Thanks guys. Nullstring I'll try a different PC tonight. I'm very new to this and don't know if I'm really setting up my "system" right. I found Analog Devices software on my PC called SoundMAX. I never noticed it before, but I've never really looked. Anyway, I noticed that it's Master Volume...

Thanks for your reply TomB. The grounding is solid. I will try to get some pics by tomorrow, maybe tonight.

I have what I think is a properly assembled Bantam DAC with upgrade PS filter cap. It is extremely noisy though. Is this a sign of a build error or is this common with USB powered DACs? My PC seems fine and recognized it correctly. I've played it for a couple hours but the noise is bad. The...

Quote: Originally Posted by regal How do you like the copper AmpOhm's ? I just ordered a pair. . I'll let you know. I haven't played music through this puppy yet.

OK, I'm all done....at least for now. Everything checks out and the Bantam DAC fit nicely in the back with some sweet AmpOhm Copper Foil/PIO caps. Hopefully I can start burn-in tomorrow. One thing I can't figure out is why access to the B+ trimmer is needed? Why drill the hole to adjust B+?

Got it! The ZN Mcap was damaged/shorted out. I removed that and everything was pretty much good. Unfortunately that leaves me with crappy Solens because I can't get anything else to fit. The Auricap leads are too fat for the pcb holes. How do the Wima's sound compared to Solens? Should I just...

No dice. I've just replaced Q1 and Q2 and the results remain unchanged. Voltage measured across R2 is 300mV, across R3 is 330mV. I believe it should be 220mV and 230mV or so.

I've taken some more measurements: Pin1 = 36V Pin6 = 16V Tail current is set and stable. The Rp is 18K as required. What's the next step? New BC560C transistors??

Hey guys. I figured out the problem. I had the R10's installed on the R12 pads and visaversa! Oooops.. That's all fixed up now and the buffers are set correctly. Unfortunately I'm on to the next problem. The difference between TB+L and TPL is about 19V. However the TB+R and TPR is WAY off...

I've started the intial setup procedure. The PS is fine. I've moved on and jumpered J1 and J2. Unfortunately I can't set the Buffers. I'm aiming for 220mV across R10L and R10R, but the lowest I get is 280mV. At start up they measured around 450mV... Any idea's what to check? TIA!!

Me again. I noticed the supplied RCA jacks are not the insulated type so they will be grounded at the rear panel. Is there still a need to run a ground from the RCAs to the ground lug on the input terminal strip, or can I just run the L and R channel leads up to the input terminal strip? And...

Thanks for your input pixeljedi. I think I'll do it the standard way. Then figure out a way to mount the Bantam dac or skip it. I'd rather have a 24bit dac anyway.

Unlike the suggested layout from the Soha II webpage, I think I'm going to mount the toroidal PT closer to the PCB so the Ac inlet and switch can mount on the far side of the rear panel - away from the audio inputs. This also make more room for the Bantam DAC Does anyone think the Avel toroid...

I'm back... Thanks for your help guys. I got the upgraded Neutrik headphone jack and I'm trying to get the front panel layed out right for it. It looks to me like the 3-pin connector I soldered onto the board there will be in the way. I assume I can remove that and then wire the Neutrik...

Thanks kjetinho. OK, I'll skip the LED bling. Does anyone have a pic of how they layed out the rear panel when including a Bantam DAC? The recommended placement of the toroidal requires the AC inlet to be in the middle of the panel. My worry is that this will be too close to the DAC and...

A couple more newb questions: What's the point of those 3 LEDs? I found a top panel and front panel drilling template but nothing for the rear panel. Do we just "freestyle" the rear panel? TIA!

Hey guys I'm just getting started on my build. Quick question: do the BD139 or other PS regulators need heatsink paste applied or will it be OK dry? TIA!

The 6G6 output tubes are cathode biased. I used carbon-film resistors, bypassed with Nichicon Muse KZ caps. Each 6SN7 triode has a CCS load and is biased by a red LED. I don't have a schematic yet because I don't have software to produce one. I suppose I could draw it up.

Here's my first start to finish DIY "design". Not even burned in yet, but no problems at first start up and the sound is very nice. It's a SE 6G6 output tube with a CCS loaded 6SN7 input/preamp tube. Using killer AmpOhm Polyester (Mylar) in Oil/ Aluminium Foil coupling caps (a poor...

Quote: Originally Posted by Jon L That is somewhat surprising about Clarity caps. Mundorfs are kind of pricey, and these AmpOhm tin foil PIO caps are cheaper and at least as good so far, though much larger than Mundorf (see pic). Thetubestore is the distributor, but they are often...

Thank you my friend!! I was scared to "force" it so thanks for confirming that the pads rotate.

I just unpacked my new D2000's and I'm convinced Denon assembled them wrong. The leather pads are in such a way that the oval ear opening is horizontal to the ground, NOT vertical like the shape/direction of my ears.... The fattest part of the pads are down at my earlobes, NOT at the rear of my...

Has anyone tried to build a DIY version of the Decware MLB amp "my little buddy"? I'm curious how it would sound compared to the MJ OTL diy amp. Mostly I'd love to know if transformer output is better than huge electrolytics (bypassed). This is what I have now and frankly I'm not overly...

Yep, and thanks skyline889. I just was too excited to punch the holes in the cover once I finished it! I'll try to get that done this weekend. Also I'm playing around a little with bypass caps on the PS and output caps so no need for the cover yet. I have some Solens I'm going to try.