SunRa Fan
100+ Head-Fier
I guess you might say that tubes are the "OP Amp" of the Aegis, in comparison to the Burson. Is Burson the only amp with a fan inside?
ZMF Aegis Official Thread
- Thread starter AnyDave
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Honestly, the snob in me has a hard time listening to SS unless it is just casual listening on my AirPods Pro. I've had some SS amps come and go and none of them have come close to the tube amps I've owned for headphones or speakers. I've had the Burson Soloist & Soloist GT and the amp in the Chord TT2 along with a number of lower end amps. For me, SS amps sound "fine" but just don't pull me in emotionally like a tube amp. The Aegis took that to a new level for me where I get the emotion and the awe of the separation, depth, etc. I've wondered if there is a SS amp out there that I would REALLY like or it doesn't matter...I'm just more into tubes plain and simple. Not sure I could rationalize the cost to find out.
Rhodey
Previously known as RhodeyIII
Yeah, I’m the same. I tend to lean towards tubes as well. I really enjoyed the Bryston HPA and the Schiit MJ3. I would give the nod to the MJ3 honestly. Really enjoyed that amp with certain headphones. Such a great buy for the price. And I’d take it over the Bliss if you didn’t need the power. Obviously your dac and rest of the chain come in to play here as well.
Edit: oh and I really enjoy the Mojo 2 as well. Tube mini is very good too and it seems I reach for it more. Probably because I don’t have to worry about battery life.
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SunRa Fan
100+ Head-Fier
I came to tubes after actively avoiding them for many years only to find as you have that the resulting sound is more emotionally engaging than SS, generally speaking. There are some SS amps that do deviate from the neutral sound profile to offer something unique in their own way. The Rupert Neve RNHP is a good example of that. I keep one around and powered up as an alternative to the Aegis. Sometimes you want to hear something "else"...which is strange to say given how malleable the sound of the Aegis is. I've heard things through the RNHP that I've never heard from many other amps. So, as wonderful as the Aegis is, I would say don't give up on SS completely.
I mentioned the OP Amps in the Burson because I was under the impression that you can customize its sound by swapping them with other kinds of OP Amps as with tubes.
Okay, the Aegis has landed. Woot, woot! It arrived yesterday around noon but I wasn't able to set it up until late last night. I only got an hour or so with it, listening on my Bokeh Closed. I can already say without hesitation that this is not only the best-sounding tube amp I've ever owned but it also sounds better with the stock tubes out of the box than any other tube amp I've encountered. Superb work, ZMF. And it's gorgeous to look at. (Quick question for the group: I'm assuming most are using either ¼" with medium impedance or XLR with low for their Bokehs on Aegis?)
What I find fascinating reading this thread (still only to about post 60 and a long way yet to go) is how well Aegis responds to tube rolling, particularly with the power tubes and rectifier. Even though you're essentially restricted to the 6SL7s on the input, it'll be interesting to hear what's possible there too. It's the exact opposite of my OTL/OCL Folkvangr where rolling the input tubes makes a significant difference, but the power tubes (restricted to 6N6Ps) don't. My thanks to those who have already reached out via PM to offer guidance (@mchuckp) and with help starting a small tube collection to eventually roll with (@ckhirnigs113), which I can't wait to do once things get settled in. You both rock!
It's rainy and gloomy here, and I've finished my morning chores, so this afternoon will be devoted to some serious listening. So happy I've pulled the trigger. I waffled for such a long time. With Aegis and Folkvangr and my (soon-to-arrive) Mjolnir 3, I finally have a varied set of TOTL headphone amps which should work well with nearly anything I can throw at them. Now that I'm finally settled on the amp and DAC side of things, the next few years will be spent enhancing my ZMF collection. I eased into the ZMF universe with the Bokehs (still waiting on my Open), but I'm excited to eventually move to Atrium, Verité, and Caldera-land, or to whatever cool things Zach and his team come up with.
