N There were options for a bit there to select what type of mesh you wanted. Solid, default (the picture that RestoredSparda posted), and the radial mesh. So you just got one that had the radial mesh installed.

Great to see that you’re back Glenn!

A used Bottlehead Crack (with the speed ball mod) will probably do the trick. Also, have you tried the Auteur pads with it?

Thank you for the smooth and fast transaction. Enjoy the headphones!

Great communication, fast shipping and easy transaction. Thank you for the great packaging. Tube came in and sounds fantastic!

Those are exactly the ones I purchased. Good sounding tubes. I can't say much about tube longevity as I purchased them about 2 months ago but crossing my fingers they last for a good while.

The TAD EL34 Red Base are really nice sounding. NOS Mullard EL34s extends lower and renders lower details better but the price of the TADs is much easier on the wallet. I keep the TADs in most of the day and pop in the Mullards on the weekends.

Bought these a week ago, put them on and didn’t meld well with my system. I’m the original owner so if you have any issues with them we can arrange a return for a replacement. Selling these for $700 shipped. Taking PayPal G&S. Thanks for looking.

You don't need expensive tubes at all. I bought a pair of Tube Amp Doctors Red Base EL34s and their GZ34 rectifier. I'm using two Tung-Sol 6SL7s but the JJ 6SL7s sound great as well. Also, if going by how well this amp pairs with the Atrium Open I have feeling you won't be disappointed. Edit...

Completed the build about 2 weeks ago and finally put it through its paces. After about 100+ hours of running the amp I have to say that it's beautiful sounding. It saved my ZMF Atrium from going on the chopping block and being sold. Great synergy there. It also pairs very well with the Verite...

@L0rdGwyn Have a question for you. Would you be able to use 6C8G tubes in this amp with the right adapter? Looks to be similar to a 6SL7 just with half the gain. Thanks!

If I could kiss those eyes @L0rdGwyn . That did the trick. Now to chase down the channel imbalance issue when I flip the impedance switch.

Here you go:

Sure can and thanks for helping. Let me know if you need a close up or different angle.

@L0rdGwyn Got to the last step on testing our voltages. I’m not getting any voltage from the TP13 and TP5/TP6. I see that the rectifier, power tubes, and driver tubes do light up. What should I be looking for troubleshooting? Edit - More measurements: A/C test: TP7 and TP8 = 6.77v with both...