The Bravo V2 is an attractive and inexpensive "pseudo-tube/hybrid" amp that is easily accessible to beginner DIYers if modifications are desired (which they definitely are as I will expand on later).
I'll review both the stock unit as well as modified amp although the star rating is for the stock unit. The modded unit would be a 3.5 - 4 star rating.
Build/Design
The V2 is a small desktop amp (8 x 8 x 3.5 cm approximately) with exposed sides and a clear plexiglass top and bottom plate. It is very attractive and easy to access for mods, but that's where the build/design strengths end. The PCB is very cheap and the stock components are very cheap. For example, the amp is powered by 24V but the power cap is only rated at 25V, leaving little room for overvoltage protection. Replacing this cap with a 35V cap is good preventative measure. The is also a sound popping sound upon power ON, which can be fixed with an induction coil and relocation of the switch; I'm no electrical engineer, but this is bad circuit design I would think.
The blue LED is obnoxious in my opinion and is an eye-sore. You can either short it to turn it off or replace it with another LED of your choice.
Also, this is what many consider a pseudo-tube amp since the tube itself does very little of the amplification and is largely used a pre-amp stage for coloring/warming the sound. Other hybrids utilize the tubes a bit more and pure tube amps run crazy high voltages.
Sound
The stock unit does not sound very good. The highs are muffled and there is noticeable distortion. Bass heavy songs sounded OK, but everything else sounded muffled and harsh with none of the warmth you might expect from the tube preamp. Replacing the stock tube will help the sound, but the real fix is to replaced the stock IRF630 voltage regulator with a IRF510 or IRL530 regulator instead. This extends the highs and also seemed to reduce distortion. The heat generated form these upgraded regulators however is higher, so it may be wise to upgrade the LM317's to LM317A's as a preventative measure. After switching to an IRF510, the heat sink measured 70-75C after 30 minutes of operation (I used an IR laser thermometer). Replacing the output caps with 25V/2200uF caps are said o improve the lower frequencies, but that's debatable depending on who you ask.
Value
At under 70USD, this is a great way to get your feet wet when it comes to DIY audio devices. If however, you want bargain sound under 100USD without doing any mods, go with a solid state amp like the Schiit Magni or a FiiO E-Series amp.
In closing, I think this is a nice introductory amp although the sound quality was never stellar even with a full suite of modifications. As I mentioned earlier, this is a great DIYer's amp although the cheap PCB is terrible for desoldering. It would be great if this amp was offered as a kit for home assembly (that way, you only need to solder once and include any upgraded components the first time around), which would further drive down cost.