Your secrets to taking GREAT photos of your gear?
Mar 11, 2005 at 3:30 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 34

KenW

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This has been bugging me for awhile. Try as I may, I just can't get decent shots of my gear. Background, lighting, flash, no flash, shutter speed, etc...I just can't hit the sweet spot. I've seen some fantastic photos of not only gear but other subjects as well on this board so I gotta ask....how do you do it? What are some of the tricks/tips that I can try? My biggest problem is lighting and the use of the flash which brings glare and a washed out look to the photos. Another problem is taking shots of moving subjects at a sporting event.

Anyone care to become a teacher for a willing student?? Please!
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Mar 11, 2005 at 4:17 PM Post #3 of 34
Not that I'm an expert on this - but here are my tips (for equipment/still photos):

- Flash: I think you should avoid using flash as a primary light source at all costs (I'm talking about the cheap built-in flash unit). Horrible - overpowering, shadow-casting, glare inducing light. Every speck of dust or minor imperfection on the subject will literally glow. If you have expensive dedicated flashes or studio lighting with diffusors, relection panels, etc, then it can be great. Daylight with the sun is also too harsh by itself. You can experiment with a combination of daylight and flash, whereby the flash acts as a "filler" to partially fill in some of the hard shadows from the sunlight. Overcasts days give more diffuse lighting but you may still need fill flash. Indoor lighting is hard to get right without expensive equipment - I've used a couple torch lamps (tungsten) and it works OK (with tripod), but be careful about the color balance...

- Tripod: Without flash you will definately need a tripod or some sort of stabilization device. If possible, use your camera's self-timer mode so that pressing down the shutter button doesnt cause image shake (mine has a 2-second timer, which is perfect). With tripod you will have much more freedom on your range of shutter speeds and apertures - without it you can't really go below 1/60th of a sec shutter speed, but with it exposures of several seconds work great!

- Reciprocity: The relationship between shutter speed and aperture is called the law of reciprocity, and it may be beneficial to read up on it. Aperture controls depth of field, which is cool when you want to focus on a foreground subject and have the background soft and blurred.

- Color balance: Heh, this is something I need to work on. Light bulbs are tungsten and their light is yellowish and very warm. Flourescent light is green. Daylight is more bluish. Flash is like daylight. With traditional cameras you have to use different film types or use filters to compensate for the lighting type. If you're using a digital camera you will need to set the white balance to compensate for the lighting type. I need to read the damn manual of my cam and figure out how to set this. Mixing 2 types of light in the same photo is bad, very bad!

- Composition: The subject will often look poor when perfectly centered. There's a "rule of thirds" that subjects usually look better 1/3rd of the way from a side. Just a general guideline, though. Look at good equipment "glam" shots and see how they handle the composition.
 
Mar 11, 2005 at 4:48 PM Post #4 of 34
Mulveling...man, thanks for those tips. I'm a real beginner with this so I'm going to need lots of practice. I'll take some shots with my tripod and see how it goes. Any tips on background? I know a non reflective surface may be best but I've seen Turners marble counter top and it really looks good. Any easy to find and relatively inexpensive materials that would make a nice background for photographing gear?
 
Mar 11, 2005 at 4:52 PM Post #5 of 34
Here are some tips about photos:

1. Lighting: unless you have a ring flash (flash that surrounds your lense) you should forget your flash for shooting objects and use natural light instead. Maybe using a couple of reflectors could use lighting the subject evenly. For this i would recommend turning your flash to an umbrella and the umbrella facing the subject. If you manage to have an umbrella with silver inside part then you might get some good ones.

2. Makro lense: in the case you want the best results ever you should go for a makro lense. You might be able to get a very good deal in a good one now that everyone is getting in the one-camera-does-all frenzy. i got my nikkor 55mm 3.5 version for $70 from ebay and its supposed to be one of the sharpest makro lenses ever made in the nikkor lineup. Its was so cheap cause it can be used only on manual cameras (FM2-F3hp)

3. Tripod: use of a tripod always helps

4. Practice: if you have a digital camera then shoot shoot shoot. Its free and the worst thing that can happen to you is recharge your batteries.
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Hope this helps!Enjoy!
Dimitris
 
Mar 11, 2005 at 4:59 PM Post #6 of 34
Okay, I've made a couple of attempts. Suggestions on how I can improve? The first shot is my attempt as an uninformed newbie. The second is taking some of the tips I've received so far.

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Btw, any tips on fast moving subjects like ball players on the field in action??

Yeah, I should take a class but I need the readers digest version and I'm lazy or far to dedicated to listening to spare the time!
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Mar 11, 2005 at 5:02 PM Post #7 of 34
Quote:

Originally Posted by Dimitris
Here are some tips about photos:

1. Lighting: unless you have a ring flash (flash that surrounds your lense) you should forget your flash for shooting objects and use natural light instead. Maybe using a couple of reflectors could use lighting the subject evenly. For this i would recommend turning your flash to an umbrella and the umbrella facing the subject. If you manage to have an umbrella with silver inside part then you might get some good ones.

2. Makro lense: in the case you want the best results ever you should go for a makro lense. You might be able to get a very good deal in a good one now that everyone is getting in the one-camera-does-all frenzy. i got my nikkor 55mm 3.5 version for $70 from ebay and its supposed to be one of the sharpest makro lenses ever made in the nikkor lineup. Its was so cheap cause it can be used only on manual cameras (FM2-F3hp)

3. Tripod: use of a tripod always helps

4. Practice: if you have a digital camera then shoot shoot shoot. Its free and the worst thing that can happen to you is recharge your batteries.
biggrin.gif


Hope this helps!Enjoy!
Dimitris




Thanks. I got a Rebel for xmas and the two lenses were the canon efs 18-55mm and the 75-300mm. Any suggestions on a macro for my setup?
 
Mar 11, 2005 at 5:08 PM Post #8 of 34
There's a really good article on this over at Dan's Data:
http://www.dansdata.com/phototute.htm
page 1 is generalities and semi-theoretical stuff (Dan never gets really theoretical). If you want to skip to the practical stuff, skip to page 2. Page 3 is about image editing once you have the shot, and about the issue of dealing with shiny things.
 
Mar 11, 2005 at 6:12 PM Post #10 of 34
Quote:

Originally Posted by episiarch
There's a really good article on this over at Dan's Data:
http://www.dansdata.com/phototute.htm
page 1 is generalities and semi-theoretical stuff (Dan never gets really theoretical). If you want to skip to the practical stuff, skip to page 2. Page 3 is about image editing once you have the shot, and about the issue of dealing with shiny things.



Great find and thanks for posting this excellent article.
 
Mar 12, 2005 at 12:06 AM Post #12 of 34
Your photos are on the correct track! Lighting on the second picture is much better than on the first one. Thing is now you need to take care of white balance. If you notice your photo has a redish complexion. You need either to get some filters so that you correct that or if you are using a digital camera change the white balance settings. If you are interested in makro lenses then you need something like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...878885988&rd=1

the longer the lense the closer your closeups will be. However depth of field is also affected (smaller as you get to more telephoto lenses). I would suggest a lense around the 60-100mm area. If you want something cheaper you can go for lenses like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...880575127&rd=1


Dont waste your money on macro adapters on regular lenses neither on cheapo lenses or extension tubes that make regular lenses macros. These suck and after the macro hype is over you are stuck with something that you would like to throw in the river.
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Let us know what you think and we will jump in and help more! Photography is something i know much more than headphones!
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