what company did you get your toslink input from?

Having gone through tons of good high end phones, Im looking for sugestions for a pair of mobile phones. I love my A500's from audio technica, but they are too big and bulky to wear around outside (not that it stops me but still...) things im looking for: I love the bass in my a500's...

why not? its a toss up between cheapness and stubornness.. i have a pile of the 2n3906/2n3904 transistors and no ic buffers at the moment.

definatly not a first diy project. Im just thinking that the ipod has an amplifier already, the reason it doesn't work as well with my phones is the low impedence, so increasing the current should increase the quality, at least to some degree. I am planning on making it as small as...

Looking for some ideas/comments..... If I assume my portable source device is **not** going to have a line out, just a headphone out, Is it still ideal to use a full headphone amplifier (meta42 or whatnot) or would something like a well built diamond buffer or current follower be better...

Inductance isn't bad, but it has its place in a circuit. Almost every good power supply will have inductance to reduce noise in the output. I dont know if a permanant magnet would be good for a choke, the function of a choke is somewhat similar to a capacitor in that it holds a slight charge...

Inductance isn't bad, but it has its place in a circuit. Almost every good power supply will have inductance to reduce noise in the output. I dont know if a permanant magnet would be good for a choke, the function of a choke is somewhat similar to a capacitor in that it holds a slight charge...

are those things in the middle picture sensors? its hard to tell from the pic, but kind of looks like optical sensors of some sort, then again, i have no idea what it would do beyond that =)

I know your looking to design it yourself, but here is a discrete buffer based meta42 thats pretty simple to put together. http://headwize2.powerpill.org/ubb/s...ys=20&srch=42; sounds good too =)

i know its a dumb question, but i ask because i just realized i did this, are you sure you have the leads going in the right holes in your test board/multimeter? I tested some fets for a meta42 im building and was getting 400-500 ranges, until i realised i hade them in the wrong test...

342....

Another alternative if your just doing one or two boards, is to get a starter kit. The local elctronics place in Toronto sells a photo etch kit, with everything you need but etching solution. comes with two boards, developer, pen, rub on pads.... costs about 20 bucks canadian

ive used a double ended sharpie before, but the results were only OK... nothing great... better for touching up. if you have access to it, i like using letraset rub ons for it as well.. you can get some nice fine traces, and perfectly strait lines...

how about carbon fibre? if you dont feel like playing with the epoxy and whatnot, get two sheets for top and bottom, and a couple big thick chunks of aluminum for the sides....

If your desperate to get one, try scavenging a keychain fake money checker, ive seen them in the dollar store for about a buck or so....

i remember when i was a kid, we had an ancient color tv, generated so much static electricity, that you could draw on the screen with your finger, and the glow would last for a few minutes =)

seeing as how its a diy thread, why not make the jig yourself if it doesn't come with one, its just a wooden plate with some holes to screw on to the bottom of the router, and a slide to set the size of the hole. since you are doing speakers, you can probaly skip the slide thing since speakers...

I saw a home record cutter some time ago, expensive, and the quality was kinda so-so... it was designed for DJ's who want to spin their own stuff. neet, but umm... id rather have CD at the moment then sub-par records **edit** in fact here it is http://www.vestax.com/products/vrx2000.htm

i have sacrificed a few el-cheapo earbuds on previous amps... DC is bad... very bad... =) I may not be able to hear DC, but i can feel it when the coils start burning out.. hehe This amp was tested with ultra cheap earbuds i picked up for 99 cents at a surplus store until i was sure it was...

Those are Tributaries interconnects, they are a step up from monster cables for most people, but nothing spectacular. I think i paid about $60 canadian for them at a local hi-fi shop. im probably the wrong person to ask about ic's, I dont think they may *that* much difference in the sound. no...

well, the layout started nice and clean, and got worse as i fixed it. cut a wire here, move it there... =) All in all its not too bad. The only complaint I have is the gain is a bit low.... umm.. my bad =) I didn't test it with my good phones when it was breadboarded, just some old sony's... ah...

My latest frankenstein amp, OPA627 opamps, dual buffered by BUF634's, with a buffered virtual ground driven by a TLE2426. Sound is OK so far, but I have only just started listening to it. Currently the opamps are biased into class A operation with a simple resistor, I plan on changing that in a...

Since none of the local electronics supply stores seem to have a 72vct transformer, is it OK to use two 36v transformers? Or will it cause problems with uneven power between the two?

heheh.. manual, thats good =) the manual for this multimeter consisted of the valid ranges of sensitivity for voltage, amperage, capacitence, and resistance. Yes, the meter does lable it as HFE, but since its only a $15 meter, should I even bother with it for matching?

Hello, does anyone know what a cheap multimeter is measuring on the built in transistor testing? Just for the heck of it, i tested the transistors I just got for a Gilmore Dynamic amp, and the PNP varied from about 230 to 280, and the NPN ones from 240 to 260. Does this tell me anything...