Again, fabulous work, ZMF. I'm completely enamored with both Bokeh and Aegis. @L0rdGwyn, so grateful you and Zach collaborated together to bring us this fantastic amp. It's an incredible design, and a godsend to those of us whose skill (or, rather, lack of skill--ha!) with a soldering iron prevented us attempting a DIY build of Aegis.
Now it's time to stop typing and start listening. Happy Sunday all!
What I find fascinating reading this thread (still only to about post 60 and a long way yet to go) is how well Aegis responds to tube rolling, particularly with the power tubes and rectifier. Even though you're essentially restricted to the 6SL7s on the input, it'll be interesting to hear what's possible there too. It's the exact opposite of my OTL/OCL Folkvangr where rolling the input tubes makes a significant difference, but the power tubes (restricted to 6N6Ps) don't. My thanks to those who have already reached out via PM to offer guidance (@mchuckp) and with help starting a small tube collection to eventually roll with (@ckhirnigs113), which I can't wait to do once things get settled in. You both rock!
It's rainy and gloomy here, and I've finished my morning chores, so this afternoon will be devoted to some serious listening. So happy I've pulled the trigger. I waffled for such a long time. With Aegis and Folkvangr and my (soon-to-arrive) Mjolnir 3, I finally have a varied set of TOTL headphone amps which should work well with nearly anything I can throw at them. Now that I'm finally settled on the amp and DAC side of things, the next few years will be spent enhancing my ZMF collection. I eased into the ZMF universe with the Bokehs (still waiting on my Open), but I'm excited to eventually move to Atrium, Verité, and Caldera-land, or to whatever cool things Zach and his team come up with.
Again, fabulous work, ZMF. I'm completely enamored with both Bokeh and Aegis. @L0rdGwyn, so grateful you and Zach collaborated together to bring us this fantastic amp. It's an incredible design, and a godsend to those of us whose skill (or, rather, lack of skill--ha!) with a soldering iron prevented us attempting a DIY build of Aegis.
Now it's time to stop typing and start listening. Happy Sunday all!
Rhodey
Previously known as RhodeyIII
Oh yeah, can’t believe I forgot about the RNHP. Great amp, especially with the Clear. I’ve thought about picking one up again just to have around.
Mass Kobo MK465
Yes, many times the cost of Aegis, but it's one of the rare ones that I could live with as pure SS amp after hearing it on a couple of occasions. You would really have to go to exotic SS to match the engagement factor of tubes
Congrats!! Aegis is awesome and enjoy the ride!
BTW, there are many tube types out there that's close enough to 6SL7 that you can play with, but almost an infinite amount of power tubes to also play as well as rectifier tubes
Currently rocking the
Input: RCA 5691
Output: TAD KT66
Rectifier: RCA 5R4GY DD
ZMF Bokeh Open
With the combo above, Bokeh Open with stock mesh and stock pads get a rumbling bass, smooth lower treble and highs and wide and open spherical staging
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@theveterans I have the TADs, and that RCA tube on its way. Hoping to score a pair of the 5691s this week. If I can get them for a reasonable price, I'll have the trio and will make sure to try them together, especially after my Boken Open arrives. Thanks!
Looking forward to your impressions!
Just the past 2 weeks, I've been tweaking my digital (recently got a streamer from my friend used to use and added networking tweaks) and power side (mostly grounding and power conditioning stuff) of my chain to increase the perceived articulation, dynamics and detail retrieval from the Hifiman Susvara and while the tweaks worked super well with Susvara and the current tubes I used for it (Full Music KT88/c and Full Music 6SL7), I find that the usual combo that I use for my Bokeh Open became a bit "forceful" and overly dynamic in the note edges (CBS Hytron 6SL7 Bottom Getter and RCA 5691) and thus out of balance. I'm now rolling once again on the input side to find that magic balance again and just literally found it minutes earlier
My point is that Aegis can adapt so easily to any changes to my system with just tube rolling! Now I'm getting the best sound out of my Bokeh Open and Susvara once again
New input tube: CBS Hytron 6SL7 Side Getter
The effect is a more full-bodied yet still retains the clarity and articulation without inducing the extra energy in the note edges that can be exasperated by Bokeh Open with my current upstream chain
The tube combo I use is strictly curated for Bokeh Open and my system overall, thus the same tube combo might be very lush and slow on other chains since I have maximized it for Susvara's sheer resolution and dynamic range
SunRa Fan
100+ Head-Fier
Another night with the TAD 6L6GC STR Blacks. Loving the soundstage with the Caldera Opens.
