DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
May 23, 2017 at 8:45 PM Post #7,036 of 10,535
Well, if the cans have a TRSS 2.5 on either side you could use a TRS 2.5 if you cut the headband driver connection cable. I think at least.

This would allow you to not use the adapters that I mentioned above which could only make the rig sound worse. You would loose the ability to connect on just one side as the stock setup.

XLR is pretty hefty, they often use it for semi-pro/mobile stage lighting controllers.
 
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May 23, 2017 at 9:09 PM Post #7,037 of 10,535
I am not exactly sure how a connector can be Tip Ring Sleeve Sleeve, that sounds a bit redundant.:smile_phones:

You are correct though about XLR's and lighting, four pin XLR's are used in DMX lighting systems.

Any full size XLR will certainly handle the power but you have to understand the amp rating of a power supply. Because it is rated at 5 amps does not mean it pulls that much current all the time.
Are you running 12 volts or 6.3 in your filament circuit? Power (wattage) is current times voltage. It is how I knew you were talking 18 awg wire. At 6.3 volts, five amperes (if that) you are only looking at 31.5 watts max. You just left 18 awg territory and you are moving more to 20 or 22 awg.
Full size XLR's are large and bulky and overkill, but they will handle it lol. The chassis mount male or female do not take up much room though but if both ends are cable mount, you would be taking up a lot of room in the amp.
 
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May 23, 2017 at 10:15 PM Post #7,038 of 10,535
A TRSS connector was initially designed for use of microphone and headphone combos on the same wire.

More recently it has been used for balanced headphone connections or single ended headphone connections with individual seperate grounds for each driver.

Rarely it is used for cable mount volume and track control on a pair of headphones. Often if the microphone isnt used, the track control simply uses one of the driver channels.

TRSS has found its use most recently in the rare 2.5mm miniplug as opposed to 3.5mm miniplug. Some of the major corps Neutrik, Switchcraft, Amphenol may have begun to stock these connectors.

The benefit of 3.5mm miniplug to split channel 2.5mm miniplug is more unidirectional power distribution.
 
May 23, 2017 at 10:28 PM Post #7,039 of 10,535
A TRSS connector was initially designed for use of microphone and headphone combos on the same wire.

More recently it has been used for balanced headphone connections or single ended headphone connections with individual seperate grounds for each driver.

Rarely it is used for cable mount volume and track control on a pair of headphones. Often if the microphone isnt used, the track control simply uses one of the driver channels.

TRSS has found its use most recently in the rare 2.5mm miniplug as opposed to 3.5mm miniplug. Some of the major corps Neutrik, Switchcraft, Amphenol may have begun to stock these connectors.

The benefit of 3.5mm miniplug to split channel 2.5mm miniplug is more unidirectional power distribution.

Interesting. Can you post a link to one of these? I've never heard of TRSS. I've only heard of TRRS.
 
May 23, 2017 at 10:34 PM Post #7,040 of 10,535
I even checked my suppliers and could only find TRRS. Perhaps in some alternate universe there is a TRSS connector but it is one I have not visited. :smile_phones:

I am also working on splitting power and that being unidirectional. Now if only one person is thinking something, that is generally considered unilateral like I might be thinking it is time for bed whereas Allan is in a different time zone and it is the shank of the evening for him.
 
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May 26, 2017 at 11:34 AM Post #7,041 of 10,535
I found some 8 wire braid occ copper to use for a steampunk headphone project. Splitting it off four each side of the headphones I would guess a person can just do a four wire braid on each side? Either that or do two twisted pair going to each side, twisting a ground with a hot seems like a way to go as well were I to do twisted pair then separate the ground and dual hots once I get to each connector. This probably does not make a lot of sense.:smile_phones:
 
May 26, 2017 at 12:39 PM Post #7,043 of 10,535
I have been to this universe and I insist on it being Devine :). JK

Just a typo. TRSS or TRRS.

No animus intended. Earlier were you making a literary Steampunk reference? I did not recognize the characters if that was the case.

Anyway if I get time I will play around with 8 wire braid this weekend and see how I can split it off for dual entry headphones. Copper in a clear jacket should go with my overall build.
 
