If you do black I'd have to break down and order a short kit.

I watched a video about this the other day: http://www.depotbassam.com/2012/01/diy-smartphone-headphone-adapter-with.html    The video just shows how to hook up a mic and play/pause button, but it looks like it's working okay with an iPhone.  His schematic does not have all the parts that...

Just finished my GrubDAC build (cableDAC config).  Found out that I'm not all that great at surface mount soldering but still somehow got the DAC working.  Used lots of solder wick to clean up the messes I kept making.   Went with rubber grommet and a regular black case.  Many thanks...

  Unless you have dual outputs on your sound card or a loop out on your headphone amplifier, it’s difficult to have both your computer speakers and headphone amp plugged in at the same time.  I’ve got the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 speakers and found these maniacs online who have posted the...

The enclosures in the pictures above are Hammond 1455C801BK, Mouser part number 546-1455C801BK (for black).  The old PacTec enclosure I used was an HML-9VB, but it's not as nice as the Hammond.   Has anyone tried a CMoy with something lower than a 9V for the power supply (op amp would then...

Nice Reintz!  Looks like you have the same problem I do in that when the 9V runs out of juice you have to unscrew the back panel to swap batteries and/or recharge. What I was thinking would be nice would be to have the charger in the enclosure and then just have a DC jack on the back, like the...

  I used the same Hammond enclosure as the AMB Mini^3 since it seemed the smallest one that could still hold a 9V, but still ran out of room.  Had to move the caps for the input RC low-pass filter off the board as seen in the photo.  The result is a not-very-rugged mess of heat-shrink...

I went ahead and threw in a couple 215 ohm resistors for R11. The current draw is 23.7 mA. Thanks again for all the help.

Sorry about the long delay in replying, R11 is not populated. After re-reading your parts selection guide, it looks like I should put something in there to increase the bandwidth. This is embarrassing, but I'm not quite sure where to place the multimeter probes to measure the current draw.

No, I used a Burr-Brown OPA2132 for both the MINT and the Cmoy, the only difference being the surface mount package for the MINT. Thanks again for all the advice and guides and selling of PCBs.

Using Tangent's gain calculator, I have a gain of 10.88, which should be good. I do turn the MINT up more than the Cmoy, but they're different pots with different input voltage dividers, etc., so it's not that much of a difference. I'm wondering if maybe my surface mount soldering wasn't as...

I've built both a MINT and Cmoy and the Cmoy sounds better to me. Have I done something wrong? The Cmoy seems to have a lot more power in the lows, and a bigger soundstage. The MINT sounds a bit smoother, not as shrill as the Cmoy. I should mention that I listen to horrible music with...

Quote: Originally posted by Masonjar Integrity from Cleveland? just curious.. -jar You got it. Too bad they lost the Melnick bros.

Leatherface Pig Destroyer Integrity

I say get the Grado SR-225s.