[bluemonkeyflyer]

  BMF just send me message that he still have problems with thickness, I believe its because of sharp corners marked on this image:
 

 
I will need to cut it a bit or make it thicker (which mean you will need to sand it back to right shape. If anyone will find place that will be able to print it with reasonable price please let us know. meanwhile I will try to fix this issue. 

 
I will order a set of each current design from shapeways <dot> com for Beta Testing. The cost is ~ $9.00 for 2 of each design plus $5.00 shipping. It will take about 2 weeks to receive / test them. I will post results, here.
 
Of course, anyone else can do the same or download the files and print on your own 3D printer.
 
Thanks "G-Man!"

 

[fleasbaby]

Hi All,
 
I am looking at doing a DBV 3....was wondering if anyone knows a cheap source for Paxmate Lite and for Newplast? Would it be better to simply use Silverstone instead of the Paxmate and the Claytoon stuff being sold on Amazon?
 
Any advice?

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

  Hi All,
 
I am looking at doing a DBV 3....was wondering if anyone knows a cheap source for Paxmate Lite and for Newplast? Would it be better to simply use Silverstone instead of the Paxmate and the Claytoon stuff being sold on Amazon?
 
Any advice?

Silverstone probably works about the same as Paxmate Plus. No idea about Claytoon. Just be sure it's not "bake to dry" or it will melt the cups/baffles.
 
Newplast is only available from England. Shipping charges make it expensive but not out of reach.
 
Dynamat "cut to fit" the rear baffle compartments with felt overlaying the aluminum constrained layer is something I've been meaning to try. Add that to Dynamat oval rings on the ear side of the baffle, surrounding the drivers, may attenuate driver-baffle resonance. Worth a shot.

 

[fleasbaby]

  Silverstone probably works about the same as Paxmate Plus. No idea about Claytoon. Just be sure it's not "bake to dry" or it will melt the cups/baffles.
 
Newplast is only available from England. Shipping charges make it expensive but not out of reach.
 
Dynamat "cut to fit" the rear baffle compartments with felt overlaying the aluminum constrained layer is something I've been meaning to try. Add that to Dynamat oval rings on the ear side of the baffle, surrounding the drivers, may attenuate driver-baffle resonance. Worth a shot.

 
Awesome...so brand isn't that big a deal, and Paxmate isn't an absolute necessity. Good to know! I might just try the Dynamat thing instead, just to break new ground

 

[bitsnbytes]

fleasbaby, I use Silverstone. I haven't made comparisons to other brands, but it seems to work fine
 
One sheet of the Silverstone is enough to do many mods.
 
For Dynamat, BMF's wiki suggested chilling it before cutting, and I can second that. It will stick to your scissors. Also suggested is creating a template for cutting--you will need to have a guide for tracing over the Dynamat and the felt. The template will save you from second guessing when cutting.
 
For the felt over the metallic side of the Dynamat, I used thick soft felt (cut out with the template) and then I used 3M mount spray (available at art stores/stationers) on one side, then lay over the Dynamat. My choice of thick felt is two-fold: if using the original Fostex pads, they are soft against your ears; and (unproven) it might absorb any sound reflection more effectively.
 
Hope this helps.

 

[waveriderhawaii]

I got mine here. Seemed like a decent price for 2 large sheets.
 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999222
 
 

SilverStone Silent Foam SF01, Sound Dampening Acoustic EP0M Foam Material, Black, 21"x15", 4mm thick, 2 pcs

 

1. was $21.99
2. now  $15^.99

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

Chapter 30: Incrementally Mass Loading the Baffles with Dynamat Xtreme, Paxmate Plus, and Tungsten Putty

A few mods and measurements suggest distortion may be reduced by mass loading the baffles. I couldn't find my stash of Newplast so I used homemade Tungsten Putty.

Note that there were no tuning mods, just Shure 840 pads, SenEnCreaTive Wave Guides, and various methods of mass loading the ear side and rear side of the baffles. Add your favorite tuning modifications for good sound.