May 26, 2017 at 1:29 PM Post #7,045 of 10,535
A genre of sci-fi, it can also be called nouveau-Victorian. Think of Verne and Wells, the art is taken from there I would think but I am getting off topic.

Got any ideas for giving headphone cables an aged look to go with copper and bronze styled headphones? I am doing some clear pvc over copper OCC but I am always open to suggestions. Some photos of what I am talking about are in the Crack thread and California Headphone Company thread.

I was also trying to think through how to split 8 wire braid to split to dual entry headphones. It seems illogical to me to twist two wires going to the same positive, they would be electrically the same, it is why I may try pairs of positives and grounds twisted then naturally two hot wires to the right positive and two grounds to right positive.
 
May 26, 2017 at 10:02 PM Post #7,046 of 10,535
My suggestion would be to look for silicon brass or i prefer silicon bronze wire. Those have a beautiful aged look to them.

The prob is they are mostly plastic since the materials like to migrate. Thus they are very hard to drive due to it being mostly grains of metal in a plastic.

Real Bronze wire is really hard to get since it has to be ultra pure and then have ultra pure aluminum burned into it carefully to avoid vaporizing the bronze. If it is impure, the aluminum alloy process will lock the impurities in place.

The aluminum must also be very pure and specific energetic match or it will either not hold the quite energetic bronze or will gather other materials readily in an almost infinite manner to create ubiquity(What) metal? (AKA _tah)

Tungsten/Titanium alloys are even harder as they take a very very long time of heating and cooling cycles to alloy. Western Titanium/Tungsten true alloys are virtually non existant but strangely do exist in human form...daumn...prob a baddd idea

Bronze and brass can be used but have to be carefully shaped to retain their contents with specific self resonant shapes. If they have to be moved far from thair source of mining, they have to be plated with Tungsten/Titanium or cored with aluminum otherwise they will fade to what we generally consider (gold) (aka colored lead) (funny aluminum).

Silver, Gold, and copper are another game. Almost impossible to not burn to (funny aluminum) (aka energetic lead). Exotic copper such as Tellurium Copper from the Tellurium mine on I-70 between Denver and Vail can have small amounts of energy applied to it. Tellurium Silver has been reported to destroy miners and Tellurium Gold will really mess you up. They all age to the relatively safe Tellurium Copper. In fact the mine still spits out the stuff to a big cauldron.

Sylvanite crystals are pretty much the scariest thing one can witness. If they are really silver has yet to be proven...ala schrodiners kat. Strangely, they like to stay in place...Mica strangely looks silver but behaves like (funny lead) Thank the Founding Fathers? More like the Native American(s)...whatevs.

If anyone still wonders where Mount Holy Cross really is, figure it out...im not telling. Bad serpentine belt eh? I thought Everest/K2 looked difficult...mere weaklings. Just make a sphere, haha, and be sure to use some glue. (hint, negative space, another hint dont go out of bounds from Wildwood or Inner Mongolia, esp Inner Mongolia, esp Inner Mongolia)
 
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May 27, 2017 at 10:45 AM Post #7,047 of 10,535
Yeah thanks for the info, I need something that works well with sound and is easily obtainable so occ copper is fine for my application. I will post some photos if I get the cable done today.
 
May 27, 2017 at 2:50 PM Post #7,050 of 10,535
That is a Cairn terrier and Corgi mix, Woodstock is his name. You are forever responsible for that which you tame.

This is that cable i was talking of matching up with a custom amp and headphones, 8 wire braid going down to four wires per channel. I marked all wires with appropriate colored heat shrink tubing to keep them straight. The heatshrink tubing helped when i locked them down inside the clamp of the 3.5 mm connectors. This is one of many cables I will build for this system but for now i wanted the basic copper look. I am using a right angle Neutrik 1/4 inch connector because my headphone jack will be side mount whenever I complete the amp. The modified headphones use stereo 3.5 mm jacks and plugs, tip and ring are connected on each side. A very solid setup with redundancy built in, the sound quality with this cable is getting close to what I hope to achieve with this setup.

IMG_1917.JPG
 
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