[anjelbino]

Hi guys, this is my first post and my first venture into tubes... Just bought a used LD 1+ with extra mullard tubes.. I think its labeled as mullard EC8010... Dont know anything about how these sound.. My headphones are Hd600 and Dt770 pro 250ohms..also i have a monk plus...

Can i ask your advice on what i should do to make the LD 1+ to be suitable for my headphones? I believe that you have to change some gain settings to make the amp suitable for high impedance headphones like mine... Will the mullards also sound good with them? The sound im looking for is a balanced tubey sound signature... Will i be able to achieve it with my LD 1+ given that my headphones are high impedance? BTW my source will be my PC going into my oppo ha2 SE as DAC then line out to the LD 1+.... Any advice will be greatly appreciated as i know nothing about tubes... Just wanted to try them out.... Thanks

 

[Dobroserdov]

Hello guys, thanks to this thread I got LD 1+ for my Grado RS1.
I did an OPA2017 upgrade already and changed tubes to Voskhod 6J1P-EV (very cheap BTW - $1 for the pair).
Still I'm a bit confused about GAIN jumper switches for LOW/HIGH IMPEDANCE. I have LD v.4.0 and I checked different sources (manuals, youtube videos) and they contradict to each other. I'm still not sure if it is right position for Grado (low impedance), please take a look at the photo attached.

 

[Arvan]

Hello guys, thanks to this thread I got LD 1+ for my Grado RS1./QUOTE]

It's set to low from the start. It's hard to see but the switch is set to L. I thought i had mine on high but when i changed it to 2 on the switch made it even louder

 

[Dobroserdov]

Thank you, I was 80% sure it was set to low accoring to pic attached.

I wonder what do you guys think about ways to make LD sound more "dark"?
I have Grado RS1i which tends to sound bright (opposite to newer RS1e) and it seems that Voskhod tubes add even more brightness.
Any ideas about tubes swapping or maybe change OPA2107 to MUSES?

 

[frogmeat69]

Thank you, I was 80% sure it was set to low accoring to pic attached.

I wonder what do you guys think about ways to make LD sound more "dark"?
I have Grado RS1i which tends to sound bright (opposite to newer RS1e) and it seems that Voskhod tubes add even more brightness.
Any ideas about tubes swapping or maybe change OPA2107 to MUSES?

Some Mullard tubes might warm it up a bit, never tried any Grado cans, but have read they are pretty bright, so Mullards should help a bit at least.

 

[Arvan]

Thank you, I was 80% sure it was set to low accoring to pic attached.

I wonder what do you guys think about ways to make LD sound more "dark"?
I have Grado RS1i which tends to sound bright (opposite to newer RS1e) and it seems that Voskhod tubes add even more brightness.
Any ideas about tubes swapping or maybe change OPA2107 to MUSES?

I got some Mullard EF91 today and i think its the smoothest tube i have tried so far. Its hard to tell exactly since a tube change takes some time and the hearing memory is very short to tell exactly. I have Voshkods and Mullard 8100 to compare with. Stock OP-amp so far but i have a 2107 on the way. Since this is a hybrid the OP might play a big role.

 

[Dobroserdov]

Thank you guys, I will definetly try Mullard tubes. I got mine Muses02 today and I need to share my thoughts - it's fantastic. It does sound more soft and dark, and overal sound improvment comparing to OPA2107 is dramatic. Maybe I have fake OPA2017 because I ordered it on Aliexpress, while Muses came from trusted dealer in Japan. Anyway it's not cheap but worth every penny IMO.

 

[WilliamLeonhart]

There're also the Bursons and the Sparko to try. After around 1 year I think the Burson v5 is best to pair with my tubes

 

[FLguy]

Greetings HFers and LD owners.

I have a LD I+ v3.0 and want to switch tubes - to the GE5654W initially. Unfortunately, the manual I received doesn't match the version of the unit which have, and I haven't found a copy of the manual for v3.0 yet. Does any know where I can get a copy of the manual for V3.0 of the LD I+?

I've been able to figure out most of the jumper settings from postings here (thanks everyone). It looks like K2 should be set to the 6J1 side, but am not sure of the correct setting for jumper K1 when using GE 5654W tubes. Can anyone confirm how jumpers K1 & K2 should be set for these tubes please?

