That will never happen. 

That's the first version of the SRM-1 Mk2  and it's a bit different to the most common model.  Not sure which pot is which on this but it's easy to check underneath the PCB.  The pots have three pins so look for the one which has two of the pins connected together by a trace.  That's the offset...

  The amp on its own will do a far better job of doing the phase splitting than any transformer.  The high gain of the amplifier will generate a balanced signal from a single ended source without any external or extra components.  The exact same is true for the humble Stax SRM-252S and most...

  It doesn't make any sense to add a socket for the Koss.  First off it's one model with a unique connector, one which is also impossible to source without ripping it from an E/90 amp.  It's also very easy to make an adapter to Stax for them and they are electrically compatible.  To make the...

The Koss is far superior, both the phones and the amp.  No comparison really...

  The driver has promise but one of mine rattled which was rather alarming.  First thing to change about these are the earpads though, they are way too big and the biggest "bad" factor to the sound.    Also all H1 owners should know about this:  ...

Then problem with that theory is how would the generated static end up on the diaphragm.  The system is highly insulated so the only viable option for what's causing this is has to do with changes to temperature/humidity and how the peculiar nature of the 009 driver interacts with those. 

  That's pretty much completely incorrect.  The letters mean absolutely nothing and the serial numbers even less.  The parts used just represent the time when the units were built and how long the lifetime of the design was. 

Given that the RN60D metal film resistor is just about the perfect resistor then "upgrading" them can only be detrimental.  There are exceptions such as the "batteries" in the T2DIY which need a slightly inductive resistor (and Stax told us as much) but that isn't the case here. 

  IXYS or Sanyo only applies to the third stage CCS.  It's not really a good idea to mess with the current setting on that one so what we alter is the output stage standing power. 

These claims of a massive improvement with an increase in current in no way correlate to the data at hand or my own experience.  The circuit is completely linear down to about 2mA (or even slightly less) and we chose 5.5mA as there was no way to make the amp clip and it worked at +/-500V off of...

Those two are very different irrespective of the bias voltage. 

  This is completely normal.  The outside of the caps is tied to one pole (normally the - pole)  and with a bipolar PSU that would naturally be present on tops that have an uninsulated top. 

  Like all Lambdas, they have their good points.  The bass on the new Lambda's is the best from any stock unit though the comfort on the 507 is the worst of the lot.  Even the Lambda Pro do some things well but in the end the flaws are just too grating to enjoy the set.  Same thing applies to...

  I've never flip-flopped with the x07 range, they were awful from the day I received my first 507 with the 207 being the sole exception.  They aren't perfect (too bright/forward as all the new models are) but come closest to the ideal sound signature.  Dirt cheap too...    Don't see much...

  Change the plate resistors to 30K/2W or greater wattage.  I use Koa SPR2's raised about one inch off the PCB but metal film or metal oxide will be fine as well.    As for rewiring at the tubes, the current heater setup is for the 6CG7 which is a 6.3V tube.  The ECC99 is 12.6V with a center...

Any internal pics of the H3?  Interested if there are any real changes...   Quote:   Well the LNS drivers are more mellow so the midrange is great but the top and bottom end are a bit loose.  Still the best midrange of any Sigma I've ever heard... 

The amp will naturally drift as it warms up and something under 1V isn't out of the ordinary. 

The adapters were all custom made units so no chance of finding something off the shelf. 

Which version of the voltage selection does this one use?  There should be a small PCB to the side of the transformer where all the primary wires go...

The earpads are vinyl so that won't do much.  You need something that treats vinyl...

That does look nice.  Single gain stage before the output so it has output transformers? 

  It really isn't.  I've fixed 11 sets so far, some I could save while others are beyond saving in the sense my repairs would have been so invasive that they weren't SR-Omegas any more.  Not something I'd ever do...   As for the failures, the most common is imbalance which is one of two...

I would guess not as the tubes are the smallest of factors in this equation. 

Also make sure to remove the Kevlar threads inside the cable before tinning it.  You can burn them off but make sure you clean the copper before soldering.