On the optical cables my measurements are just the cable but not the connector ends, which of course also add length. With the shortest I mention there is just enough length for a U and about 2cm from tip to tip on the U. this would allow for a iRiver or like device sitting on the D1. If you get it in toslink to toslink and get two of the right angle adapters, which work very well, you can have a short U not projecting out but lying along side of the ends of the D1 and iRiver. Or you could also get a mini to toslink (I got both) in the shorter length and have the U extending on out from the back of the units. I wish now I had gotten a tos to tos and ppurchased two 90 degree adapters. I also go the longer length in both toslink and mini to allow for a little more separation, though not much, or a different component with a toslink or mini out to the mini in of the D1. There, how is that. :^)

The shortest length, end to end as specified by Sys. Concept is 9.5cm and the longer one I got is 13.5 from one end to the other end of the entire optical cable including ends.

one question, how long is the optical cable and coax cable that came with the D1??

The optical is 1 meter and the coax is 1.5 I think.
I've found a serious problem after connecting the D1 to the USB. I've suddenly heard a decrease in the right side by about 30%. That happend after I've increased the volume to the 2 o'clock position. I tried everything but I was sure it's the DAC.
Post factum it has nothing to do with the USB. I've tried plug in the optical in with the sound card, but just as I've pulled the cup from the D1's optical it came back again !(the full sound)
So basically some connection inside maybe messed up .
Anybody else had this fault ?

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Great!! long enough from my PC to it

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In the slip of paper that counts as the manual it mentions an internal chip which detects the connection type, so I guess switching connections whilst the amp is connected can be an issue. If I recall correctly you may need to do a power cycle to pickup a different connection type.

If someone has the manual to hand perhaps they can comment - I'm at work so cannot access mine at the moment.

I have found that for some connection you need to power off the D1 and for some you don't. I just power it off and then back on when I make a new connection.

OK but I didn't plug anything to the DAC when it happened, I just unplugged the tiny cup on the optical in. The one that prevent dust to go in, and because of the snap some connection inside got loose (I recon) And sometimes vibration like tapping on my desk when the DAC is on it will set the volume straight.
So even when I powercycle the DAC it still keep the 30% lower volume on the right side till I touch the optical plug (the female on the device) or bang it a little (which pains me to do :..( )
Clearly something is wrong and I've notified iBasso and waiting for reply.

Yes, it sounds like something is wrong. I haven't read of this problem and have none with my unit. They do seem to have very good customer service and try hard to please, which is nice compared to many companies that are a pain to get a hold of.

MoAv....
There are 2 simple things you might try, just in hopes that you can get it working...First, blow several puffs of air into the optical input, in case there is a bit of foreign material interrupting the light beam. Second, remove the 4 front panel hex screws and the one Phillips screw from the back, then slide the circuit board out from the front about half way. The rearmost IC, sitting on a pedestal by itself is an AD8616, which is the DAC opamp. Try lifting it slightly and reseating to ensure you don't have a poor socket connection, as both L & R channels pass thru that opamp.

If I run the D1 through optical through the TBAAM would it basically be the same as running it through USB D1 because the TBAAM is also run through USB? Correct me if I'm making a major error. Just trying to learn.

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Yes, but one USB to SPDIF converter chip might sound better than the other...

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Could you explain? The D1 plugging in through USB isn't SPDIF right? The TBAAM is a pretty cheap thing though. It probably wouldn't be good to also run it through the TBAAM and THEN through spdif. Isn't it the less amount things in the pathway the better it is?

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Thanks I'll give it a go this weekend, I'll notify if there're any changes. Which Torx screwdriver should I use ?

It is not a torx, but a small hex. It is probably metric, but a 5/64" hex fits just fine.

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The D1 uses a PCM2906 to convert USB to S/PDIF before it reaches the DAC. I don't know what chip the TBAAM uses - maybe it's the same one. Try out your options and see what sounds best to you.