Chet_Summers
New Head-Fier
- Joined
- May 25, 2003
- Posts
- 28
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- 6
Unless you have dual outputs on your sound card or a loop out on your headphone amplifier, it’s difficult to have both your computer speakers and headphone amp plugged in at the same time. I’ve got the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 speakers and found these maniacs online who have posted the schematics for the entire Klipsch Promedia line. After staring at the schematic for the control pod for a few minutes I realized that it’s just a headphone amplifier plus a volume control and high pass filter for the sub (which I thought was odd at first, but I guess it’s for DC blocking protection or something). I thought that my expensive headphone amps should sound way better than the one in the control pod and decided to rebuild the bass volume control and HPF.
Check out the schematic labeled “Schematic diagram of Control Pod” on this page: http://www.thompdale.com/bash_amplifier/2-1/2-1_bash_amp.htm
You don’t want anything to the left of the HEADPHONE OUT jack, just the stuff in the upper right starting with R519 and R520. Don’t forget the two power supply caps C511 and C512, you need those. I skipped the LED because I don’t like them (R529 and D405). Thanks to Tangent’s advice, I used an OPA2132PA for U501 instead of the TL074 in the schematic (plus I only needed 2 op-amps, not 4). For the DIN output connector (to be connected to the Klipsch subwoofer cabinet) I used a generic PS2 cable, although the wire colors don’t match exactly with what’s in the schematic (use a multimeter to figure it out as yours will probably be different both than mine and the schematic). I used a 1/4” jack for the input (to be connected to the expensive headphone amp output). I boxed the finished bass volume control and HPF into a Hammond enclosure shown below.
Pic below shows the control pod next to my finished rebuild.
End result: Doesn’t sound much different. I tested with a Headroom Home and Millett Hybrid MiniMAX, sounds about the same as before. I threw the bass volume control box under my desk, so things are a little bit cleaner, but I guess this whole project is sort of like putting lipstick on a pig. Always fun to build stuff though, and the volume pots on these control pods are crap, so this is an option if yours dies and you have a headphone amp.
Label | Value | Mouser Part # |
---|---|---|
R519 | 5100 Ω | 271-5.1K-RC |
R520 | 5100 Ω | 271-5.1K-RC |
R521 | 510 Ω | 271-510-RC |
R522 | 20.0 kΩ | 271-20K-RC |
VR502 | 10 kΩ | 688-RK097111080J |
U501 | OPA2132PA | 595-OPA2132PA |
R523 | 10 kΩ | 271-10K-RC |
C509 | 0.1 µF | 75-715P200V0.1 |
C510 | 0.1 µF | 75-715P200V0.1 |
R524 | 40.0 kΩ | 271-20K-RC (x2) |
R525 | 10.0 kΩ | 271-10K-RC |
R526 | 5110 Ω | 271-5.11K-RC |
R527 | 20.0 kΩ | 271-20K-RC |
R528 | 10 kΩ | 271-10K-RC |
C511 | 0.1 µF | 75-715P200V0.1 |
C512 | 0.1 µF | 75-715P200V0.1 |
Input | 1/4” cable | 172-0108 |
Output | 6 pin DIN | |
Case | Hammond | 546-1455CALBK-10 |