-amp but Im not sure if it will be able to power the RS150s very well.


While the t-amp might be a bargain on its own, looking for a setup around the $1K dollar I think its a bad choice of an amp. This just because I believe in some sort of reasonable balance in the system in terms of $$$. Doesn't make sense to be willing to buy a Ferrari and start with $50 tires on it just planning to upgrade later. That's an exageration of course on both ends, but just to make my point.

Whatever speakers you go for, let's say $600 ones, you can get a powerful and solid enough amp for $400, whether new or used. Instead of $600 (speakers) vs. $400 (amp) you could make that $700 vs. $300, maybe stretch that ratio even a bit further. But $960 vs. $40, that's way too much, doesn't work for me.
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 1:16 AM Post #38 of 47
Quote:

Originally Posted by Aman
And again, Onix is a very good choice for value speakers, but I highly suggest getting tower speakers instead. The bass will be much more controlled and sound much more musical. Subwoofers get very expensive before they start getting good, unfortunately. You have to spend much more to get a good subwoofer than you would to get a good speaker.

PS: I agree, don't get the T-Amp
wink.gif
biggrin.gif




Good advice on towers. Bookshelf speakers will sound strained when you play at relatively loud volumes. For a dorm room, small towers will do nicely. And the T-amp, don't destroy your speakers with that T-amp.
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 2:32 AM Post #39 of 47
Do you guys have any recomendations on amps? I could possibly get my dad's GAS son of ampzilla amp reapaired. He said that it was kind of bright though.

What brands would be good to look at.
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 2:44 AM Post #40 of 47
Quote:

Originally Posted by ampgalore
Good advice on towers. Bookshelf speakers will sound strained when you play at relatively loud volumes. For a dorm room, small towers will do nicely. And the T-amp, don't destroy your speakers with that T-amp.


I use the Ref.3s and Ref. 1s. While the Ref.3s are in a different league, the Ref.1s are more than capable for a small room at very loud volumes. I have been audtioning many speakers in the past few months, including many in the $10K- 20K range and haven't found any that make me want to ditch the Ref. 3s. I'm waiting on their Strata Grandes to pair with my Classe system.

If you are looking for an amp, I again, strongly recommend looking at the SP3/Ref.1 combo. I was quite shocked when I received the combo. The build quality on the amp is spectacular and it sounds fantastic. I haven't seen any audiophile combo of that quality anywhere near that price. Keep in mind, they were selling the Ref.1s at full price at $1500 and the amp at $999. Both for $999 is nuts IMO. I bought a few sets for the house.

Personally, after living with the Ref. 3s for a few months, I never think of them as value speakers. They are great speakers. I love running them in my EAR864/Meridian G57/Meridan G08/Velodyne DD15 system. I really think the Ref. 1s will be more than enough for a dorm room. With their 30 day return poilcy, I would at least check it out.
 
Jul 26, 2005 at 2:59 AM Post #41 of 47
Quote:

Originally Posted by mmmmcheese
Do you guys have any recomendations on amps? I could possibly get my dad's GAS son of ampzilla amp reapaired. He said that it was kind of bright though.

What brands would be good to look at.




A dedicated amp/preamp solution would be the best. $300 wont get you a decent new amp, but it will get you a decent used amp. I think your best bet would be to fix up that old ampzilla amp of your dad's.

The amp section of most receivers are not as powerful as the dedicated amps. At $300 for a receiver, I think you are stretching it.

Even an integrated amp's amp section is not as good as a dedicated amp.


I have personally heard the difference between an integrated an a dedicated amp. The bass from the dedicated amp is just amazing. It made me realize what I was missing when I had my speakers hooked up to the integrated. Good bass reproduction requires lots of power.
 