 

[bluemonkeyflyer]

   
Awesome...so brand isn't that big a deal, and Paxmate isn't an absolute necessity. Good to know! I might just try the Dynamat thing instead, just to break new ground

 I tried Dynamat in the rear baffle compartments, yesterday, and failed. The pieces are so small and separated by the baffle partitions. I doubt individual pieces do anything, unlike a larger single sheet around the ear side of the baffle. It's much more difficult to cut, handle, install, and remove than Newplast.
 
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[fleasbaby]

   I tried Dynamat in the rear baffle compartments, yesterday, and failed. The pieces are so small and separated by the baffle partitions. I doubt individual pieces do anything, unlike a larger single sheet around the ear side of the baffle. It's much more difficult to cut, handle, install, and remove than Newplast.
 
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

 
Will-do. Still flipping a coin in my head on whether or not to try the Dynamat stuff...stopped by Michael's over lunch today to get the clay (non-hardening, etc, etc), scrapbooking tape, stiffened felt. Also got some cotton balls. Now just waiting on the Silverstone. Oh yes. Would also help if I had some unmolested headphones to do the mods on, right? ...still a little more shopping to do.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

 I tried Dynamat in the rear baffle compartments, yesterday, and failed. The pieces are so small and separated by the baffle partitions. I doubt individual pieces do anything, unlike a larger single sheet around the ear side of the baffle. It's much more difficult to cut, handle, install, and remove than Newplast.

Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

I'm assuming that's more for sound dampening, or is it heavy enough to offer "mass loading"?

 

[htr2d2]

   I tried Dynamat in the rear baffle compartments, yesterday, and failed. The pieces are so small and separated by the baffle partitions. I doubt individual pieces do anything, unlike a larger single sheet around the ear side of the baffle. It's much more difficult to cut, handle, install, and remove than Newplast.
 
Good Luck and let us know how it goes.

Totally agree. It is messy and a pain.

 

[020Assassin]

I'd like to reterminate the stock T50RP cable. It has a 1/4 jack. I have a 1/8 male/female coupling, so I want to cut the 4 meter cable, and insert the coupling at 1.20 meters, so that I have a short cable for portable use that I can couple to the rest of the cable when I want to use the headphone with audio equpment.
 
Does anyone have the wiring diagram with the colour codes for Left, Right and Ground?

 

[jimmers]

  I'd like to reterminate the stock T50RP cable. It has a 1/4 jack. I have a 1/8 male/female coupling, so I want to cut the 4 meter cable, and insert the coupling at 1.20 meters, so that I have a short cable for portable use that I can couple to the rest of the cable when I want to use the headphone with audio equpment.
 
Does anyone have the wiring diagram with the colour codes for Left, Right and Ground?

If you have a meter just match the connections after you cut. Personally I bought a 3.5 straight  to 3.5 right angle 1.2 metre cable from the bay for <$2, I know, call me an audiophile.

 

[SeEnCreaTive]

So guys, I've been wondering for awhile, then I was just reading an article about nodded grados.

I think there might be a response miss match between the left and right channels on my T50rps. Of course songs and what not will phase from left to right, but I find on single sounds as they change in frequancey it will sound more to one side then where it started.

Very noticeable on lower end of the highs. A cymbal will start off where it should but the lower tones in the sound seem much more to one side.

I'm assuming this can be tuned, but its hard to target a single band, and I have nothing to make actual measure ments


Any suggestions?

 

[020Assassin]

If you have a meter just match the connections after you cut. Personally I bought a 3.5 straight  to 3.5 right angle 1.2 metre cable from the bay for <$2, I know, call me an audiophile.:rolleyes:

I could do that, but I want to make sure that I can use the 1/8 jack on my iPad, then connect it to the female 1/8 and have the four meter cable to connect to my stereo.

So I really need to know what colour the left channel is and what colour the riight channel. is there anyone who knows?