les_garten
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2008
- Posts
- 4,455
- Likes
- 31
Quote:
Thanx! What a pain in the Azz!
Originally Posted by Currawong /img/forum/go_quote.gif The internals are on three boards: The front board is the electronics and the rear two are the transformers. There's a generous amount of wire connecting everything so that you could just pull out, say, the front boards to change the opamps. To change the opamps, you first remove the volume knob and the nut on the volume pot, then the two hex screws holding on the front panel. Then you have to turn it over and remove the 9 front-most screws. It's easiest to do the front-center one last, as the board will then drop, which you can catch. Then you carefully turn it over again and slide it out. If it doesn't slide out because the wires catch, you have to remove the rear panel and push the wires from it through, as they tend to get caught. Note that the voltage regulators are on aluminium blocks, held by two screws each. On the bottom of them they seem to have lots of thermal grease, so things can get a bit messy. If you're thinking of (tediously) opamp rolling, the results will be the same as in the Zero DAC, roughly: LT1364: sounds rather "hard" and not musical, as well as running very hot. LM4562: Very "fun" sound with boosted bass and treble. I didn't have OPA627s to try unfortunately. I did manage to fit HDAMs in mine, with wires, leaving them to sit on top of the voltage regulators with a piece of plastic in between. There wasn't much difference between Earth, Sun and Moon in the MKV though. Securing the HDAMs in the unit though I didn't find a satisfactory solution for. |
Thanx! What a pain in the Azz!