Jul 27, 2005 at 12:07 AM Post #42 of 47
has anyone even suggested to mmcheese to make his own stuff? i am a college student and that is precisely what i did for the whole system, minus the cabinets for the speakers. terry was very nice to make me those, and i thought he did a bang up job. most commercial products just don't have the bang for the buck that mmcheese is going to want, especially to acheive the resolution of grado headphones (or any nice headphones for that matter). also, in a dorm room (small place), i still have to stick by my tannoy system 600 speaker choice and t-amp. i installed a system like this for a freind (for studio monitoring on a budget) and it is killer. most normal commercial hifi speakers are going to have too much highs for a small, improperly damped college dorm room. i have been there, and it is no fun. it will take notch filters, high capacitance cables, or foam on the walls to tame that down.

BTW, I heard the fostex room at CES this year, and there was nutso horn bass from two stereo drivers ff-165k in bk-16 cabinet, with super tweeters rolled in at 15000hz. so they did not have the imaging of true full rangers, but man the bass was great. i thought i was hearing the best subwoofer i had ever heard. there was no subwoofer though. abbys don't do that kindof bass because they are voigt pipe type transmission line, not horns. course, in the fostex room, there was alot of solid state power being dissipated within the tungsten cables on the way to the drivers (to help tune the qts).

the speakers being reccomended to this fellow on this forum are all very good, but they are not by any means the best he can do within his budget and time (i am assuming the time frame is when school starts in a month?).

the thing about amps and stuff is that all that reigns supreme is production of real music that the user recognizes as such. i think that alot of people around here throw only money at the problem and miss the mark entirely. efficiency and real world synergy reign supreme. not dollars. the t-amp puts out 5.5 very nice sounding watts. it looks dinky, but that thing means business. i have powered paradigm mini monitors to huge volume with it. course, you should not pair it with theils, but something like the tannoys (at $250 each) and at 90 db will work quite well, and will get way more than loud enough for the size of his room. also, studio products in general give a vastly greater bang for the buck than traditional hi fi products. studio engineers in general are not idiots with their money like some folks that peruse these forums. course, they are hard to audition at a dealer. one must buy them and return them if you hate them (which probably won't happen with the tannoys). abbys at 95 db will be even better, even some large, fe-208 based back loaded horns at around 100db will be even better. b ut neither of the last two choices will fit into a small room, except in mine, where i don't give a crap about anything BUT the stereo system. i have found that getting really nice sound out of speakers it is all about not stressing your amplifiers in order to get music out. i have to say that people who think that single drivers can't do bass simply have not heard a well implimented system. now, can this fellow's system be that well implimented for under 1000 dollars? that will depend on HIS level of creativity. there will be the creativity in designing a subwoofer (try a 10 inch sub resonant design (tinyest cabinet you can get away with, bringing the resonant frequency of the cabinet ABOVE that of the crossover frequency - hence, bass with no resonance and great transient response. pair this with a nice 100 or 200 watt subwoofer amplifier) or you could take the months is takes to design a back loaded horn to get good bass out of a single driver (or buy a bk-16 kit from madisound). or you could be a slave to the limitations of the normal stereo market. go ahead, build your own cabinet, buy the drivers, wire it yourself. it is not as hard as you think and you will have far more ownership over everything when it is done. upgraditis tends to not be as costly as well when you learn how to REALLY tweak a system with a few bucks in capacitors, resistors, inductors, and wire instead of buying the usually far less effective tweak flavor of the week, like buying 5000 dollar ebony tuning blocks, or some products from Golden Sound (like the ultra tweeter that goes up to 1ghz, woowee!). mmcheese's level of creativity will determine whether or not he gets a system that sounds ok, and is passable, lasts him through college, and gets him the girls (or guys) or one that makes him and his freinds crap their pants on the first few notes every time he comes home from class to get stoned and listen to music. i must say that concentration on strickly widely available commercial products just won't get you there. this tacktic obviously has not worked for alot of people on this forum.

i have to thoroughly disagree with the towers thing though. i have never heard a single amped (meaning not bi or tri amped) tower sound very coherent. bi or tri amping would be out of the budget. and the crossover steals too much musical energy and electrical energy to even allow cheap but good amplification. there are also usually bad phase issues. bookshelves also won't visually dominate like some ugly status symbol towers, also you can spend less on amps, which would loose their pace trying to keep up with a complicated crossover (as opposed to a smaller one in a bookshelf) leaving more money for cds.

bigger just aint better, guys and gals.




