Maverick Audio TubeMagic D1 (DAC/Amp) - Condensed FAQ and Info Thread
Apr 1, 2015 at 11:03 AM Post #736 of 783
One local guy offered me an exchange of 2-3 months old Mav D1 to my Matrix M-Stage. I am using hd650 as hp, Qls Qa360 as transport. It has line out, optical out coax out features.

So guys, would it be fair and worthwhile?
 
Oct 2, 2015 at 9:32 PM Post #738 of 783
How would the D1 Plus do with something like IEM's or low-impedance sensitive headphones?  Like, say, my Trinity Delta IEM's with 16ohm impedance and 110dB sensitivity?  Would there be background hiss/noise?  Or would I have to set the volume-pot so low as to create a channel imbalance?

And hold up.  Will it even be using the tube if I use the headphone-out from it?
 
Oct 2, 2015 at 10:17 PM Post #739 of 783
  How would the D1 Plus do with something like IEM's or low-impedance sensitive headphones?  Like, say, my Trinity Delta IEM's with 16ohm impedance and 110dB sensitivity?  Would there be background hiss/noise?  Or would I have to set the volume-pot so low as to create a channel imbalance?

And hold up.  Will it even be using the tube if I use the headphone-out from it?

 
I'd expect there to be noise with IEMs.  The tube is only used for the preamp out, not headphone out.
 
Oct 2, 2015 at 10:27 PM Post #740 of 783
   
I'd expect there to be noise with IEMs.  The tube is only used for the preamp out, not headphone out.

Well then nevermind on wanting to buy it, sheesh, if I can't get the "tube-sound" from the headphone out I have no interest in the product, haha.  Thank you for the info!
 
Oct 2, 2015 at 10:39 PM Post #741 of 783
Some IEMs are fine. My Klipsch X7i (50 Ohm) are great. My ATH-IM03 (34 Ohm) get a bit muddled and grungy. As does Angie (14 Ohm).

So, stay away from low-impedance and the D1 Plus.

But since you have already changed your mind on the matter... :)
 
Oct 2, 2015 at 11:03 PM Post #742 of 783
Some IEMs are fine. My Klipsch X7i (50 Ohm) are great. My ATH-IM03 (34 Ohm) get a bit muddled and grungy. As does Angie (14 Ohm).

So, stay away from low-impedance and the D1 Plus.

But since you have already changed your mind on the matter...
smily_headphones1.gif

Again, thanks for the info.  But yeah, the whole reason I'd get this to begin with would be as a cheap way to get "an intro to tube-sound."  So if it won't be using the tube foer the headphone output, it's useless to me anyways, as I was saying above :p
 
Oct 7, 2015 at 10:57 AM Post #743 of 783
  My D1 is louder on the left channel. Anything I can do?


Mine just started doing the same thing yesterday (D1 Plus with all upgrades) with my active monitors (headphones are fine).. I tried both the regular outputs and tube outputs. The left channel sounds fine, but the right channel is very quiet all of a sudden (on both regular R and tube R). I just got this thing like 2 weeks ago.
 
Edit 10/30/15: The problem just went away after a few days of my initial post... not sure why but I hope it doesn't return.
 
Nov 8, 2015 at 4:10 PM Post #744 of 783
I don't know if this is the right thread, but I have owned a Tubemagic D1 plus for some time now, but tonight I connected my Fiio X5 for the first time via a coaxial cable, and now there are these strange crackling pops when I start an album and in between tracks, I'm shure it's not the Fiio since I also own a Meier Symphony, and when I connect the Fiio to that (via coax) there are no crackling pops. The Fiio connected via line-out to the D1 is OK.
 
Nov 8, 2015 at 4:22 PM Post #745 of 783
  I don't know if this is the right thread, but I have owned a Tubemagic D1 plus for some time now, but tonight I connected my Fiio X5 for the first time via a coaxial cable, and now there are these strange crackling pops when I start an album and in between tracks, I'm shure it's not the Fiio since I also own a Meier Symphony, and when I connect the Fiio to that (via coax) there are no crackling pops. The Fiio connected via line-out to the D1 is OK.

 
Crackling pops are normal for the D1 due to the lack of muting relays.
 
Nov 10, 2015 at 10:13 PM Post #747 of 783
I have a Modi and Asgard 2 right now but is looking for a new DAC for my computer system.
Is the A1 Plus significantly better than the Modi?
Can I connect it to my Asgard 2 then to my active speakers? What happens when I plug in my headphone while the speaker is playing?
 
Jan 23, 2016 at 11:44 AM Post #748 of 783
 
Mine just started doing the same thing yesterday (D1 Plus with all upgrades) with my active monitors (headphones are fine).. I tried both the regular outputs and tube outputs. The left channel sounds fine, but the right channel is very quiet all of a sudden (on both regular R and tube R). I just got this thing like 2 weeks ago.
 
Edit 10/30/15: The problem just went away after a few days of my initial post... not sure why but I hope it doesn't return.

 
Hi, same here. I have also wasted money on an amp that I dumped because I suspected it to be the cause of the issue. Now I have a pair of high impedance headphones and I have this behavior with different sources and on all outputs. I am writing to the customer care to see if they have any idea on where the issue is and how it can be solved.
The issue, in my case is not going away.
 
Cheers,
sweetsuicide
 
Jan 25, 2016 at 3:54 AM Post #749 of 783
   
Hi, same here. I have also wasted money on an amp that I dumped because I suspected it to be the cause of the issue. Now I have a pair of high impedance headphones and I have this behavior with different sources and on all outputs. I am writing to the customer care to see if they have any idea on where the issue is and how it can be solved.
The issue, in my case is not going away.
 
Cheers,
sweetsuicide

 
Ok, I found a thread of someone having the same issue on a D1 regular. The guy says that by moving around the cables inside the cabinet the contact moves and the situation changes. I opened the chassis and tried to straighten out all of the contacts inside. This actually fixed the issue. My suspicion is that that "cheap" (but necessary in an industrial project) pin connectors are not always the best solution. If someone is capable enough, removing the plastic contacts and soldering them directly on the board would solve all those issues.
 
Cheers,
sweetsuicide
 
Jan 26, 2016 at 9:42 AM Post #750 of 783
   
Ok, I found a thread of someone having the same issue on a D1 regular. The guy says that by moving around the cables inside the cabinet the contact moves and the situation changes. I opened the chassis and tried to straighten out all of the contacts inside. This actually fixed the issue. My suspicion is that that "cheap" (but necessary in an industrial project) pin connectors are not always the best solution. If someone is capable enough, removing the plastic contacts and soldering them directly on the board would solve all those issues.
 
Cheers,
sweetsuicide


I have not had the problem return since, but in case it does, I was thinking about what you just said. By fixing the contacts, do you mean opening up the unit and tightening the inputs?
 

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