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Another night with the TAD 6L6GC STR Blacks. Loving the soundstage.
Oh yes! The 6L6GC are known to stage in very alluring way
Schuie Driver
100+ Head-Fier
Love the blue glow!
Another night with the TAD 6L6GC STR Blacks. Loving the soundstage.
DJ XtAzY
100+ Head-Fier
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Tube novice here. So I already have a pair of RCA 5691 and just ordered aBrimar 5R4GY OO Getters. I thought about swapping the last stock tubes with Mullard EL38 with adapters. For the EL38, do the different types getters make any difference? I see some being rebranded to Philips or GE, so wasn't sure if that'll make a difference as well.
Toonartist
Formerly known as dAndis67
If they have the Mullard date codes on the tube etc then rebranding will not make a difference.
Tubes before 1955 will have codes similar to 2E2 (2nd week in May 1952 I believe) with a tube identifier code of 1326 and tend to be trough getters with black getter flashing while ones after 1955 will have the revised tube identifier of HM1 followed by a date code similar to B9A (Jan 1959) or B7A1 (Jan 1967).
I don't think there's a massive difference but I thought the trough getters were slightly smoother... but it could be imagination or tube variation. I like both so I doubt you can go far wrong really. Just popped mine back in today... first time a while after 60VTa & 4654 Mesh plates hogged the limelight this year.
Trough getters below with the black getter flashing.
Tubes before 1955 will have codes similar to 2E2 (2nd week in May 1952 I believe) with a tube identifier code of 1326 and tend to be trough getters with black getter flashing while ones after 1955 will have the revised tube identifier of HM1 followed by a date code similar to B9A (Jan 1959) or B7A1 (Jan 1967).
I don't think there's a massive difference but I thought the trough getters were slightly smoother... but it could be imagination or tube variation. I like both so I doubt you can go far wrong really. Just popped mine back in today... first time a while after 60VTa & 4654 Mesh plates hogged the limelight this year.
Trough getters below with the black getter flashing.
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Deleeh
Headphoneus Supremus
Hello,
what you mentioned is true.
I have 3 tubes from EL38 2 with Hm1 code and one with the B code.
They really make a difference in sound when you mix the EL38s.
Although the construction is the same, I visually took the tube with Hm1 and B code together and thought they sounded funny, when I then swapped the tube with the B code for the Hm1 it was much better.
I then took a closer look at the tubes, one has a trough getter and the other an O getter.
I can't remember which EL38 tube with the code it was.
The fact is you should not buy a pair of EL38s with different codes.
Because they differ mainly in the getter due to their design.
It would be good if both tubes were structurally the same.
If you buy the HM1 you need 2 of them, the same with the B code.
I would have to look again to see which codes I had for the 3 I have, I may have mixed up the code, but I remember that I had real problems with the sound.
It could also be that the one that doesn't share the code is lazy.
Unfortunately I have no possibility to measure it.
what you mentioned is true.
I have 3 tubes from EL38 2 with Hm1 code and one with the B code.
They really make a difference in sound when you mix the EL38s.
Although the construction is the same, I visually took the tube with Hm1 and B code together and thought they sounded funny, when I then swapped the tube with the B code for the Hm1 it was much better.
I then took a closer look at the tubes, one has a trough getter and the other an O getter.
I can't remember which EL38 tube with the code it was.
The fact is you should not buy a pair of EL38s with different codes.
Because they differ mainly in the getter due to their design.
It would be good if both tubes were structurally the same.
If you buy the HM1 you need 2 of them, the same with the B code.
I would have to look again to see which codes I had for the 3 I have, I may have mixed up the code, but I remember that I had real problems with the sound.
It could also be that the one that doesn't share the code is lazy.
Unfortunately I have no possibility to measure it.
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