[goldwerger]

My favorite so far is definitely the 6SU7GTY + EL37

mine too! (currently with GZ34 black base)

will be getting two pair types of EL38 (differetn getters) and will try these soon...

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Also on the topic of rectifier:

- The 5Y3 can be used with high power tube like the EL34 ? Any disadvantages since it's for lower power tubes?

The 5Y3 has a max DC current of 120mA. With two high power output tubes like EL34 and the pair of 6SL7, you are coming up to 110-115mA, close to the maximum rating of the 5Y3. So could it run them? Yeah, but you will be running that rectifier very hard, I would recommend using 5Y3 with lower power tubes like 6V6 and reserve higher current rectifiers like 5R4, GZ34, etc. for high power tubes.

I completed my Aegis build last night! Not full closed up because I am missing screws for my Lundahl enclosers (very much the homer meme with a bunch of clips holding back his fat right now lol).

It sounds absolutely incredible and I couldn't be more happy with it... I think I have peaked for the year and we are only a week in lol. Thanks L0rdGwyn for this incredible design and your generosity to share it with community, truly a labor of love! Dave from landfall is an absolute gem and helped me to make sure all my designs came out correctly. And my close friend who teaches electronics came over and helped me finish it, saved me a lot time and headache (we blew 1 of 2 fuses lol).

Currently running Mullard GZ34, Tung-SOl 6SU7GTY, and Mullard EL37.

More pictures once I have it fully closed up and feet on. I also did a timelapse of the build I will post if people are interested (after I edit)!

I woke up like a kid on christmas today, I couldn't wait to go back to listening to it... which I will now do

Looks very nice, great design, well done!

 

[Kdot]

Looks very nice, great design, well done!

I wanted to do the amplifier justice and I know this will be sitting on my desk for a long long time! Thanks again for the incredible circuit and super user-friendly guide! I have been excited about building this thing for months, and when I finally got to listen to it--- all the planning was well worth it. This amp is fantastic.

 

[Toonartist]

I got an RCA 5R4GYB for $15 on Etsy. LeedsRadio is a reliable seller there, and he has several 5R4GYB for $22-32.

That particular version of the RCA rectifier is really good, especially if you need to dial down the warmth a touch in order to match output tubes / headphones. It also has quite a wide soundstage. Great value and very easy to get a hold of.

 

[Toonartist]

So I did some tube rolling today, I currently have:
Mullard GZ34
RCA 5691, Tungsol 6SU7GTY
Matsushita XF2 EL34, Mullard EL37, Mullard EL38
My favorite so far is definitely the 6SU7GTY + EL37. This combo so rich in the mids and the bass kicks so hard naturally, really nice decay too. Feel like listening to honey.
It may be too tubey at some point but right now I'm loving it. EL37 was favorite across the board and same for the 6SU7GTY.
EL34 and EL38 have slightly more stage, clarity, snappiness but I could see them fatiguing on poorly mastered tracks. EL38 sounded in between EL34 and EL37.

Also, I was getting some noise when the volume was cranked, so switched my dac to optical and I am now powering it off a usb brick. Now there's virtually no noise on max volume, even with low impedance headphones.

I've found with most tubes they need approx 50hrs of run in before they settle down and sound as they should. Don't forget, some of these tubes have been sat around for decades and the gases and materials inside need to be used a bit to bring them up to speed.

Also, the amp itself will need a little time to run in and will sound better and better for the first 100hrs or so. Keep the tubes you enjoy the most in at the moment and run them for 50 - 60hrs and then repeat with a different set of tubes.

I've now set myself a rule... once a new pair of tubes goes in they don't come out until 60hrs have passed. At that point I consider them run in. It helps to give a new tube every chance to get to it's best and for me to adjust to it. If you have a few sets of tubes, consider keeping a record of which tubes have been used and how long etc. If they go pop in the future it will help gauge tube lifespan etc. If they last yrs it will be very hard to remember exactly when they were bought, first used etc without that note.

Edit. Forgot to say. If you want the extra width and extended highs of the EL38 but keep a little of the warmth you get from the EL37, use the Brimar 5R4GY rectifier. It has really nice bass & texture and sounds a little warmer than the GZ34. I've found that pairs best with the EL38. The GZ34 + EL38 can be a little too much on the detail and clarity and become too much for longer listening sessions.

