Hello all, I need some help from a member with ATH-M50. What I need is the size of the outer "cup" of these headphones, more specifically the diameter from hole-to-hole, where the headband loop attaches.

Thanks Tomb, I was finally able to measure the voltages (my old dmm died, then no time, and so on..) so.. Input to Alien (from Soha 12v points through lm317 reg) - 10.50v 5v test point - 5.42v 3.3v test point - 3.30v so everything seems ok, right? Atleast in what concerns the voltages.

Hello. I just finally finished my AlienDAC...well actually I finished all the soldering about a year ago but just yesterday I got to hook it up. When plugging it in to any of my laptops, I first get greeted with the usual message about a USB device being plugged in the port. Straight after...

Hi, I've been listening through a SOHA amp and RP-21's the past 2 years, however, the RP-21 headband is giving up, and although I enjoy these cans a lot, I think it's time for something different. My listening habits have somehow change a bit aswell, I enjoy a high SQ, but as most of my...

Hi, I'm currently with RP-21's...running through AlienDAC/SOHA combo... The RP21's are starting to show some wear after nearly 2 years (cracked headband) so I'm considering new choices. So..should I change to any of the following? Grado SR60 Grado SR80 /SR60i Alessandro MS1 /MS1...

Are there other differences between the two than the display (for rpms?) and the slight change in the shape? If not, then probably its not worth the extra money (dont know the difference actually). Im using a 3956 clone from years and until nw I've never had any problems getting the desired...

Yepp, I get continuity there, also starting from pin 1 and turning the shaft, I get continuity on that "extra" pin on row two and the corresponding other pins. So it looks like the pins are the same order as on that picture (after all its the same blue selector) maybe theres a manufacturing...

Mine is 99% like this one The only difference is the placement of the row with more pins, if you look well, the one marked as position 1 has double the pins of the other rows (the same thing in the side where is the other screw). Well on mine, this row with more pins is on the place where...

thats clear, thanks. So I guess I should just multimeter it somehow to find out which pins/resistor places are for which positions of the switch.

Hi Guys. I've just got from ebay a stepped attenuator "kit" this doesnt come with instruction so I need bit of help. The selector is almost exactly as here http://www.diyfidelity.com.au/produc...products_id=32 so I'm using this as guidance. But I just can't figure out how do I know which pins...

Cant ignore asking...but what is that thing over what you took the pictures of the cmoy? Edit: nevermind, just saw the link to your Pro-Ject Xpression III

If the shipping ends out to be reasonable, I might be in.

Would the Sijosae buffer work, (and how good/bad) as a replacement for OPA2134 in the SOHA output stage. I know Jisbos is out, and its the way to go for SOHA, but until I finish the remaining pending projects, this one looks quite interesting.

If the cap sees higher than 10v across it, there would be a high risk for the cap to blow up. As fordgtlover said, stick with the stock one or find one rated at 16v or higher.

I just ordered one of these for my SOHA The resistors dont look anything special though, and I'm still not sure if it'll fit my enclosure. I've seen these same switches assembled with SMD resistors, so I might still try that.