DIY Earbuds
Oct 9, 2016 at 6:27 PM Post #47 of 4,721
Awesome mods Ozkan. Where is the best source to buy she3800? I see only iems when I search.

As for the mods you did on them, is that just cotton and a blob of bluetac? I did similar mods to my Foster t40rp. Have not tried on any earbuds.


Thank you mate. I bought them from fasttech. Yeah a small piece of foam and BlueTac. You can see the pictures that I posted earlier.

Btw, today I swapped the cable to Audio Technica IM50 stock cable and they are now my favourite earbud. I rank them over the Monk.

You should buy and do the mod mate! :thumbsup:



 
Oct 9, 2016 at 6:32 PM Post #48 of 4,721
  @Ira Delphic link? There are like 100 different sounding mx500 clones on AliExpress so i'd be willing to bed it is a mx500 inspired driver in a mx500 clone shell.

 
 
32 Ohm version:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sennheiser-MX500-S-DIY-upgrade-bass-HiFi-In-Ear-Headphones-Earbuds-silver-cable/302056584157?_trksid=p2045573.c100507.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555017%26algo%3DPL.CASSINI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3D5cc3e2bb994048e4b42c29e7baa108e9%26pid%3D100507%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26
 
This is the 300 Ohm version - 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sennheiser-MX500-T-DIY-upgrade-bass-HiFi-In-Ear-Headphones-Earbuds-Twisted-cable-/302090057713?var=600901251924&hash=item4655f877f1:g:nJsAAOSw8w1X7GUO
 
Oct 9, 2016 at 6:33 PM Post #49 of 4,721
You'd better find Edifier H180 driver and shell guys. :wink:
 
Oct 9, 2016 at 7:25 PM Post #51 of 4,721
Whoa that is really cheap. Great mod platform. I will definitely have to order a few. What size drivers do they use? That would be a perfect candidate for recabling practice. Going to order 3.

Looking forward to trying your mods Ozkan.
 
Oct 9, 2016 at 7:38 PM Post #52 of 4,721
Whoa that is really cheap. Great mod platform. I will definitely have to order a few. What size drivers do they use? That would be a perfect candidate for recabling practice. Going to order 3.

Looking forward to trying your mods Ozkan.


It's better to order them with the registered mail as it's fully trackable and way faster and only costs $1.12 for three pairs. They also send you a picture of your parcel. Definitely impressed with their service. :thumbsup:
 
Oct 9, 2016 at 7:47 PM Post #53 of 4,721
I ordered 3 more Philips SHE3800. :)
 
Oct 10, 2016 at 12:22 PM Post #55 of 4,721
I posted on the Earbud roundup thread - my single copy of SHE3800 doesn't work with my LG V10 and also an LG G4. I tried cleaning the plug with alcohol and still doesn't work. With y adapter and PC it works fine. Other than that the sound is impressive for what I paid and not far from the MP! 
 
If I gently push the jack in and keep some pressure the connection is solid. Not a solution so for testing with my V10 I'll use the y connector.
 
Oct 10, 2016 at 7:59 PM Post #56 of 4,721


The easiest Monk mod:

The green thing in the middle hole is Blutac. By adding a tiny bit Blutac, the soundstage expands, the mid-bass tames a bit, more laid back mids and subbass gets more prominent.

ozkan, it maybe a good idea to use different colors of blu-tack to indicate left and right channels (i.e blue and red etc..)
 
Oct 11, 2016 at 12:28 AM Post #57 of 4,721
The easiest Monk mod:
The green thing in the middle hole is Blutac. By adding a tiny bit Blutac, the soundstage expands, the mid-bass tames a bit, more laid back mids and subbass gets more prominent.

 
Just grabbed some blu tac off the wall and tried it on my Monk Plus.
 
Lower bass improvement is most noticeable, as well as tighter mid bass. Some lifting of veil around upper bass/lower mids, but seem to only affect quite a narrow band. Voices are slightly lifted, but warmth/veil still layers over the performance. Bassheads should be happy with this blu tac trick. Vapman should try this on his monk plus, which he already like in the first place. I am leaving the blu tack on, as it then requires less extreme EQing to make it more suitable to my ears.
 
Compared to TY Hi-Z 32, Monk Plus (BT-mod) has almost all of TY32's dynamics, but with more control & restraint. On most songs now, I don't find myself wanting to switch out of MP (BT-mod) as before due to the overly warm presentation (no EQ).

 
Thanks for the tip.
 
Oct 11, 2016 at 4:47 AM Post #58 of 4,721
   
Just grabbed some blu tac off the wall and tried it on my Monk Plus.
 
Lower bass improvement is most noticeable, as well as tighter mid bass. Some lifting of veil around upper bass/lower mids, but seem to only affect quite a narrow band. Voices are slightly lifted, but warmth/veil still layers over the performance. Bassheads should be happy with this blu tac trick. Vapman should try this on his monk plus, which he already like in the first place. I am leaving the blu tack on, as it then requires less extreme EQing to make it more suitable to my ears.
 
Thanks for the tip.

 
Glad to hear that it also worked for your Monk Plus. Agreed, @vapman should definitely do this mod. 
wink.gif

 
Oct 11, 2016 at 3:53 PM Post #59 of 4,721
I posted this in the earbuds thread first, but it might belong here...

Does anyone know how to "open up" plastic that has been glued together?

I'm thinking of recabling the Aiwa V99 and I need to open them up. There is like a small lid or hatch on them that you probably are supposed to open for access to the cable, and that has been glued shut.

It can be seen in this picture:
 

(I found this photo online)
 
I'm thinking of using a thin razor and cut along the edges of the lid/hatch but that might not be enough.

The soldering part itself shouldn't be any big problem since the previous owner left about 2-3 cm of the original wire soldered onto the drivers and then I only need to remove the wire that the guy soldered on and solder the new wires onto the wires connected to the drivers.

But getting the cable into the housing, heck even getting access to the housings, seems to be a big challenge...

I got some good advice, like using a hair dryer to make the glue warm and easier to get through.
 
Oct 11, 2016 at 5:30 PM Post #60 of 4,721
I posted this in the earbuds thread first, but it might belong here...


Does anyone know how to "open up" plastic that has been glued together?


I'm thinking of recabling the Aiwa V99 and I need to open them up. There is like a small lid or hatch on them that you probably are supposed to open for access to the cable, and that has been glued shut.


It can be seen in this picture:



(I found this photo online)

I'm thinking of using a thin razor and cut along the edges of the lid/hatch but that might not be enough.


The soldering part itself shouldn't be any big problem since the previous owner left about 2-3 cm of the original wire soldered onto the drivers and then I only need to remove the wire that the guy soldered on and solder the new wires onto the wires connected to the drivers.


But getting the cable into the housing, heck even getting access to the housings, seems to be a big challenge...


I got some good advice, like using a hair dryer to make the glue warm and easier to get through.


You should warm the cover with hairdryer first then it should easily come off. Can you take closer pictures of the area you want to open up please? That would be more helpful for us to see how they are put together.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

  • Back
    Top