I do have to say though, that some of y'all have obviously been lied to and duped by marketers your whole life. it is very apparent from the acoustic and electronic theory that you present in discussions. it aint from years of studying acoustic and electronic theory, or even from studying music itself. it is from being only a consumer and a product researcher. there is nothing wrong with being a consumer, as long as you understand that that is as far as your hobby goes. you opinions are appreciated, but leave them there. don't specifically personally attack people, especially when your science and art are out of tune. go ahead, talk on the consumer level, but don't give me any funny smelling science for a second. i can sniff right through it. triple the duty? do you know how many octaves are in the audible spectrum? do you think that most multi-driver designs are evenly distributed like that? sure, some of them are, but there is tons of variance. the duty that single drivers don't have is that of trying to power a taxing crossover. there is tons of power and music lost in the passive crossovers in most consumer stuff. not to say that there cannot be great passive crossovers, but 99 percent of companies don't take the time to tune them very well, or use truely great electronic components and you end up with a musical and phase coherency mess. full range just means a really good and very extended midrange driver that also happens to do good highs and lows. and properly amplified, they do NOT break up under complex material. the 166esrs i have huge instrument separation, and i sometimes listen to prodigy, as well as organ, and yes, even classical chamber music. given proper electronic resolution, i beleive they are far superior detail wise to any multi driver system (except front loaded horns). full rangers are usually far more technologically and musically advanced than multidriver systems as materials quality is a must. huge magnets of exotic high flux density material, a tiny gap between voice coil and magnet, and low cone weight are a must. these are all very hard things to acheive at the low price demanded by huge speaker companies. fostex, however, does a very good job. there is a reason why single drivers and tubes are poopooed by most companies - most companies are too lazy to buy expensive drivers and components that eat away their profit margin. it is as simple as that. they would rather go with readily available things that take little to no engineering knowledge to make and even less genuine love for their products or their customers. but that is the business world, which is quite separate from the real pursuit of seeing god through your speakers. that is a personal pursuit that few have the courage to undertake on thier own, with their own ears and their own intuition.

look, sorry to confuse, insult, etc. i am not contradicting myself. i am talking at another level than some of y'all are not able to comprehend at. unfortunately, i know how patronizing that must sound. oh well. its kinda the truth though. i happily read your opinions, and i learn from them, and i tip my hat to those who read and learn from mine. i would like to point out, however, that i design and build audio devices and systems from the ground up of all types and applications. i frequently find myself on a daily basis tuning hifi systems by ear, by soldering iron, by tacky glue, and felt. etc. taking apart and repairing (and sometimes hotrodding) everything from cell phones to blenders. I have helped maintain pipe organs, repaired a few electronic organs, PAed rock groups, big bands etc. the list goes on and on. i am not saying that i am a better individual than any of you here. it is just that musical pursuits are my life in its entirety. so I take a little bit of ownership, thats all. i think that occationally, i deserve to.


concepts beyond the straight and narrow just won't work with people who will be checkbook audiophiles their whole lives. the only audio system that i advocate is the type that the owner puts real input into other than from a simple checking account. that means that i advocate many technologies, as long as they are well implimented by their owners. hence, i am not just a single driver nut. i have encouraged many of my freinds to strike out and find their own course in their audio lives and that they reach their OWN great happiness and success. i have been happy to be the spark, but they were the ones who put in the effort, and i have found myself surprised with the creativity of most people, given the tools and motivation. what i preach is that of listening to all types of systems and appreciating all music in order to find your own niche. course i am going to support the niche that i have found for myself. I like what i do. doen't everyone? or maybe that is the problem. i respect alot of other types of speakers than single drivers. just not most monkey coffins (which 98 percent of the market consists of). i have been into this stuff since i was a small child, these listening processes are pretty well developed in me, and i am happy where i am now. so no more debating. i don't have to justify myself. I know who i am, and i found out who a few people on this forum are really made of - preconceived notions, gobs of cash, and some pretty crappy dogmatic advice. there are also alot of gracious, wonderful individuals, not that people fall into either category based on wether or not they agree with me, i just find that alot of people try to shut down conversation, discussion, and explaination, and turn it into argument. i find generalizations and lack of specificity to person or company (instead of quoting them directly, or taking things out of context) to be frequently less offensive, and sometimes far more communicative. oh well, it takes all types... and people are just going to do what they know best.