 

[FLguy]

I found a version of the manual (1.11) which describes the same number and names of jumpers as are present on my board, so it _looks_ like it matches my V3 board. The manual doesn't state the board revision that it describes (and the folks at Little dot have not yet responded) so I can't be completely certain.

In case it is helpful for others, according to this version of the manual, again potentially describing the V3 board:

To use WE408A tubes:
1. K1 and K2 set to the side of the “WE408A” text
2. Make sure the jumper caps are removed from J1 and J2 (open circuit)

To use 6JI, 6AK5, 5654, WE403A/B, etc:
1. K1 and K2 set to the side of the “6JI” text
2. Make sure the jumper caps are removed from J1 and J2 (open circuit)

To use EF91, EF92, CV131, CV138, etc:
1. K1 and K2 set to the side of the “6JI” text
2. Make sure the jumpers caps are in place over both J1 and J2 (short circuit)

I hope this helps. Cheers.

 

[WilliamLeonhart]

I found a version of the manual (1.11) which describes the same number and names of jumpers as are present on my board, so it _looks_ like it matches my V3 board. The manual doesn't state the board revision that it describes (and the folks at Little dot have not yet responded) so I can't be completely certain.

In case it is helpful for others, according to this version of the manual, again potentially describing the V3 board:

To use WE408A tubes:
1. K1 and K2 set to the side of the “WE408A” text
2. Make sure the jumper caps are removed from J1 and J2 (open circuit)

To use 6JI, 6AK5, 5654, WE403A/B, etc:
1. K1 and K2 set to the side of the “6JI” text
2. Make sure the jumper caps are removed from J1 and J2 (open circuit)

To use EF91, EF92, CV131, CV138, etc:
1. K1 and K2 set to the side of the “6JI” text
2. Make sure the jumpers caps are in place over both J1 and J2 (short circuit)

I hope this helps. Cheers.

That surely will help new members. Sorry I didn't notice your question earlier, but really glad you figured it out. Anyway in my case I have been sticking to EF95 because of laziness and the pure goodness of all those Mullards, EI Yugoslavia and GE.

 

[msknight]

I've got an LD 1+ and have been using it for a while, but tonight it burned through a valve (Mullard M8083) - it had been happily playing for months. So I replaced it, and I got audio for a few minutes, and then I lost the replacement valve.

Now, I'm fearful of replacing that one, in case this is a fault in the LD 1+ itself. So I thought I'd ask for some opinions before I made another move with this unit and potentially lost another valve needlessly.

 

[Arvan]

I've got an LD 1+ and have been using it for a while, but tonight it burned through a valve (Mullard M8083) - it had been happily playing for months. So I replaced it, and I got audio for a few minutes, and then I lost the replacement valve.

Now, I'm fearful of replacing that one, in case this is a fault in the LD 1+ itself. So I thought I'd ask for some opinions before I made another move with this unit and potentially lost another valve needlessly.

Same thing happened to me. I thought one tube went out but i put in the cheap stock tube but the socket or the complete right channel is dead. All the solder points and everything inside the amp looks in good condition and i cant trace the issue.

 

[FLguy]

That surely will help new members. Sorry I didn't notice your question earlier, but really glad you figured it out. Anyway in my case I have been sticking to EF95 because of laziness and the pure goodness of all those Mullards, EI Yugoslavia and GE.

No problem. Right, I'm planning to try GE 5654Ws and some Voshkod's, and an improved op amp, and see how that goes. Experimenting to find a good match for a pair of DT800s, for which the LD1+ seems like a good match so far (with the well noted special characteristics of the 880s of course, pros & cons).

 

[msknight]

Same thing happened to me. I thought one tube went out but i put in the cheap stock tube but the socket or the complete right channel is dead. All the solder points and everything inside the amp looks in good condition and i cant trace the issue.

I'm fairly sure that I'm having the same issue - that the valve is fine but that the 1+ is losing power on the right channel. I've posted on the official LittleDot forum, but it looks to be unmoderated right now, as there are all sorts of sales and spam posts popping up in there.