 

[Kdot]

I've found with most tubes they need approx 50hrs of run in before they settle down and sound as they should. Don't forget, some of these tubes have been sat around for decades and the gases and materials inside need to be used a bit to bring them up to speed.

Also, the amp itself will need a little time to run in and will sound better and better for the first 100hrs or so. Keep the tubes you enjoy the most in at the moment and run them for 50 - 60hrs and then repeat with a different set of tubes.

I've now set myself a rule... once a new pair of tubes goes in they don't come out until 60hrs have passed. At that point I consider them run in. It helps to give a new tube every chance to get to it's best and for me to adjust to it. If you have a few sets of tubes, consider keeping a record of which tubes have been used and how long etc. If they go pop in the future it will help gauge tube lifespan etc. If they last yrs it will be very hard to remember exactly when they were bought, first used etc without that note.

Edit. Forgot to say. If you want the extra width and extended highs of the EL38 but keep a little of the warmth you get from the EL37, use the Brimar 5R4GY rectifier. It has really nice bass & texture and sounds a little warmer than the GZ34. I've found that pairs best with the EL38. The GZ34 + EL38 can be a little too much on the detail and clarity and become too much for longer listening sessions.

This is great advice, thank you! This is actually my first tube amp (yeah, I really went for it lol), I did let the tubes warm up for 30-60 min before really judging them, but I will give this method a shot!

And I will hunt down a Brimar 5R4GY!

 

[Toonartist]

Wow... a great first tube amp to start on You'll certainly have plenty of options to play around and experiment with

 

[L0rdGwyn]

This is great advice, thank you! This is actually my first tube amp (yeah, I really went for it lol), I did let the tubes warm up for 30-60 min before really judging them, but I will give this method a shot!

And I will hunt down a Brimar 5R4GY!

Out of curiosity, what amp were you using before Aegis?

 

[Kdot]

Out of curiosity, what amp were you using before Aegis?

I upgraded from a Schiit Asgard 3 to a Flux Labs FA-10 last year, the FA-10 will probably be my solid state amp for a while, though I imagine I will rarely be using it now that I have the Aegis. I am still using my Modius (AKM 4493) as my DAC.

 

[Phantaminum]

@L0rdGwyn Got to the last step on testing our voltages. I’m not getting any voltage from the TP13 and TP5/TP6. I see that the rectifier, power tubes, and driver tubes do light up. What should I be looking for troubleshooting?

Edit - More measurements:

A/C test:
TP7 and TP8 = 6.77v with both 6SL7s plugged in.

Around 6.6v with all the tubes added.

DC test:
When measuring the voltage on TP5 or TP6 and TP13 it measures as .567v

 

[L0rdGwyn]

@L0rdGwyn Got to the last step on testing our voltages. I’m not getting any voltage from the TP13 and TP5/TP6. I see that the rectifier, power tubes, and driver tubes do light up. What should I be looking for troubleshooting?

Edit - More measurements:

A/C test:
TP7 and TP8 = 6.77v with both 6SL7s plugged in.

Around 6.6v with all the tubes added.

DC test:
When measuring the voltage on TP5 or TP6 and TP13 it measures as .567v

Hey! That means something is up with the B+ supply. Do you mind posting some photos of the B+ parts, i.e., rectifier socket, 22uF reservoir cap, and the PCB itself? Could be a cap in the wrong orientation, a short, or perhaps a bad solder joint on the PCB.

 

[Phantaminum]

Sure can and thanks for helping. Let me know if you need a close up or different angle.

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Sure can and thanks for helping. Let me know if you need a close up or different angle.

Thanks can I see a shot of the full circuit and the rectifier socket wiring?

 

[Phantaminum]

Thanks can I see a shot of the full circuit and the rectifier socket wiring?

Here you go:

 

[L0rdGwyn]

Here you go:

I see the issue. The single red lead from the rectifier socket to the reservoir cap is connected to pin 7, but it should be connected to pin 8, the same as one of the yellow rectifier heater leads. Also the resistor leads from pin 3 and very close to pin 4, I would bend them away to be sure they don't cause a short.