Clark
 
Jul 27, 2005 at 12:28 AM Post #43 of 47
though this is also out of context as well, what if you got a really good deal on a set of 10000 dollar tires for that ferarri for only 50 bucks. course, that is an exaggeration. i guess. i tend to look at things in terms of absolute performance rather than a grey area of price matching.

the t-amp only works extremely well with relatively high efficiency speakers. its even better with single driver speakers. it is what it was designed to do after all, to power sonic impact's cardboard speakers (which have servo type motors inducing sympathetic resonance in the cardboard as far as i know, but i could be wrong here.). below 87 db, there is noticable breakup and volume loss. it just cannot push the voltage for most demanding crossovers.

the SI-5 amp will tend to do the immediacy and dynamics thing incredibly well, but lacks the smoothness somewhat of the most refined tube amps (i think it is pretty darned smooth in general though) I find that really, as far as the efficiency is high enough, and the source good enough, the t-amp is just flat killer with almost any speaker. for some applications it is kindof hard to appreciably upgrade from. i think that its shear simplicity leads to that performance.

btw, how things been, dude?

Clark

Quote:

Originally Posted by rsaavedra
While the t-amp might be a bargain on its own, looking for a setup around the $1K dollar I think its a bad choice of an amp. This just because I believe in some sort of reasonable balance in the system in terms of $$$. Doesn't make sense to be willing to buy a Ferrari and start with $50 tires on it just planning to upgrade later. That's an exageration of course on both ends, but just to make my point.

Whatever speakers you go for, let's say $600 ones, you can get a powerful and solid enough amp for $400, whether new or used. Instead of $600 (speakers) vs. $400 (amp) you could make that $700 vs. $300, maybe stretch that ratio even a bit further. But $960 vs. $40, that's way too much, doesn't work for me.



 
Jul 27, 2005 at 12:58 AM Post #44 of 47
Everything has been great Clark, only I moved to Venezuela, and all my home theater and headphone rig (included my modded 3950) is dormant in a storage place in Pensacola, FL. In fact in the path of hurricanes!!! I have to ship all that here soon, hopefully before end of year.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blumenco
the t-amp only works extremely well with relatively high efficiency speakers.


That's part of my point. Many good and reasonably priced speakers in his price range won't be efficient enough for a synergistic setup with the t-amp, the setup would suffer from distortion or you would even risk damaging the speakers. Remember an underpowered amp can easily and certainly damage a speaker, specially the tweeters. To stretch the metaphore, it's like saying yes you got some $50 tires that behave like $1K tires, but in certain conditions blow up easily, which might make you loose your entire investment in the Ferrari. Not a good idea for me. But I'm known to be over cautious.

Imo choosing the t-amp makes it difficult to chose the speakers, and in the long run it won't work well with any low sensitivity speakers anyway. So it's not a universally flexible option as an amp, even though granted it is really very inexpensive, and it might sound very good when properly matched. But I think to get it properly and *safely* matched is more trouble and risk than just spending some more $$$ on another amp that could work rather well and safely on pretty much any speaker you throw at it. The rule of spending some balanced ratios between speakers and amps prevails for me.
 
Jul 27, 2005 at 11:12 PM Post #45 of 47
I am using the teac to power my speakers. It is based on a Tripath chip but is alot more powerful than the si-amp.(35 watts vs 5, though I amnot sure about "real world" specs)

The teac might be a more versatile "cheap" solution at $100.

Not sure if it will sufficiently power a pair of floorstanders though as I use it solely on my axiom bookshelves.
 

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